686 pre/post lock questions

[savasyn]

I'm in the market for a 4" 686+. I have a pre-lock 2-1/2" and love it and want to add a 4"er as well.

I have only shot two post-lock Smiths, a range rental 686(6 shot) and my model 21(.44 Special). The range rental had a gritty and gross feel to the trigger, though I got the impression that it had never been cleaned. Ever. My 21 on the other hand, has a smooth but very heavy trigger pull. Not sure if this is due to it being a .44 or just a trait of the 21 or something to do with the lock.

Anyway, I have a nice collection of pre-lock Smiths that all have relatively light and smooth triggers. Based on this, I'm heavily leaning towards finding a used, pre-lock 686+, but I want to give the post lock a fair shake, so for those if you who have experience with both, please let me know if there is any mechanical reason why I shouldn't get a new one. While I'm not thrilled about the looks of the lock or MIM parts, I wouldn't let that stop me from getting one if all it took was swapping a couple of springs to get a smooth, light feel(assuming it doesn't come that way like the two examples I've listed above.)

Thanks!

[Miltiades]

Opinion

I have two prelock 686s that are among my favorites, and don't have any post lock S&W revolvers at all. I don't buy them for all the well known reasons previously mentioned here. There are plenty of prelocks still on the market, and I recommend looking for one of them. Let those who don't care buy the post locks.

Here are my two:

[luchador768]

I have a pre-lock model 13, and a post lock 629. The 13 has about 700 rounds down range and has a great trigger in DA and single action. The 629 is brand new with 75 rounds down range and has a pretty great trigger pull for a new gun. I can tell a difference, but I can't say for sure if it due to the lock or if it because the gun is new.
Peter

[coop44]

Sorry for the rant SAVASYN, but, trying to compare K,L and N frames is difficult having owned(own) all of them. But, if you think all it takes to make a trigger satisfactory is throwing springs and or parts at it,go ahead. I will keep doing trigger jobs the way I have for 25 years (cost, zero). Wolf and others have gotten rich and put countless good smiths out of business and I wouldn't give them the time of day.

That being said, I really like the looks of any prelock S&W, actually considered welding up the lock hole on one of the new models, but common sense stopped me. you are right, there are plenty of prelock models on the market.

I have seen smiths in the past come from the factory loaded with debris and metal filings. That may have been the case with the range gun you used.
I have seen a good teardown and cleaning/lube improve trigger pull by 20%. Buy some good screwdrivers and have at it, in fact, B-square still makes sockethead side plate screws(I think)

[tiko]

My post lock 686+ (4") has 3.5lb trigger out of the box, my friend told me he could improve it to 2.5lb but I think 3.5lb is optimum. About the lock, I never use and not even mention about its existence.

[savasyn]

Thanks for all the input everyone. Sounds like whatever I get will be just fine so I'll go with what is available at the time I am ready to fully commit to a purchase. If a pre-lock shows up at or around the right time, I'd surely take it over a lock model.

Coop, I actually don't know what it /takes/ to make a good trigger job. All but one of the pre-lock Smiths I have are factory triggers and are awesome. My M66 has Wolf springs from the previous owner and by far has the lightest pull while my post lock 21, while smooth, is extremely heavy(noticeably heavier than my 27 or 629.) Wouldn't lighter springs keep the smoothness while reducing pull weight? As I have already said, I don't know what goes into a trigger job, so I'd be having a quality smith do the work anyway.

[mbrown]

I have a post-lock 686 which I love. Haven't noticed the trigger pull as being much different than pre-lock S&W's, but don't have as much experience shooting them. I've never actually engaged the lock and pretty much don't plan to. I've fired probably 500 rounds through my 686 without any problems and also many dry-fire trigger pulls. Even with the lock, the 686 seems very reliable.

[bangkok]

I have a prelock 686+ 4" (and several other prelock Smitties) and my only post lock is a 620. The 620 has a really crisp trigger break, a decent DA pull and besides looking a bit different, the lock doesn't effect jack!

And Miltiades, love those grips! Where did you score them and what kind of wood?

[scoob_i_e]

I'm guessing the same applies to the S&W mod 500? (Parts quality not too great, trigger not great, and also has the lock?)

[Acorn556]

I had a post lock 4 inch 686 and I wish I had never sold it. Tried to get it back but it passed through a couple hands and it's pretty much lost. Really nice gun and I'll probably buy another one in the future.

[savasyn]

I'm guessing the same applies to the S&W mod 500? (Parts quality not too great, trigger not great, and also has the lock?)

??
It'll most likely have the lock as most of them do these days, but based on anecdotal evidence from this very thread, the trigger feel seem to run from heavy but smooth to great(I assume the gritty feel of the one I tried to be abuse and lack of maintainable.) MIM parts being good or bad seem to be a subjective thing as well. I have a number of guns with them and haven't had a problem. Some people have.

I think the bottom line is that if you buy a Smith, you are going to get a nice gun.

[bangkok]

I think the bottom line is that if you buy a Smith, you are going to get a nice gun.

There it is.