1911 front strap checkering question....

[bigkahuna04]

For those brave souls who have done their own checkering of the front strap of a 1911 frame....

1) what type of checkering guides did you use? (if you used one)
2) where did you get your checkering files/supplies?
3) source of any tutorials?
4) would you do it again?

anyone out there that has a checkering guide they would like to rent or sell?

I'm considering trying it myself on a RIA1911.

thanks in advance.....

[bartt]

I haven't actually done the checkering yet, but here is one guide that might be helpful

http://www.blindhogg.com/gunsmith/checkering.html

I think that brownells has a guide/kit that will help.

[ojisan]

1) I checkered the front strap of my gunsmith Para frame. No aligment jigs were available, so I used a 90degree machinists block clamped to the frame to set the initial guiding lines. Not all frames are straight or flat, so even if you use a store bought jig, double check to make sure everything is perfectly straight before starting in with the file.

2) Brownell's sells the checkering files. I used a single 30lpi file for my Para front strap, backed up by a set of jeweler's files that I already had. It is suggested that the one side only of the checkering file be used all the way through on the area that is being done to avoid any possible differences in the file's teeth pattern.

3) I am sure tutorials are out there on youtube. If you want to drop by for a "hands-on" tutorial, PM me.

4) Yes, I would do it again on a deserving gun.

Do practice a little first on a piece of water pipe or whatever to get a feel for things.
I checkerd the front strap on my aluminum framed Buckmark as my first gun.
This came out very nice, it took about 4-5 hours.
The steel framed Para was not so easy, it took 4-5 days including undercutting, reshaping and checkering the trigger guard face, too.

Other considerations are what LPI you want...for example, the thin front strap of the Para frame needs to be 30LPI, because 20LPI would cut through the front strap.
20LPI is rougher and easier to do and OK for 1911 standard frames.
40 / 50 LPI is for sights and slides, they are too fine for grip use.

[bigkahuna04]

I'm trying to decide between the 20lpi, 25lpi, or 30lpi.

I usually have about 2 hours at night for my "free time"..after the family goes to bed. That is probably the most consistent time that I have for myself..I know it may not be the most optimum time, since I'm a little tired from the day, but at least it's the most uninterrupted time that I have.

[sa champion]

I did that on all my three 1911s.

[bigkahuna04]

that looks great... did you use a chekering guide? and what type?

[tzahoy]

I bought a Brownells fixture that had been used once. I've done two of my 1911s with it, an Officer's model and a Gold Cup. I had to modify the fixture to do the Officer's model due to the closer grip screw spacing. Both came out cherry. The first one I did probably took a total of ten hours. Laying down the first lines is absolutely critical, if you screw up here there's no fixing it. The second one I did probably tok a total of six hours. I look at what gunsmiths charge to hand checker a frame and it's too cheap.

[bigkahuna04]

OK... I've posted in the WTB section..but just in case for people who read this section.. I am looking to buy a jig for the front strap checkering of my RIA 1911 MS.