1911 'fitting' question

[gunfan74]

Hello, I was thinking about getting a new barrel and bushing for my 1911 full size. I saw that some will require fitting. I know I know, a gunsmith will be happy to fit it for me. But I'm more of a DIY person. Got any advice?

[bohoki]

if you get stainless you wont see your fitting modifications

[wash]

If you can measure things accurately, EGW sells custom fit angle bored bushings. That solves your issues at the front.

There are "drop in fit" barrels out there but lug engagement and hood fit are kind of critical. If you are patient enough to file your barrel hood and keep it flat (that's a little tricky but can be done), fitting your barrel is DIY-able but the precision of a mill is better. The lug fitting is usually done with files so that is certainly something you can DIY. The lower lugs that the slide stop rests on are fit with a special cutter that isn't very cheap.

The cost might be high if you are fitting only one barrel.

As for stainless steel, every part that needs fitting is kind of hidden, you won't lose any finish that you would notice if you use plain carbon steel or alloy steel.

[CIV Tactical]

There is quite a bit involved in fitting a barrel. If your not familiar with fitting for loose breech, unlocking and lock up I would have a gunsmith handle it. Sometimes fitting a new barrel link is necessary to when you install and fit a new barrel. Minimum lock up is .025" and you want less than .002" loose breach.

[gunfan74]

Wow. Thanks guys. I had no idea that there was so much involved. I do have precision instruments of my own at work, and have access to an old Bridgeport. But the mill has seen much better days, I'm somewhat hesitant to try something on it that is that critical due to the amout of chatter and slop in mill and not to mention my level of noob in gunsmithing. Might be better to leave this to the pros.

[wash]

Well, a sloppy mill probably isn't a problem because you would use the knee to set the depth of the cut and lock out the X axis, leaving all the backlash in the Y axis which doesn't matter unless you climb cut (don't do that).

The rest of it still is a lot of work.

[gunfan74]

Hmm, thanks for the advice. I should have mentioned that I'm also very new to using the mill too. My specialty is sheet metal, but I get to play with the mill occasionally...