Help with rust removal

[dvsdev]

I stopped working on my project a year ago partially because of the rust on the trigger. I am now trying to get the rust off to finish the project, but had no success.

I have tried WD40 and a dremel with stainless steel brush at low speed, rubbing it with a rag and WD40, scrubbing it with a bronze brush and WD40. No idea what the gunk in picture 3 is!

This is what it looks like:

Can anyone guess what gun this trigger group belongs to from just the pictures?

[Jpach]

You know what, I cant guaruntee that this will help you but it sure helped me with rust issues. I shoot pellet guns alot and somehow water got into a metal pellet can that i had outside and after letting it sit there for a loooong time, there was a crap load of rust inside the pellet can and the rust somehow fused to the lead pellets.

I let them sit in WD-40 for a long time with no results, and even in stainless steel cleaner. One day I got this CLR stuff http://www.shopclr.com/CLR-Cleaners-...FRgbawodI31clQ
and I put the pellets along with CLR in an empty supplement can and I think within a day or so the pellets were SPOTLESS. Completely rust free. Give that stuff a go, its seriously magic. And the rust was very very thick on the pellets btw, much more than the rust on your gun.

[crin63]

May sound silly but try some ketchup as well. The acid in it attacks rust pretty well. I had a chain that was rusted solid. I bent it and crumbled off as much rust as possible and then used ketchup on it. It looked new when I was done.

[dvsdev]

Will the CLR dissolve the plastic trigger housing?

[rg_1111@yahoo.com]

Navy Gel will take it off.

[Swatguy10_15]

Youre gonna have to attack that with a stainless brush. The finish is already marred where the corrosion is so it wont hurt any more than what damage is existing. Try burshing it off with the steel, then maybe look into refinishing/plating or just do it yourself CPC...

[dvsdev]

I talked to another member about naval jelly in person, but completely forgot about it. I have tried the stainless brush with dremel on low speed after spraying it with WD40. Nothing seemed to be coming off.

Naval jelly seems to be a good idea since I can apply a coat, whereas CLR needs to be soaked and it might dissolve the plastic.

[popeye4]

WD40 is a water displacement oil. It won't remove rust. Kroil might be something worth trying. It can get into and under the rust, might soften it up a bit.

You might have to take the gun apart and work directly on the part.

[RaymondMillbrae]

DvsDev,

you need to get a medium-fine Dremel polishing wheel (180 grit), and have at it.

The oxidation has already pitted the metal surface, so you will need to go lower than the pits to smooth everything out.

Get a nice set of Dremel polishing wheels, and be amazed at what those puppies can do.

Wire brushes just "brush off" the oxidation, and scratch the metal. You need to fine-grind away those pits to restore it back to "purdy" condition.

In Christ: Raymond

[paul0660]

Naval Jelly will get it off, but also dull the rest of the trigger so it will have to be repolished.

[0321jarhead]

I do alot of restoring of all kins of guns almost daily. The stuff I used in the past is some of what is being descibe. It works. The stuff I use these days is non-toxic, bio-friendly and reusable. It is call "Evaporust." It is sold by the gallon. Expensive, $20-$25. It works really GREAT!! www.evaporust.com.

[cush]

I do alot of restoring of all kins of guns almost daily. The stuff I used in the past is some of what is being descibe. It works. The stuff I use these days is non-toxic, bio-friendly and reusable. It is call "Evaporust." It is sold by the gallon. Expensive, $20-$25. It works really GREAT!! www.evaporust.com.

Second reccomendation for evaporust.
I picked up a cheap gun for parts that was pretty rusted. One soak completely converted all the rust.
Also took off all the blueing. Supposedly if you watch it carefully you can pull the part after the rust is converted but before the blueing goes.
Learned about it from Ade (as in Ade's Gun Shop) he liked it so much he became a dealer.
I believe Ade's usually has it in stock and to support our gun stores my first choice is to buy it from Ade's.
Besides it's a "good" reason to go browse the consignments.
Now if you are not in O.C. then I have also seen it at Harbor Freight on ocassion at about the same price as Ade's.
Note that it converts the rust and stops further rust but you still need to polish down any rough surfaces.
-cush

[ZRX61]

I do alot of restoring of all kins of guns almost daily. The stuff I used in the past is some of what is being descibe. It works. The stuff I use these days is non-toxic, bio-friendly and reusable. It is call "Evaporust." It is sold by the gallon. Expensive, $20-$25. It works really GREAT!! www.evaporust.com.

Good stuff, & conveniently sold at Horrible Fright

Soaking in vinegar also works wonders... & then there is that whole electrolysis method.


Also: http://www.rusteco.com/

Works great on firearms. Used it many years ago while restoring a bunch of serious stuff for the AF Museum at Wright-Patt. Doesn't harm anything except rust, doesn't even remove the paint & is safe on wooden parts such as the handles on M2's etc.

[freonr22]

any thoughts on semichrome?

[dvsdev]

Evaporust seems to do the same thing as Naval Jelly. They both take it down to the bare metal?