Having a hard time installing Valkyrie Predator muzzle brake on SA Loaded

[ifilef]

Gosh, I've watch videos on YouTube, etc. PITA! I've also made numerous inquiries as to whether compatible with the SA Loaded and the answers were
in the affirmative.

I have a stock, Parkerized and UNFIRED SA Loaded in .45acp.

The SA loaded has what appears to be a two-piece guide rod.
The longer part is not installed until after the gun is reassembled, and screws in using an Allen wrench.

The guide rod plug at top of the spring that one presses down measures, I believe, less than 1.2 inches in length.

I've tried the following solutions and can't do either, and I am not a weakling.



^^^I could not compress guide rod spring enough to do what the guy did in the video above.



^^^I could not get the guide rod plug and spring down enough for muzzle brake to clear and move over it as in video, above. The plug cut into my finger and
it was making a blister and hurt a bit. Lost the plug a number of times and it is dangerous with the tremendous spring pressure. The video maker seemed to have
little difficulty in getting his down. Ticked me off, because it is a real PITA for me.

Would prefer not to drive distance and pay a gunsmith to remedy this, or to buy the Wilson Combat setup or Commander guide rod plug as it should not be necessary?

Any insight as to what I may be doing wrong?

What a PITA- for ME! YMMV.

OH, BTW, it is quite easy to make an idiot scratch on the firearm. Why?

Because that plunger that needs to be depressed on the counter-clockwise upstroke of the slide stop will not depress to the right using right edge of the slide stop alone. One must depress it separately using a tool or some independent source to get it in. Finger pressure sometimes works. Be careful!

[ar15barrels]

Two piece guide rods make it easy.
It should not be a problem if you have the front part of the guide rod unscrewed.

[ifilef]

It is unscrewed. I still can't compress the spring sufficiently as done in those two different videos. Perhaps the spring needs to be broken in as gun has not yet been fired, though I have stored the gun over numerous nights with the slide locked back.

I tried the method in the first video, thought it would be easy, but it wasn't. I can't fully assemble the slide with brake as in that first video and then attach it to the frame.
The method in the second video was even worse for me.

The guide rod plug as measured with a caliper is only 1.1 inches long, so it is apparently within max of 1.2 inches. The smaller part of the guide rod looks similar to a GI one except I believe it longer and has the threads to screw longer part of the guide rod into it.

[MosinVirus]

Did you get the gun with that bushing or the standard bushing? Did you have any issues with reinstalling the plug with a standard bushing?

When I reinstall the plugs I usually put the slide assembly on the frame, bushing turned to the correct side, spring sticking out. Insert the slide stop, engage the thumb safety to prevent the slide from moving back, and then push the plug into the plug tunnel until I can catch the shoulder with the bushing. Then I press it in all the way and rotate the bushing over the plug until it snaps into its place.

I know what you mean about the FLGR plugs being thin at the edge and they can hurt when they dig into the finger. Try laying a penny over it when you push it down. When the penny touches the slide, turn the bushing or muzzle break over by pushing the penny out of the way.

And by all means don't have your face over the muzzle of the gun when you do that or you could really get hurt.

As for the slide stop aND idiot mark... this is a popular modification to reinsert the slide stop straight. See the little channel for the plunger? I usually use a small dremel diamond burr to cut it or the edge of the half round needle file. It needs to be very small obviously as the plunger is tiny. And it needs to be in the correct location so the slide stop can clear the frame and the slide notch.

[ifilef]

I was able to cover the slight idiot scratch with cold blue. I don't feel competent to work a dremel or file in the area described, of which I am not sure, but thanks for the pic. I'm just more careful using a Q-tip, or harder object to get the plunger in sufficiently so that the slide stop will go past the plunger and into the cutout for it on the frame.

No problem installing the guide rod plug into the slide and depressing the spring with the standard bushing that came with the pistol.

Problem's with the muzzle brake, either while trying to fully assemble the slide with brake and before attaching it to the frame as in first video or more conventional means as in the second.

Will try the penny 'trick', though I have tried other things to get that spring depressed adequately. We are talking serious tension, really dangerous tension with that muzzle brake there instead of the standard bushing. Don't really know if it's the irregular shape of the muzzle brake that is making it difficult to get the spring down. Will watch the second video again and try it in the next day or two, again.

[ar15barrels]

No problem installing the guide rod plug into the slide and depressing the spring with the standard bushing that came with the pistol.

Problem's with the muzzle brake, either while trying to fully assemble the slide with brake and before attaching it to the frame as in first video or more conventional means as in the second.

Maybe I missed it, but does the brake fit the slide properly without the spring and guide rod in place?

[MosinVirus]

Maybe I missed it, but does the brake fit the slide properly without the spring and guide rod in place?

Yeah, that would be important to know. Regarding the spring tension though, there would be no difference. Not sure why you are having more issues with the muzzle break vs regular bushing. Can the plug clear the muzzle break with no issues?

Did you try to reassemble without the spring just to see if the plug rubs on the muzzle break when it passes?

Again, the tension should be the same

[ifilef]

Maybe I missed it, but does the brake fit the slide properly without the spring and guide rod in place?

Yes, it appears to fit fine. But due to the spring pressure, I can't fully assemble the slide. Maybe I should keep trying, as in the first video, but I can only
take the nervous energy of that guy in small doses. I will, though, watch the video again.

[ifilef]

Bingo!

See attached images (sorry for poor quality!).

I was finally able to do this using a variation of the second video.

Thanks for all the suggestions. Appreciated!

Now that I have figured out how to do it with THIS PARTICULAR 1911 (Springfield Armory Loaded in .45acp), it should not be a PITA.

Variation from the second video- with the short part of the guide rod, which is threaded, the spring must be attached to it before moving the slide back to insert the slide stop. One can not drop the spring in later as in that video and with other .45's... at least not if one wants to later attach the front part of the guide rod.

So, it's basically a normal reassembly- barrel, recoil spring and shorter guide rod (threaded) in the slide (BUT with NO BUSHING attached to barrel), attach slide to frame and get that slide stop inserted into the frame, move slide forward and apply thumb safety so the slide is locked...then, place guide rod/recoil spring plug on exposed spring, apply downward pressure on it but press down hard and try to get it flush, or even deeper (I used the suggested 'penny trick'), then insert the muzzle brake as in the video.

Again, and with the SA Loaded, at least, that recoil spring must be attached to the smaller guide rod first- it goes in snug and the guide rod does not rest well under the barrel without the spring attached to it. Owner's manual clearly depicts spring attached to guide rod in the slide for reassembly. I couldn't do the procedure without the spring already in the gun and attached to the smaller guide rod because the slide would not go back very far, if at all, and spring needs to be attached to the threaded GI-style guide rod using two hands; I make that comment because my gun has never been fired and once the recoil spring breaks in things may be different.

Thereafter, and with the slide retracted and locked open, I was able to screw in the longer portion of the two-part guide rod to the face of the guide rod plug,
though I would imagine it not mandatory.

[kcstott]

IDK

I've got a full sized Kimber installed one of these brakes, I have a full length guide rod and the only issue I had was compressing the plunger tube. Found a pin that fit I use that.

I will say though it takes some good hand strength to do but nothing abnormal.

[ifilef]

Well, that's good.

If there's an easier way than I described, please let me know.

For me, and consistent with the second video where he comments there is not enough clearance, the key is to make the very last step insertion of the brake at the 4 o'clock position and AFTER the recoil spring plug has been depressed enough to get brake in there flush and then rotate it into position.

But there are 'fitment' issues or 'assembly' issues all over the internet and in Amazon reviews. It depends on the gun. Manufacturer even warns about potential issues with plug length, etc., and does mention getting the Wilson guide rod and recoil spring/guide rod plug or a Commander-style plug as possible remedies. Do note that the face of the guide rod plug on the SA Loaded is 'sharp' which will dig into one's finger when pressing down, the Wilson's is flat and easier on one's finger or thumb.

One might think that my assembly would be easier because the guide rod is in two parts, and the shorter part results in assembly similar to one with a GI guide rod. I thought so too, but I think because THIS 'GI'-style guide rod has threads on it and my recoil spring is not broken in, I couldn't drop the spring in later as he did in the video. I couldn't even retract the slide back to insert the slide stop without the spring in there. That is kind of strange.

Question: Perhaps one can only drop the recoil spring in later if one has a full length guide rod?

I am not a pistolsmith and my Loaded has not been fired yet.

[kcstott]

The way I install it is install the brake with it kicked out of the way. I then install the full length guid rod. The the spring and plug. I then compress the spring with the plug and rotate the brake into place.

The only issue is the guide rod try's to leave the assembly so you just pinch it in place.

[ifilef]

"Some buyers may need to shorten their spring plug to 1.2” or purchase an after market guide rod such as the Wilson Combat (#148, 5) or (25 G). Another option is to use a Commander recoil spring plug.

Does not fit Remington R-1 without additional fitting. We recommend consulting a gunsmith.

Installation:

1. Start with the barrel and guide rod installed in the slide (note: I had to include the spring in the slide with mine, consistent with SA assembly instructions)

2. Insert spring and then insert spring cap.

Depress the spring cap with thumb. With spring cap depressed, insert compensator and twist into place."

This makes sense due to clearance issues and the second video is consistent with the above instructions. You did not have clearance issue with the compensator swung out of the way? I seemed to...I had to get the spring plug down before initial insertion of the brake at the 4 o'clock position.

Bottom line for me- That brake doesn't go on until after recoil spring plug is down enough to attach the brake at 4:00 position, then swing it over clockwise. With slight variation I installed as in the second video with slide already on frame.

Gonna buy another but in black combo with the Hive grips.

[ifilef]

The way I install it is install the brake with it kicked out of the way. I then install the full length guid rod. The the spring and plug. I then compress the spring with the plug and rotate the brake into place.

The only issue is the guide rod try's to leave the assembly so you just pinch it in place.

So you fully install it in the slide alone and before attaching it to the frame, if I understand you correctly. Somewhat similar to
the first video, correct, but with your full length guide rod?

Thanks,

[MosinVirus]

Does the bushing break work? As in, does it help?