DIY Fire fighting System

[silaic7]

I agree, it will all depend on the water supply. I don't have a pool. But both my neighbors has pool, if they will let me use their water I will defend their property too or else I will just get my own water tank supply. There are premade kit that could cost a fortune but I'm thinking of something cheaper.

-Water pump
-- Honda Water Pump http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200585733_200585733

-- Harborfreight http://www.harborfreight.com/65-hp-2...gph-69774.html

-Suction Hose $50
-Discharge Hose, Single jacket http://www.firehosesupply.com/collec...-single-jacket
-Fire Nozzle http://www.firehosesupply.com/collections/spray-nozzles
- Adapters http://www.firehosesupply.com/collec...-hose-adapters

If I made it my self it will costs me around $500-$700
If I prefer the HF water pump It could lower the cost to $400 ;-)
If I buy the premade it will cost me around $1700

I'm hoping I will never use it. I can have it stored in my shed and test it twice a year. It will give me a sense of security that I have something to pull in case of real emergency. I think the real dangers of wildfire is more imminent than any other SHTF scenario.

[KevinB]

That Honda pump is not even close to being big enough to move enough water to save your house. You are going to need something that will run at least a 1 1/2 line with pressure.

Being able to run 2 hoses would be better.

look for a pump with 15 hp or better for the volume and pressure you need to run a fire hose and get distance with it. They make cart systems that carry the hose and supply lines. You can even get them with foam units.

People that own pools should have a pump unit for their homes if they are in a high fire danger area. You also need to maintain the unit, keeping it full of fresh fuel and make sure you can get to it in a instance. The wife and older children should know how to run it also.

My ranch is 30 minutes from a fire station, I am the first line of defense.

[ratled]

Actually Kevin that is not true. Honda motor with a a Honda Trash pump- say WX20 can be enough if applied properly. Back in Y2K my department bought over a 100 6.5 hp WX series to put on every piece of apparatus. The idea was a single FF and a pool could save a house with one and with over staffing we would have enough FF.

Having worked on a wildland engine the last 11 years of my 33 year career I have used these pumps numerous times and they can be very effective. They can run a 1.5" hose just fine or reply a rig quickly with a 2.5" hose. THE BIG ISSUE is rural areas with tanks, not standing water, often only have NPT on the tanks...... no matter what the code or the plumber says. We always carried adapters for both threads and be sure to not to wind up with Male/Male or female/Female and consider adapters for that. You need to be sure that your threads matches that. Also SOME departments, don't use NPT or often use odd ball thread size so be sure to check with your locals guys before.

If you are still concerned, the Keene pump ref above is a high pressure pump. It has a volute and is a centrifugal force pump unlike the the trash pumps that are direct pressure pumps...... paddles slap the water down the hose rather than throw it. The down side with CF pumps is they don't like grit and can wear down quickly, very quickly and this will affect the pressure. A trash pump is just that, it can take the beating and keep on pumping,....... a better pump for this objective in my opinion. No matter what screen your intake

ratled

[KevinB]

Actually Kevin that is not true. Honda motor with a a Honda Trash pump- say WX20 can be enough if applied properly. Back in Y2K my department bought over a 100 6.5 hp WX series to put on every piece of apparatus. The idea was a single FF and a pool could save a house with one and with over staffing we would have enough FF.

Having worked on a wildland engine the last 11 years of my 33 year career I have used these pumps numerous times and they can be very effective. They can run a 1.5" hose just fine or reply a rig quickly with a 2.5" hose. THE BIG ISSUE is rural areas with tanks, not standing water, often only have NPT on the tanks...... no matter what the code or the plumber says. We always carried adapters for both threads and be sure to not to wind up with Male/Male or female/Female and consider adapters for that. You need to be sure that your threads matches that. Also SOME departments, don't use NPT or often use odd ball thread size so be sure to check with your locals guys before.

If you are still concerned, the Keene pump ref above is a high pressure pump. It has a volute and is a centrifugal force pump unlike the the trash pumps that are direct pressure pumps...... paddles slap the water down the hose rather than throw it. The down side with CF pumps is they don't like grit and can wear down quickly, very quickly and this will affect the pressure. A trash pump is just that, it can take the beating and keep on pumping,....... a better pump for this objective in my opinion. No matter what screen your intake

ratled

Better to have more than you need than not enough. When it comes to protecting my home from fire, I don't want to be lacking in pressure and or volume. Most of the commercial systems are 15 hp or better. There is a reason for that.

[twinfin]

Better to have more than you need than not enough. When it comes to protecting my home from fire, I don't want to be lacking in pressure and or volume. Most of the commercial systems are 15 hp or better. There is a reason for that.

This is not unwise to have plenty of volume and pressure but one should not underestimate the capability of a small pump and a 1.5 inch fire hose. Unlike fighting a structure fire, wildland fire can be managed with lower volumes of water and smaller hose lines.

My 5 horse power Briggs & Stratton engine is mounted to a 75psi centrifugal pump. When connected to my water storage tank, that set up will put enough volume and pressure out of 100 and even 200 feet length of 1.5 inch fire hose. I would not want to attack a structure fire with it but for a wild land fire. It is quite enough to put out the fire in the trees and brush that surround my house. I had the opportunity to put it to the test one night and the system worked as expected on a fire that broke out in the brush and trees beside my home. If only armed with a garden hose, I would not have been able to knock down the volume of fire in the brush and trees.

Often times, wildland firefighters are confronted with limited water supplies so water conservation is an important part of attacking a wildland fire. As such, wildland firefighters gain experience in using enough water to get the job done but not wasting water you might need later to save your own life.

I mention this not to contradict anyone or say this way is better than that way but rather to point out, that a homeowner, with a modest set up like the one I own, can effectively defend his well prepared home.

Often times, in the opening scenes of a wildland fire, there are not enough fire engines in the area yet and this is where a rural homeowner may be confronted with a fire moving in on his home with no fire engines available to help. If one had already taken the time to clear a defensible space around his house, and had a modest pump, sufficient length of fire hose and the ability to connect to a pool or water storage tank, he could successfully knock down enough fire around the perimeter of his defensible space and save his home.

I remember watching one news segment where a homeowner was dipping a bucket into his pool and then rushing out to douse spot fires in the dry grass around his house. Since the power was out (a downed line started the blaze) he lost his domestic water pressure so his garden hose was useless. If he was prepared, he would have had a gas powered fire pump and hose and could have handily kept the flames away from his home.

Once a year, my wife and I pull out all the gear, add fuel, attach all the hose and start up the pump and squirt some water around. It's fun on a hot day and gives us a chance to see how much volume and pressure we get after dragging the house out to all ends of the house. Then, we drain, inspect and clean the hose then stretch it out to dry. The pump motor gets an oil change, remaining gas is drained from the tank and carburetor and then everything gets put away. I think if someone was serious about taking this on, they should commit to training with their equipment at least once a year to make sure everything is in working order.

Again, worth mentioning this is not for the faint of heart but if you are the type of person with a bit of common sense and good judgement about these kinds of issues, you'll know when to fight or when to run and make the right call.

[Squ1dward]

If you haven't read KevinB's write up on the Butte fire he had to deal with last year, you should. It is absolutely riveting. Glad you and the family are safe, bud

http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/showthread.php?t=1112939

[IRONWILL]

I did not read all these post above so if this is said already sorry , I'm a fire sprinkler fitter , I have often thought about houses in fire areas and how to protect them, I mainly do high rise systems, warehouse, extra hazard, server farms and so on , ive also done some residential & having grown up in Australia i've seen a few fires.

I think a large tank 20k to 80 k gallons this could be feed by a well the need to replish the water as your systems runs is not a must but would be best, gravity fed or a small fire pump made for fire protection, electric need solar and batteries or diesel giving you around 60 to 120 lbs of pressure at the valve, loss of about 5 to 10 lb once you rise back to your roof the deluge valve (normally close) steel or galvanized usa made sch 40 pipe
system and heads are open to atmosphere with remote sensor or activation like a pre action system
so the sprinkler system could be set off once the fire has passed , most homes burn due to no one being around to put out the small fires.

if its fire storm set of just before the fire hits

I would run the main (2'') on the ridge with system feeding branch lines down the pitch of the roof 1-1/2 to first head then 1-1/4 to the 2nd and 1'' to the third head set at light hazard pattern spacing on head at 15 x 15 you could go 2 heads off 1-1/2 if need be depending on the size of the roof the last head would be a side wall head creating a water curtain around your house

most of the time you are not going to be home or you may have been force to leave the house ie family may want to get out.

some may think this over kill but I think this would just be enough to save your house

and yes I would install a system inside the house

Cheers Will

[madland]

For all of you living in rural areas. Two words: Brush Clearance
And as KevinB also pointed out..defensive space. They are one in the same. Sorta. Fire wood piles next to any structure..bad idea. The list goes on and on of things to do to keep your house safe especially in rural areas. Look at the Bluecut Fire in the Cajon Pass recently. Lots of structures..out-buildings and homes lost. Some was unavoidable. But you increase your chances of survival if you are prepared. KevinB's story is living proof. My .02

[splithoof]

For all of you living in rural areas. Two words: Brush Clearance
And as KevinB also pointed out..defensive space. They are one in the same. Sorta. Fire wood piles next to any structure..bad idea. The list goes on and on of things to do to keep your house safe especially in rural areas. Look at the Bluecut Fire in the Cajon Pass recently. Lots of structures..out-buildings and homes lost. Some was unavoidable. But you increase your chances of survival if you are prepared. KevinB's story is living proof. My .02

Brush clearance...EXACTLY!!!
After 23+years with a large municipal agency that does a LOT of brush fires (and everything else), I am also a firm believer in using non-combustible building materials, good exterior hardscape, good access, and for dwellings with pool access a properly set up Hale Floto pump with adequate pre-positioned hose(s) with nozzles.