1911 builders 2011 frames

[Limited-Ten]

I didn't mean that I didn't recognize that spec. I was just surprised that it was that spec.

Limited 10 can confirm, but I believe their decks are on a short side. And I figured that maybe all 2011 frames were on a shorter side. Hense my question about shimming.

So when I saw .450" I was surprised.

Frames from STI, PT, and CK all measure .445 or slightly under. At least the hundreds I've looked at. We have variances with many premier race gun builders and none of them want it to change either, I've asked. A huge difference with us is, we do know the in and outs of the frame. One thing I can say for certain, is you are not buying a "guess" at what these frames are supposed to look like or a frame made from a poor quality rendering available on the Internet.

Those prints above are not genuine. I've looked them over in the past and there are lots of errors (gaps between mating parts, missing features, grip holes in the wrong spot, grip mates at a tilted angle...) - what's worse is I know of at least two companies using those prints to make 80% frames. As far as I know, there are no genuine prints out in the wild for a Doublestack 2011 style frame, I've looked for a long time and only STI/SVI has them.

[cooper74]

Frames from STI, PT, and CK all measure .445 or slightly under. At least the hundreds I've looked at. We have variances with many premier race gun builders and none of them want it to change either, I've asked.

Those prints above are not genuine. I've looked them over in the past and there are lots of errors (gaps between mating parts, missing features, grip holes in the wrong spot, grip mates at a tilted angle...) - what's worse is I know of at least two companies using those prints to make 80% frames. As far as I know, there are no genuine prints out in the wild for a Doublestack 2011 style frame, I've looked for a long time and only STI/SVI has them.

Well that's good to know... someone here I think posted those prints a while back.

Care to share yours L10? =P

[chris21]

Went ahead and fit the schuemman bull barrel to the slide and frame as well as finishing fitting the slide. I also fit the reverse hat style plug

[mtenenhaus]

Hope you don't mind my asking but where would one generally place shims for these receivers?

looks like a fun build

[MosinVirus]

Hope you don't mind my asking but where would one generally place shims for these receivers?

looks like a fun build

The Matrix Jig Rail Cutting Jig references where the rails are positioned based on the deck. So the jig (at least in my opinion) expects the deck to be at .450" from center of slide stop pin hole.

Since we know the SS Pin Hole is .200", and you want to measure from Top of SS Pin hole to deck, you would subtract the radius of the SS Pin Hole from the .450" spec - which will result in .350"

Since some 2011 frames have shorter decks, if you place it into the jig as is, the frame will sit lower in the jig, and the rails will be cut lower on the frame (closer to the SS Pin hole). This can affect which link you will have to use with your barrel, and whether the barrel will reach the VIS with a shorter link.

So, you would place the shim under the frame when you place it into the jig, to simulate having a .350" (from top of SS pin hole) or .450" (from center of SS pin hole) deck, so that the rails are cut into correct position in relation to SS Pin hole.

Matrix, I believe, has two shims - .003 and .005". You should use whatever shim or shims you need if your deck is shorter than spec to bring the total deck height back into spec.

[dwalker]

The Matrix Jig Rail Cutting Jig references where the rails are positioned based on the deck. So the jig (at least in my opinion) expects the deck to be at .450" from center of slide stop pin hole.

Since we know the SS Pin Hole is .200", and you want to measure from Top of SS Pin hole to deck, you would subtract the radius of the SS Pin Hole from the .450" spec - which will result in .350"

Since some 2011 frames have shorter decks, if you place it into the jig as is, the frame will sit lower in the jig, and the rails will be cut lower on the frame (closer to the SS Pin hole). This can affect which link you will have to use with your barrel, and whether the barrel will reach the VIS with a shorter link.

So, you would place the shim under the frame when you place it into the jig, to simulate having a .350" (from top of SS pin hole) or .450" (from center of SS pin hole) deck, so that the rails are cut into correct position in relation to SS Pin hole.

Matrix, I believe, has two shims - .003 and .005". You should use whatever shim or shims you need if your deck is shorter than spec to bring the total deck height back into spec.

Yeap, or just use a shorter link. I cut my rails on a mill using the L10 Jig and just used the appropriate link to get the lock-up right.

[mtenenhaus]

thank you

[arfan66]

Hey guys,

Just got my 1911 builders 2011 frame in the mail yesterday (I'll add some pics later on today). overall the quality was on par with limited 10 except for the fact that there was small chips everywhere inside with some oil. Was really disappointed that it could have been blown out with an air compressor. My frame also had bare machining makes in between the rails on either side. BUT, the ramped barrel cut was very very welll done. Machining was top notch on that part of the frame. STI grip slide right on with no fitting necessary.

The frame needed to be filed down a little bit to fit into the matrix precision jig, and leaves a small gap in between the slide and the frame once the rails are cut.


I'll be updating you guys on my build and what I do to make this 2011 into a limited gun for uspsa.

I got two of the 2011 frames on Friday and both were spotless. However, there were light machine marks in the areas you mentioned. Maybe you you got a frame that was QC'd on a Friday afternoon/early Monday morning?

[Dr69er]

My Son ordered one...the owner said that the specs and quality are better
than the L10 versions (remains to be seen) so we will see...fingers crossed.

Will post some pics hopefully once it comes in, hope it is as described by the
owner.

[Dr69er]

My Son ordered one...the owner said that the specs and quality are better
than the L10 versions (remains to be seen) so we will see...fingers crossed.

Will post some pics hopefully once it comes in, hope it is as described by the
owner.

Looks like they will be shipping the order in a few days...not to bad as it
relates to processing time (just under two weeks), but they seem to have
sold out on many of the 2011's so far...

[ducky_0811]

Two weeks is phenomenal for a 2011 frame! Some people have waited over 3 months for an L10 frame. Another company I've spoken too that's about to have their frames for sale is Sacred Defense. They have a true heavy weight frame coming in around 12-13 oz from a 5" railed frame. Oh, and they have 100% frames and can do a legal single shot transfer for you as well... ask me how I know!

[Dr69er]

Two weeks is phenomenal for a 2011 frame! Some people have waited over 3 months for an L10 frame. Another company I've spoken too that's about to have their frames for sale is Sacred Defense. They have a true heavy weight frame coming in around 12-13 oz from a 5" railed frame. Oh, and they have 100% frames and can do a legal single shot transfer for you as well... ask me how I know!

Yep, they just sent us a tracking number...I will post some pics to compare
against what other users have with the same paperweights or the L10's...

[Dr69er]

As promised a comparison of the 2011 L10 7075-T6 vs. 4140 Builders 2011,
both have full length D/C's with Full Rail Cuts...The L10 version as been media
blasted and is otherwise in the raw and close to being finished...the Builders
version is as it came from the vendor in it's raw state, it differs only in that it
has a ball cut under the D/C rails (which we did not care for as it took out a
bit too much material and left a thin area along the center of the D/C rail).
The D/C is also thicker on the L10 2011 version...



[IMG][/IMG]
L10 on the Left, Builders on the Right

[IMG][/IMG]
Builders on Top, L10 on Bottom

[IMG][/IMG]
A closer look under the dust cover rail shows the rough machine marks and burrs the Builders version...

[IMG][/IMG]
A closer look on the underside of the Builders, generally pretty clean but notice the machine marks near the trigger tab...

[IMG][/IMG]
The Builders version on top, notice the cutting oil on the edges...also more burrs and sharp edges vs. the L10.

[IMG][/IMG]
The differances in D/C thickness...



Overall the L10 was machined to a higher standard with fewer machine marks and fewer sharp edges in general.
The Builders version was not bad, however, there needs to more attention spent on finer machining work and
reducing burrs and sharp edges...Both seemed to be in spec as far as hole locations, with the L10 having a slight
advantage overall...

[Dr69er]

There was some criticism of the L10's having rough machine marks and
others also saying that media blasting was difficult and it did not produce
a nice final finish...well as you can see this was not the case with the L10.

Once all complete they will go to a professional finisher to be Ceracoated.

Maybe the Steel version hard chrome plated...but who knows.

[pklin1297]

L-10 is running a President's Day sale that started today. I grabbed another carbon frame and also one of their coned barrels for another build. I know if I ever have an issue with L-10's product, I'll be able to talk to them about it and they will take care of me. Can't say that about 1911builders from my past dealings with them...