Yet another parking question

[kcstott]

I just thought I'd mention that I have Parkerized parts more than once without blasting in between and they came out fine. When people build something like a Romy I think it is a waste of time to blast the parts that are already black. I have often just blasted the receiver and then put the barreled receiver in the solution and it came out fine.

My first Romy G was done just that way and the finish is fine.

[kcstott]

Dan
I was planing on heading the the gun show but got stuck going out of town for work. Really wanted to see what you had to offer and meet you. Oh well next time.

[magikbike]

I'm glad I found this thread. I saw the parkerizingkits guys stuff on ebay and was considering it... Definitely not going there! Too bad there is so much squabbling on this thread. It would have been a lot easier to read without it.

I think I'll have to try the Lauer stuff.

[Ryan in SD]

I appreciate the help from everyone, but we have a thread jacking in progress.

After 8 attempts I have 1 beautiful black part and the rest a dark grey. I seasoned the lauers and did everything properly, as far as I know. My plan is to break in the AK. What would be more cost effective, predip or black oxide? Mama is none to happy with the continuous purchases, ya know? When I get what I need I will reblast, (I bought some aluminum oxide media) and hopefully have a pure black AK when I am done.

Did you use manganese from lauers?

How well was it blasted?

How hot was it? When I use lauers I get that ***** bubbling before dipping (ie boiling!), it wastes some from all the steam going into the air but from what Ive seen, the hotter it is the blacker it gets. Im probably between 200-250 deg (guess)

Sorry to hear youre having such a hard time. My first few didnt come out perfect either until I really put a lot of attention into the sand blasting and degreaser. And making sure theres no cosmo or oil anywhere that can mix in while its in the tank. And also making sure the degreaser is gone (either evaporation or dry cotton clothes)

[Ryan in SD]

yeah, the bickering needs to go to PMs. Nobody is impressed about arguments over parkerizing metal...

I mean...unless your pee pees are huge, then maybe...

[Zamble]

I had blasted them quite well. I tried to keep the temp to 180ish. And I ended up buying the Lauers Manganese. But my finish product, was a dark grey, not black. I guess, for the reading above, I should try black oxide to make it black. Can I apply it after Parking?

[Ryan in SD]

I had blasted them quite well. I tried to keep the temp to 180ish. And I ended up buying the Lauers Manganese. But my finish product, was a dark grey, not black. I guess, for the reading above, I should try black oxide to make it black. Can I apply it after Parking?

Honestly, I think you need to go a little hotter and make sure the whole tank is higher than 180, not just the area near the burner.

I dont know how black oxide is applied.

Are you able to get a refund from the other company that had the wish wash crap?

[ott1]

I've known people who bake parts with moly dry film lube after park.

[Alex$]

I agree with Ryan, temp should be between 185 - 190. Another thread about a CZ got me to pull out one from my safe recently, I phosphated it week end before last.

Blast, degrease in boiling water, straight into park tank, 25 minutes later rinse in hot water, wd-40 and then protect it. I happened to have paste Frog's lube sitting on the bench and applied that in a heavy coat. Put all parts in a ziploc bag, bake in the sun for a few hours, re-apply lube and rebake. Done.

[Zamble]

I tried to contact the company for a refund and they would not answer my emails. So I called my bank and had to do a charge back. The bank wanted me to return any unused product, which is fine by me, it did not work. So I sent another email to them, asking where to send the remaining products, and yet again they never responded.

[homemade]

if you want to drive to madera to our shop we park all the time.
first off i think bead blasting is 90% of the job
we rinse with alcochol risnse with water then into the tank solution at 190 move part around in tank until it no longer bubbles pull out blow off water then dunk in oil tank.

when the solusion gets old it will lighten up some and as you replace water in the tank you have to make up with solution also.

this works the best for us and we do hundreds of parts a month.
using the brownels solution.