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  • #16
    kcstott
    I need a LIFE!!
    • Nov 2011
    • 11796

    Originally posted by Dnele928
    Plus, after welding, heat treating is needed.
    Not on a 22 lr it's not

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    • #17
      kcstott
      I need a LIFE!!
      • Nov 2011
      • 11796

      Originally posted by ar15barrels
      While welding cages into demo derby cars, I would run a mig gun or a stick welder blind by just listening to the weld when I could not see it because I was up against the firewall or dash.
      The welds all came out great.
      More than one way to get the job done.

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      • #18
        dwalker
        Veteran Member
        • Jul 2014
        • 2714

        Originally posted by MrOrange
        - There are more than a few stainless rods for successfully stick welding common stainless alloys, it's at work in the industry and not something I thought up. I do plan to both pre-heat and post-heat. [Just a statement for full disclosure, I can probably stick weld better than a lot of hobbyists can TIG. I've SMAWed corroded sheet metal.]

        - As a former welder/fabricator, I am fully aware that there is a carbon steel commonly referred to as 1040 steel. This is a stainless steel gun.

        - Ruger specifically stated: "The stainless steel is made of 10-40 series."



        Anywho, after much consideration, I'm thinking that the odds this metal is anything outside of the 410 - 430 area is pretty slim. There are rods that will work on anything in that range and beyond, and indeed will work even if the replacement section isn't the same as the receiver metal. Apparently I didn't bookmark where I found the stainless welding info, so I'll have to ferret that out again. Now I'm to the point that I'm obsessed with welding this thing back together, but even if it somehow turns to snit, I can still go the conventional route just having wasted some time and a couple bucks.

        The way things are looking now, it'll be a few months before I can get to this project (most likely out of state), but I'll post a new thread on the build (re-build?) with pics and all that.

        The more I look at the mechanics of the pistol, I'm convinced I could duct tape the receiver sections in place and have it function. Maybe add a strand of tie wire just for that extra NASA-level redundancy. It's awful tempting...

        I dunno, I TIG pretty decently for a hobbyist..




        I would TIG that, or if you want, you can borrow my TIG machine for the weekend (add your own gas) and do it yourself.
        Fear is the spare change that will keep you broke

        Call him run-like-hell-when-shtf-guy or dial-911-guy but NEVER call an unarmed man "Security".

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        • #19
          Nelson_2016
          Member
          • Nov 2016
          • 159

          If you have a milling machine, it's possible to make your own Ruger Mark X receiver. I've made them out of 3/4" heavy wall aluminum 6061 alloy pipe.

          There was a guy selling blank tubes on ebay for $25 or so which IIRC were already turned down to 1.0" OD, bored to 0.75" ID and threaded for the barrel.

          Basically you just have to drill two holes, mill the flats on the bottom of the tube, cut a small notch for the ejector locating tab, and mill out a small area for the slide release lever (or whatever it's called).

          Comment

          • #20
            MrOrange
            Senior Member
            • Aug 2006
            • 2262

            Originally posted by dwalker
            I dunno, I TIG pretty decently for a hobbyist..
            Hey, c'mon, you're not in the "a lot of" category! You're one of us. You're not like the others.

            Sincerely appreciate the offer, but I'm real conservative with the rules, and in the "Your hands, your tools, your premises" camp of self-made firearms law.


            Originally posted by Nelson_2016
            If you have a milling machine, it's possible to make your own Ruger Mark X receiver. I've made them out of 3/4" heavy wall aluminum 6061 alloy pipe.

            There was a guy selling blank tubes on ebay for $25 or so which IIRC were already turned down to 1.0" OD, bored to 0.75" ID and threaded for the barrel.

            Basically you just have to drill two holes, mill the flats on the bottom of the tube, cut a small notch for the ejector locating tab, and mill out a small area for the slide release lever (or whatever it's called).
            That was the conventional route I alluded to, although I don't have a mill, I'm in an apartment. I've done projects with a vise and drill press c-clamped to the dinette table, with an expedient sound-reduction booth made with sleeping bags and blankets. I actually kinda enjoy the primitive challenge. If it weren't for the barrel mounting, I'd be tempted to make a MKx receiver with a hand-held drill and files. Although, with a pre-threaded receiver...

            The carports here actually more resemble garages sans doors, if I had to I was planning on getting the welding gear out of storage and running it in the back of the carport late at night. Technically against the rules, but so is any kind of vehicle work, and people here have been doing brake jobs, replacing CV shafts, etc. in the middle of the day, in open parking, during the work week.

            I can't be the only member of the flandom who saw the 7G pipe on Serenity and thought: "That must be 6G position, but in outer space."



            Never welded by sound, but I've had to do the trick where you bend the last couple inches of the rod to get around corners. I think the worst set-up I had to deal with was a simple horizontal groove, but with 2" OD pipes on 4" centers running vertically about 2" off the bulkhead. I imagine a few engineers felt their ears burning.
            I meant, it is my opinion that...






            I do believe that where there is a choice only between cowardice and violence
            I would advise violence. - M. Gandhi
            You're my kind of stupid. - M. Reynolds

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