Table Top Milling Machine ? ?

[Excitable Boy]

Any time you put a piece of metal on the table and then start cutting, it's important to know where the tool is relative to the work. If you're just making the first cuts in a rough piece, it's not critical to be accurate. But if you've already started on the work and it's important that new cuts be accurate relative to the existing cuts (very common), you need to take time. This takes several minutes if you're new and still slows you down if you're an expert.

With a dovetail column mill, you don't have to repeat this process after raising or lowering the head. With a round column mill, you do. Also, the rigidity of round column mills is a LOT lower than dovetail column or knee mills (knee mill: the table moves up and down, not the head).

rabagley is absolutely correct on all points here. Before the two mills I mentioned above, I had a Rutland Tool round column mill drill. It was useful, but limited and a PIA to work on.

[Joewy]

This is the only multi tool I would even consider. Any serious knob twisting requires a dedicated task specific machine. Lathe, Milling machine, etc.

http://www.shoptask.com/bridgemill_head.shtml

You need better equipment.
I have a Mazak Intregrex 400Y It has 7 axis and is similar to this video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AV6m5_DZ-tk

I also use it to make cranks, cams and other parts that need multi axis.

[rabagley]

You need better equipment.
I have a Mazak Intregrex 400Y It has 7 axis and is similar to this video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AV6m5_DZ-tk

I also use it to make cranks, cams and other parts that need multi axis.

Not all of us have that kind of budget or space. I'm going to be spending $1800 on my mill (before tooling) and my whole workshop (including reloading bench and parking for two motorcycles) has to fit in a one car garage.

[rabagley]

Re-zeroing is a pain in the butt.
You would be MUCH better to try to never have to re-zero.
Avoid raising and lowering the head on the post and you are fine with a round column machine.

And the question becomes: can he do all of his work for his project(s) within the Z movement of the spindle so that he doesn't have to raise or lower the head?

For an 80% lower, sure. For lots of other projects: what a pain.

[hylander]

I found this local, new for $350 with a few collets a Vise and an
air upgrade "what ever that is"

http://www.harborfreight.com/two-speed-variable-bench-mill-drill-machine-44991.html

[38super]

Light duty machine, light cuts, more time. You'll find the lead screw nut tolerances at the worst possible moment.

[ar15barrels]

Not all of us have that kind of budget or space. I'm going to be spending $1800 on my mill (before tooling) and my whole workshop (including reloading bench and parking for two motorcycles) has to fit in a one car garage.

Get rid of one of the motorcycles and do this:



I used to park a motorcycle down the middle, but I got sick of rolling it in and out each time I wanted to do something quick in the shop...

[hylander]

You'll find the lead screw nut tolerances at the worst possible moment.

Whats that ?

[ar15barrels]

Whats that ?

Each axes of the table (x & y) has a long screw that moves the table when you turn the crank.
The crank has a set of numbers on it that show you how much movement to expect.
On these smaller/lighter/cheaper machines, the numbers are more like estimates than reality.
So, say you need to crank over 4" from one hole to the next hole.
Let's say that each rotation of the hand crank is supposed to give you 0.1".
So, you crank over 40 turns and expect to be 4.000" away from the original location.
What you will find is that you are perhaps NOT exactly 4.000" over as you expect, but you are 3.994" over.
That 0.006" is the due to leadscrew tolerances.

Then you have slack in your leadscrew nut so you can only use the numbers on the handwheel going in one direction.
You will find that the handwheel will rotate perhaps 20 degrees or more before the table moves when you change directions.
This will quickly teach you that you have to aproach all critical locations from the same direction in order to even TRY to use the numbers on the handwheel.

A DRO helps with all this and I highly recommend you get a machine with a DRO on it.

[hylander]

Thanks AR15
Can't afford a DRO machine, Have to stay under $900 for a unit.
So with my price cap of $900 whats the best I can get

[hylander]

Just laid my hands on a used Grizzly G8689 mini-mill with collet, several mill bits, vise, and rotary table for $300. I haunted Craigslist for a month looking for this. The Y ways need to be tightened up but everything else looks ready to go... just dirty.

Now that I've seen one, I'd agree with those who say it's a little small. However, it's about as big as one man can move unassisted (not that my back agrees with this statement), which makes it right for me.

I'll be making chips... in two weeks

Thanks

[Grumpyoldretiredcop]

So will that unit finish an 80% Lower ?

It's going to finish a couple, as soon as I clean it up (it sat in the former owner's garage for several years, unused and uncared for). And after I get it mounted to a proper bench/stand.

[ar15barrels]

So with my price cap of $900 whats the best I can get that will
do 80% Lowers ?

In skilled hands, any of these machines can finish out an 80% lower.
Without skilled hands, any of these machines will scrap a lot of parts while you are learning.
If you are only concerned about finishing out an 80% lower, buy a bunch of them so you can scrap a few until you get a usable one.
Otherwise, get a machine and practice making parts from simple bar stock until you have the fundementals down to do your 80% lowers.

[saki302]

I bought one of the HF mini mills (like the grizzly) quite a few years back when they were on sale for $399.

So far, it's done 4 or 5 1919 sideplates (lost count- most were with friends), one set of 1919 internals, countless motorcycle projects, etc..

It works perfectly fine if you work within its limits- cut slowly with lube, and don't overwork the machine. It does chatter more than a big mill, but that's the price of lighter weight/cost.

I got running for under $500 with tooling- it takes standard heads (R8?) and I bought a drill chuck attachment which comes in handy sometimes. The small vise I got for around $50-60, it's served me fine. I got two small nicer ones at auction for $20, but haven;t bothered re-fitting one yet.

My tips- buy a spare gear set- you'll need it one day, when not having one will SUCK.

They sell a DRO conversion too- I got mine cheap on ebay years later, and it turns it into a precision tool. Skip the power feed- the power feed is pretty weak, and if you tighten the slop out of the table, it has a hard time travelling the full distance WITH CONTROL.

-Dave

[hylander]

So what do you all think about these ?
Kinda leaning toward the GO704

http://www.grizzly.com/products/Mill-Drill/G0463

http://www.grizzly.com/products/Drill-Mill-with-Stand/G0704

http://www.grizzly.com/products/Mill-Drill-Milling-Machine-25/G1005Z

http://www.toolsplus1.com/rf31milldrill.htm

http://www.wttool.com/product-exec/product_id/46553/nm/R8_Mill_Drill_Machine_WT_