...

[Sigsour7]

what were you saying about the slide springing?

"Just a quick warning to people thinking about cutting serrations into the front of their slide, the slide will spring. "

[MosinVirus]

Here is the charger I use.

https://www.amazon.com/Century-87102C-Manual-Battery-Charger/dp/B000IJRG0U

[ar15barrels]

It opened up, or sprang. The slide had no slop before the serrations. The un-serrated slide still fits snug with no play in it. The serrated slide is now annoyingly loose in side-to-side movement.

Not from that little bit of machining to make those grooves you show above.
The two slides are simply DIFFERENT dimensions.

[Sigsour7]

ya dude,.....wth

those cuts are so thin, theres no way it causes it to open up. those serrations have nothing to do with the slide issue.

you used different slides, when your cutting a slide to "mate" with that frame, any other slide you use isn't going to be perfect.

[MosinVirus]

I would be interested in how the slide was clamped for filing, because maybe it is then when the slide was forced open a bit?

[craneman]

I know for a fact that the one slide I saw in person was wavy along the rails. So much so the the naked eye could see it. It was straightened manually. It fits much better now.

[TheGaut]

Holy molly that looks like a nice project!

[PachecoFTW]

No worries. Life it happens to every one.
Thats a kick *** build good job.
I still havent started any of my sig frames because i want to send them off to vader to get em engraved with a Gadsen rattle snake, and my birth date serial on one blah blah blah.
Still waitimg on my titanium wire, lead sheet, etc.
Then im building a blast cabnet from old bed frame angles specifically for aluminum frames etc.
I sort of get what u mean by springing up.
Let us know how you finish it please, as soon as i get the sig rail cutters and finish my blast cabnit i will start on mine asap.

[flhxxx]

Those builds look really nice. I am still not sure how to proceed with mine. I want to make sure it comes out perfect. I have almost all of the parts to proceed, just have to decide on what finish (robar np3, DLC, type III ano, cerakote)..

Going to start reading up on the whole process, thanks for this great post, it's a good start.

[croc4]

Mosin, PM sent to show how I anodize, I'm no expert, but I've had good luck with my process. It works even better in the winter, temps are even lower overall.


croc4

[PachecoFTW]

Its all about the lubrication and corrosion Lubrication is kind self explanitory. You will need some coating to prevent corrosion between dissimilar metals of the slide and frame.

100% true, theres certain metals that react violently with eachother and thus caise corrosion.
Same with some lubricants, can dissipate and leave minerals that will corode and transfer it to other metals.

I dont think you need to really to anodize, but at least alumhide it, the down side to no anodizing is you WILL see significantly more wear if you shoot alot.
You know because its aluminum not steel, proper anodizing will create a layer as hard as steel but will wear regardless.

[lc*y]

interesting

[mtenenhaus]

Wow, those frames look great. Would you mind sharing the technique.

I've had great results with Bruce Gray parts, they always significantly improve feel and function. Worth every penny in my opinion.

[abcollector]

Wow, those frames look great. Would you mind sharing the technique.

plus 1 or is that 2?

[Kayo Kelly]

CeraKoted and ready for assembly.





The reason it took me so long to get to this point was because I waited for the temp to get cold enough at night for a proper anodize. You really should be around the freezing temperature of water to do it up right. The Cerakote over the anodize looks a lot better in person than in these pics...

I dont see a number.
It was recommended to me by a gunsmith (not a lawyer) to have a number put on to identify in case it was stolen or I was stopped by LEO.

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