DuraCoat Airbrush problem

[Mickey3Gun]

Try One Of These

Iwata has an LPH 50 that will work well, but it might be a little pricey ($240.00 avg.) for a one time paint job http://www.iwata-medea.com/index.php/products/lph_50/

The Paasche VL Siphon Feed is also a good beginning air brush and it's less expensive than Iwata, (about $90.00'ish) http://www.dixieart.com/Paasche_Airb...l#anchor158637

I own, an use Iwata's, Rich Pen's and Paasche's. My Iwata's for fine detail (like vein's on eye balls) and the Paasche for laying down backgrounds. Just practice on something, other than your weapon, first! Most paint needs to be reduced a little for air brushing. (Ask DuraCoat tech dept. for starting percentages and go from there.) With a little practice you'll do fine.

[C.G.]

iwata makes really nice airbrushes. I have an eclipse, but the hopper is a little small for doing large parts. One of these would be great.

always test your air brush prior to mixing your paint/ coating. Take some acetone and run through the gun, make sure everything is working properly. And remember, a clean airbrush is a happy airbrush. If you plan on using it more than once, clean clean clean. Take the whole damn thing apart when you are done, soak it in acetone, if you have a sonic cleaner thing those work great too. Take the needle, the "trigger" all of the pneu's, put a small amount of lube on any moving parts, oil from your nose/ forehead is plenty enough for most parts.

There is a man who knows the deal. +1

[team06]

I wish I had seen the above posts before I started trying to Duracoat. I have been through more than a few airbrushes, from Harbor Freight to Iwata, and have learned some hard lessons. I am CHEAP, it just chaps my hide to spend big bucks on a brush when I can get a cheapy to do the same job. Here are a few things I learned from painting a few dozen guns.
My main tools now are a cheap touch up gun from Harbor Freight, I use it for a single color job or for the first color on a camo / mult color job. I use my Iwata HPB on the smallers stuff, but I do need to thin more for the Iwata. I also use a Iwata HPA for the really fine detail work, and once again, thin the hell out of it. Harbor freight sells two touchup guns, one with plastic cup and one with aluminum cum, I use the aluminum one. I only mix at very most 12cc's of paint at a time, and that would be for a full long gun base coat.
Reducer is something you need to play with. I happento live fairly close to the ocean on the central coast and I have a bit higher humidity than some places. I find that I need to add reducer to all my spray guns and even more for the airbrushes. I tried no reducer and had a lot of problems with dry spray. With the reducer I can get thin wet coats that still dry (tack up) quickly but do not have that chalky look to them. and do not be afraid to get in close to your work, holding hte gun too far away will sometimes let the paint go off somewhat before it contacts teh gun part to be painted.
Another hurdle I jumpped was learning to be anal about cleaning and prep. The process I use now is as follows: wipe every part down with solvent, spray down each part with brakeclean, wipe each part with acetone, either blast w/ aluminum oxide 120 grit or Scotch brite the parts, wipe down with acetone one last time.... and wear gloves and respirator!!!!
Oh btw... contact lenses LOVE Duracoat, sticks great, especialy the clears, your eyes however do not love the duracoat finish on the contacts and will complain more than a bit.

[kingjoey]

We have trim guns and Paasche airbrushes for most of the work here, but probably the easiest airbrush to use (and the easiest to clean/maintain) is the Badger needle-less unit, they run about $30.

[Mickey3Gun]

.... and wear gloves and respirator!!!!
Oh btw... contact lenses LOVE Duracoat, sticks great, especialy the clears, your eyes however do not love the duracoat finish on the contacts and will complain more than a bit.

+1 Team06 and xxdabroxx! Sounds like DuraCoat act's sorta kinda acts like a isocyanate (automotive base/clear paint system).

Alex00, not to scare you but read this from OSHA http://www.osha.gov/SLTC/isocyanates/index.html Just something to be aware of.

Also, you will know if you are running to much air pressure if you get a "dry tip" (i.e your A/B needle tip will quickly start forming dry paint "luggies" on it.) Just gently wipe it clean from time to time with reducer and keep the needle clean, and reduce your air pressure. (Google "beginning airbrush tips" and you'll find a wealth of information.)

Don't get overwhelmed, just do some homework first, practice with some inexpensive model paint, and remember to have fun! You might find you have a real knack for this, and turn your hobby into a side business...... Helps pay for the equipment.........

[drawn]

Pros don't use airbrushes....

We use airbrushes for certain applications but the HVLP gun and converter do most of the work.

Reducer is something you need to play with. I happen to live fairly close to the ocean on the central coast and I have a bit higher humidity than some places. I find that I need to add reducer to all my spray guns and even more for the airbrushes. I tried no reducer and had a lot of problems with dry spray. With the reducer I can get thin wet coats that still dry (tack up) quickly but do not have that chalky look to them. and do not be afraid to get in close to your work, holding hte gun too far away will sometimes let the paint go off somewhat before it contacts the gun part to be painted.

Reducer is used for thinning thicker recipes and Retarder is used for adjusting flash time in varied humidity and temperature.

[alex00]

Thanks for all the advice. LCW came through like champs and sent a new airbrush, paint and hardener all on the house. I painted the shotgun, and had very few problems with the second HF airbrush. My only complaint was the slow start on paint flow, I had to hold the button down for a few seconds to get the paint spraying. The gun came out looking great, and I'll post some pics when the sun comes out.

[Whiterook]

This is all thats needed, cheap and sprays like a champ.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=92126