Essential AR Tools

[NorCalRifleman]

For someone who wants to do everything short of machining and finishing, what are the essential tools they would need? Punch set? Barrel wrench? Not only what, but who makes the best or best value? I want to pick up some tools, but there are so many, it's hard to know what you really need, let alone what's junk.

[nicoroshi]

If you're mounting a barrel to the upper receiver you'll need a torque wrench along with that AR tool. Upper, and lower receiver vice blocks are nice also.


I used a set of brass, and steel punches for the roll pins (and other stuff).
You might like to watch this>>>
Building an AR-15 lower
And these>>>
Brownells guides to building an AR-15

Note: some of the tools can be improvised with much cheaper options.
i.e. I used a spent case in my bench vice to compress the ejector in place when I set the roll pin for it.

[wash]

To assemble a lower, minimal tools:

T25 (I think) security torx bit. I use that to hold the bolt hold open roll pin when starting it in the hole.

Two chinese screwdriver handles with rubberized grip. I use one to hold the bit and the other as the hammer. They are about the right weight, with the rubberized grip it a ~dead blow and unlikely to scratch anything.

A larger hex bit. I use that to drive the roll pins after they are started.

I use another bit for starting the trigger guard roll pin but I forget what it is.

---optional---A pair of pliers to give the roll pins a slight crimp at one end for easier starting.

If your lower will have a telescoping stock, you need a castle nut wrench or a multi-purpose AR15 Armorer's wrench.

---optional---A center punch for staking the receiver end plate against the castle nut.

To barrel an upper:

A multi-purpose AR15 Armorer's wrench or the appropriate free float barrel nut wrench.

Either an upper receiver block, an upper receiver clamp (DPMS Panther Claw, PRI or YHM picatinny vise jaws) or possibly a Brownells barrel extension torque tool (I'm trying it out).

My preference leans toward the PRI because it's aluminum and has a picatinny rail clamp also but I'm going to modify it.

There are other tools for gas blocks and their pins, staking carrier keys, etc. You might need those if you really get down to the parts but clamp on or set screw gas blocks and pre-staked carrier keys can eliminate the need.

[rabagley]

To assemble a lower, minimal tools:

T25 (I think) security torx bit. I use that to hold the bolt hold open roll pin when starting it in the hole.

Two chinese screwdriver handles with rubberized grip. I use one to hold the bit and the other as the hammer. They are about the right weight, with the rubberized grip it a ~dead blow and unlikely to scratch anything.

A larger hex bit. I use that to drive the roll pins after they are started.

I use another bit for starting the trigger guard roll pin but I forget what it is.

---optional---A pair of pliers to give the roll pins a slight crimp at one end for easier starting.

You can replace all of these with a set of punches and a (small) set of roll-pin punches. Punches are generally necessary to gunsmithing. Like good screwdrivers, you won't get far without them.

brass punches

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=147183

roll-pin punches

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=694883

[wash]

Sure, but I've only got about $5.00 in my setup...

[rabagley]

Sure, but I've only got about $5.00 in my setup...

Not with the wrenches and blocks you describe.

BTW, I'm not objecting to your tools or your technique, but I think the OP will have better results if he spends a little more money and gets tools that are purpose built for the job.

[wash]

You only quoted the tools for building up a lower.

The first lower I made I had to choose the best tools that I already had.

That stuff worked fine.

I later bought an AR15 armorer's wrench for about $20.

The PRI block is about $50 and the torque tool was about $26 I think. I'll probably sell the Panther Claw after I'm done with my current project. Which is the reason why I bought that stuff, I'm putting together an upper and I need to hold it in a milling machine to enlarge the ejection port. If it was a $75 upper instead of a $350 side charger, I would have just dremmeled it and skipped the PRI block. I could have even gotten super ghetto, skipped the torque tool and found some other way to hold the receiver for the barreling job.

I spent some money getting the tools for my upper but the lower it's going on is still going to be assembled with that $5.00 tool set. It gets the job done just as good as anything else, no scratches, no problems.

I'm as good at wasting money as anyone but I don't see a reason for it here.

[nicoroshi]

Meh.

I can improvise with the best of them when it comes to tools BUT when the price difference between improvising, and the correct tool for the job is $7 (give or take) I have to question if it's worth it to NOT use the correct tool for the job.

Roll pin punch set

BTW If $7 is wasting money I need to stop drinking coffee at Starbucks (statement to put the price difference into prospective).

[97F1504RAD]

Here is a nice little starter kit.

http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/showthread.php?t=300887

[wash]

As good as those roll pin punch sets are, they aren't as good at starting the bolt hold open roll pin as my security torx bit...

Maybe your deffinition of essential is different but to me it's "what I absolutely need to get the job done right".

If you want to talk about what's nice, get this:

Front takedown pin detent tool (I can use my fingernail without launching anything but whatever).

A roll pin starter punch (hollow tip, not the little ball tip) that's long enough to clear the rear of the receiver when starting the BHO roll pin.

One of the ball tip roll pin punches that's long enough to clear the rear of the receiver when driving the BHO roll pin all the way in.

A roll pin punch with one side flattened for removing the BHO roll pin from the front.

A custom machinist's block for installing the trigger guard roll pin.

A hollow tip roll pin starter punch for the trigger guard roll pin.

A roll pin punch for the trigger guard roll pin.

A mag well vise block.

A set of gunsmith's dead blow hammers in weights from 4 oz to 8 oz.

That shopping list isn't cheap. Some of the tools are things I've never seen for sale which means I would have to make them or improvise.

Since I'm not a tool maker, I improvise and while I'm improvising, I might as well save the money since the end result is 100% the same.

The other benefit of my aproach is that around here security torx bits are a lot easier to find than roll pin punches so there is essentially no waiting to get started assembling your lower, you might have to wait for Brownells if you insist on using the "right" tools.

[HolyPeanuts]

You can replace all of these with a set of punches and a (small) set of roll-pin punches. Punches are generally necessary to gunsmithing. Like good screwdrivers, you won't get far without them.

brass punches

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=147183

roll-pin punches

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct...tnumber=694883

also note that ROLL-PIN PUNCHES AND BRASS PUNCHES ARE NOT THE SAME THING!

I've seem so many people break roll-pin punches because they use them on non-roll pins when they should be using standard punches.

[bombadillo]

Don't forget the BFH

[adamsreeftank]

Brownells for the gun stuff and Harbor Freight for the torque wrench and a large vise if you don't have one already.

Basic tools have been covered, but other things you will need, good gun oil, anti-seize grease for the barrel nut, locktight, etc.

This book is a good resource:

[Roccobro]

Hmm... Been tinkering for years and never know the value of roll pin punches till this thread. On my wish list at MidwayUSA now!

Justin