Parkerizing ??

[Sailormilan2]

You don't "need" to plug the barrel to keep the park out. The barrel is polished so much that the park won't take. The chamber will park, but the rifling won't. If a bit of park starts in the barrel, just take a bronze bore brush and scrub the bore with some oil and it will clean the park out.

[Roccobro]

If the bore is chrome lined, there is no issue. If it is not CL'd, you can plug it up with silicone plugs or simple foam ear plugs.

Justin

[ChuckD]

Ryan, I like the mud pan idea. How did you seal it?

[johndbush]

Park tanks cheap, should be a double boiler for best results

If you live in even a medium sized town there are used restaurant supply stores that sell "steam table" pans, all of which are stainless and you find ones in the size you need that will nest in next larger size. This allows you to have a double boiler so water heats the park solution NOT the actual burner. The solution can be burnt and then you get all kinds of little white floating things to worry about. Yes, I know nothing big enough for a full size barreled receiver but you can do long items by the old half at a time method. Good concentrate can be mixed with good water, not tap, and used over and over again. Those that have no bead blasting booth and use acid dip to clean will notice their park is darker than none dipped. Also be ware that area on guns that are harder will also park darker, like on a good GI 45 slide the slide stop notch can turn out darker, same with rear of Garand receiver which is also harder than the rest of the receiver. Good concentrate is diluted about 4-6 ozs to a gallon of water. Most runs best at 180 degrees and actually starts working around 160.

[Ryan in SD]

Ryan, I like the mud pan idea. How did you seal it?

Probably you. I don't remember it was a while ago.

-edit

Oh woops, I thought you said, how did you steal it. LOL

To answer your question, Duct tape only because I had nothing else on hand. I would use some rubber cawking or whatever its called. Some sort of edge sealant.

[Roccobro]

If you live in even a medium sized town there are used restaurant supply stores that sell "steam table" pans, all of which are stainless and you find ones in the size you need that will nest in next larger size. This allows you to have a double boiler so water heats the park solution NOT the actual burner. The solution can be burnt and then you get all kinds of little white floating things to worry about. Yes, I know nothing big enough for a full size barreled receiver but you can do long items by the old half at a time method. Good concentrate can be mixed with good water, not tap, and used over and over again. Those that have no bead blasting booth and use acid dip to clean will notice their park is darker than none dipped. Also be ware that area on guns that are harder will also park darker, like on a good GI 45 slide the slide stop notch can turn out darker, same with rear of Garand receiver which is also harder than the rest of the receiver. Good concentrate is diluted about 4-6 ozs to a gallon of water. Most runs best at 180 degrees and actually starts working around 160.

Good info. But I've found even the cheap SS chafing pans at the restraunt supply store are just a bit less than going to a full sized stripping pan (which will fit a barrel receiver).

Justin

[WTSGDYBBR]

In a few weeks I'm going to give these guys a try not a bad deal and look nice.

http://stainlesssteelcreations.net/parkerizing-products.html

[Roccobro]

Those guys are the top recommended tanks on AK Files. You wont be dissapointed even if you have to wait weeks to get it.

Justin

[ChuckD]

Ryan, even better idea - just steal one.

I have some stainless steel sheeting (was excess after installing on walls in a bathroom), going to try to fashion & weld a custom tank from that. Will post pictures if successful.