Would a p226 slide work on the p229 frame? Hmm
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I used the Matrix tools on an old frame I had lying around.
I put mine together watching this video on Sat and have 2 mags thru the gun so far. Video is excellent, just watch a step, pause, complete work, repeat.
Matrix drill jig was perfect, rail cutter top notch, although I didn't hardly touch the frame with a file. I'll detail in my video.
I'll be posting up videos of my build over the next week.
I'd recommend getting your parts ordered ASAP because once the Matrix frames come to market, parts are going to be scarce. The Glock frame made Glock parts kits hard to find and expensive.Last edited by nuggethunter; 05-15-2016, 11:11 AM.Comment
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Just put 250 rounds through one of the betas. No hiccups after the first 4 mags. Had one failure to fire on the first mag and then had the slide not lock back on three mags. Overall a great project and I ended with none of the slop between the slide and frame like matrix documented with the factory pistol (up/down and side to side). Assembly was very straight forward with zero fitting of any parts. Nice departure from putting together a 1911. Very accurate too for a short barreled 9mm. Fun little pistolsigpicComment
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I had to use a file on the rail...https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LeA1RgrrsMk
I used the Matrix tools on an old frame I had lying around.
I put mine together watching this video on Sat and have 2 mags thru the gun so far. Video is excellent, just watch a step, pause, complete work, repeat.
Matrix drill jig was perfect, rail cutter top notch, although I didn't hardly touch the frame with a file. I'll detail in my video.
I'll be posting up videos of my build over the next week.
I'd recommend getting your parts ordered ASAP because once the Matrix frames come to market, parts are going to be scarce. The Glock frame made Glock parts kits hard to find and expensive.Hobbies: bla, bla, bla... Bought a Mosin Nagant... Guns, Guns, Guns...Comment
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Are you not going to anodize? That sear spring pin is steel, so now you will need to remove it before anodizing and that could be a pain.Just put 250 rounds through one of the betas. No hiccups after the first 4 mags. Had one failure to fire on the first mag and then had the slide not lock back on three mags. Overall a great project and I ended with none of the slop between the slide and frame like matrix documented with the factory pistol (up/down and side to side). Assembly was very straight forward with zero fitting of any parts. Nice departure from putting together a 1911. Very accurate too for a short barreled 9mm. Fun little pistol
RE: Slide not locking back... I always have this issue with Sigs. My thumb always rides the slide stop.Hobbies: bla, bla, bla... Bought a Mosin Nagant... Guns, Guns, Guns...Comment
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I shimmed the frame up and cut again, without adjusting depth, .001 at a time, 4 times and ended up at .1225 with the .118 cutter. I had a 228 slide that was milled offset .005", this was the only reason I had to touch the frame with a file other than to break the corners for anodize. My other slide of course is milled on center and fits better (found out after)Comment
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Only betas have been sent out to a small number of people to try to build and test the jigs against. The production frames and jigs will be improved on based on tester feedback. No production frames have been mailed. I should know, I have production frame #1 reserved and I'm one of the beta testers.NRA Member, CAPRC MemberComment
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By the way, tightly rolled sandpaper for the trigger pin hole works like a charm. Obviously not a new method, but still. I cut a strip about 3" long and 2" wide, carefully creased the long edge, then more, and more so I could roll it up tightly. Measured against the hole, cut off excess sandpaper, etc until I ended up with a firm 3" sanding stick. Fed it into the hole while turning and when through both sides, I took the stick on both sides and just By using the weight of the frame started spinning/swinging it on the sandpaper. When it got loaded, I moved the frame over on the stick about 1/4" and did some more.
Turning the frame in the same direction as the sandpaper us rolled will keep it rolled up, but spinning in the opposite direction will make the sandpaper expand, giving you a bit more uniform sanding action.
Pin now falls in and out but doesn't wobble. Obviously check frequently.Hobbies: bla, bla, bla... Bought a Mosin Nagant... Guns, Guns, Guns...Comment
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