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[Kayo Kelly]

How about cerakote and a toaster oven.

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[nuggethunter]

Its all good. I appreciate you wanting it to be perfect, but there are a LOT of varaibles, thats all I'm saying.

[MosinVirus]

MosinVirus, did you ever get yours anodized?

This Saturday, after I bead blast it.

[vlady]

If you're going to do cerakote, get microslick as its much thinner and will not wear as quickly as regular cerakote. Also, remember that cerakote is a paint and does not provide any penetration or the surface hardening properties of anodizing.

[kcstott]

Never said a thing about rounding to the hundreth of an inch.

In about the 4th grade we learned: .01 is hundredths (2 decimal places), .001 would be thousandths (3 decimal places) .0001" would be ten thousandths (4 decimal places)
Google "Decimal Places" if you are still confused.

Now that the Elemtary school math lesson is done, you are saying .001" - .002" which is the same thing I said....3 decimal places, thousandths

Who do you have that can anodize to a specific .0001" thickness? Nobody, thats why the parts that had to fit after anodize had slop when they were done.

As for thermals, .0000001" interference can still cause something to stick.

A temp range for a gun in a vehicle can easily swing 100 in California. Where I live 160 degrees every year.

Frame is 6" + long

You know what Chalk that up to foot in mouth disease. I re read your post and yeah that was my complete and total screw up.
We are on the same page.

[kcstott]

It's going to wear, there is no doubt. Is it as good as Anodize?? No. Is it damn close and far easier to perform?? Hell yes...

I've got my USP 45 in FDE an OD green, it has holster wear, the metal insert for the rails is shiny in some spots but it's nothing to worry about. Its a working gun not a show piece.

[Cuda440]

I'm planning on giving the brownells aerosol Teflon/moly oven cure finish a try on my sig frame, seems easier to use than ceracoat and gets decent reviews from people that prepped the parts right.

I'm not sure how much thickness it will build but I e seen some 1911s done with it and the pins and slide still fit fine afterwards, I might cut the rails with a little extra clearance just in case

[JMHornbill]

I have never done any of this before. But if it doesn't matter if the critical holes are anodized
Could you drill them after anodizing

[nuggethunter]

You know what Chalk that up to foot in mouth disease. I re read your post and yeah that was my complete and total screw up.
We are on the same page.

Its all good. I went a little too far on my response too.

[kcstott]

Its all good. I went a little too far on my response too.

I'm not offended. i don't need a safe place. I thought hiding behind a monitor was safe enough

[kcstott]

I have never done any of this before. But if it doesn't matter if the critical holes are anodized
Could you drill them after anodizing

Yeah you could be then the loose the wear resistance of the Anodize. but unless you shoot 5K rounds a year I wouldn't worry about pin hole wear

[Kayo Kelly]

I had my 80% aluminum handle cerakoted. Put 1,000 rounds or so. Don't recall much rail wear. The magwell has a little rub but thats because it fit too tight after it was coated.

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[pklin1297]

For an occasional range gun, is the surface hardening of Type III (or even Type II) anodizing really required for 7075 aluminum?

[Frisco3Gun]

Damn these look great. I don't have the time or the tools to get them done right now, though. I'll stick with my German 228 and its round trigger guard

[nuggethunter]

For an occasional range gun, is the surface hardening of Type III (or even Type II) anodizing really required for 7075 aluminum?

Its all about the lubrication and corrosion Lubrication is kind self explanitory. You will need some coating to prevent corrosion between dissimilar metals of the slide and frame.