Not Sure

[ojisan]

I like the flat pin ends.
Yes I do.
Hmmm....only the slide stop shows on mine so that's easy to do.

[MosinVirus]

I like the flat pin ends.
Hmmm....

I love the look. and because I am already going to be using a paperclip to capture the recoil spring and plug onto the full length guide rod, I don't mind using a punch of some sort to assist in pushing the slide stop out.

[ojisan]

My slide stop cross pin tip is already flat tipped, cut about half way off.
I can still get the stop out by pushing the stop just below flush with my fingers.
But darn the flat end looks nice!

[NATEWA]

I just started doing research on 80% builds. I checked out 1911 builders and saw this kit.

http://1911builders.com/collections/4140-steel-kits/products/sti-1911-80-build-kit-5-45-acp-416-or-4140-frame-w-checkered-grip-no-profile-slide

What is a good low priced kit that is on the easier side for a newbie? Thanks

[NATEWA]

Any good videos and/or books?

[rivraton]

As for cheap kits, I hear Sarco has a parts kit. Alot of people seem to like them. I dont have a link to them. So you can get the frame from Maverick, and Sarco parts kit. Than either mill it or use the stated jigs. Best of luck!

http://www.e-sarcoinc.com/partskits.aspx

[kcstott]

Ah, the slide matching.
That's been a challenge.
My Para frame had the rails pre-cut.
First I went with a Colt slide, figuring it would be the best, but it was way too loose up and down and side to side.
Next was a Michigan Armament slide that fit much better.
I should have saved time and money by measuring my frame and taking calipers with me to the gun show and measure the slides before I bought them.
I happened to run across a Para Limited slide assembly and it fits like a glove.


The earlier picture I posted is with a Commander length slide.
This was a limited run made back a few years ago to allow use of a commander length on a government frame.

My Para is much narrower than a Glock, Beretta 92 and similar guns.
I slimmed the frame as much as possible and it has the thinnest grips available on it.
It feels just like a single stack at the back of the hand, with just a slightly larger front feel.

I know you don't want to hear it but slide peening has been done to pistols for decades to tighten them up. you only need to peen a few spots to get a good fit.

[ojisan]

I know you don't want to hear it but slide peening has been done to pistols for decades to tighten them up. you only need to peen a few spots to get a good fit.

Yeah, I played with that a little but the slide grooves were just too wide.
Also tried the pinching trick, (wow it took a big vice to do that!) it helped but was not satisfactory.
I'm sure you know the feeling of having something that works but is not "right".
It has to be fixed or replaced so when you look at it, you know in your soul that all is exactly as it should be.

[NATEWA]

As for cheap kits, I hear Sarco has a parts kit. Alot of people seem to like them. I dont have a link to them. So you can get the frame from Maverick, and Sarco parts kit. Than either mill it or use the stated jigs. Best of luck!

Thank you.

[pklin1297]

Sorry for a little detour, but what do you guys think about the aluminum frames offered by 1911 Builders and Limited 10? I do want to get into building an 80% 2011 to start but the drill press I have may not be beefy enough for stainless steel or 4140...

[MountainShooter]

Sorry for a little detour, but what do you guys think about the aluminum frames offered by 1911 Builders and Limited 10? I do want to get into building an 80% 2011 to start but the drill press I have may not be beefy enough for stainless steel or 4140...

It would probably be ok for the steel frames using the matrix precision jig.

[MosinVirus]

Just a little update. Here is a 1911 builders frame with a .250 radius STI grip safety. Same gap as 220, but since .250 fits, there are way more choices. Used the Ed Brown .250 beavertail jig.

By the way, I always bring up the STI grip corners like that cause I don't like how they feel on the webbing. So don't be wondering why they are so rouded upward.

Confirmed. .250 radius is good for 1911 builder frames.

[chrisinlb]

Great build and info Mosin. I will do a quick update in the initial post reflecting the .250 radius in case they dont read every post. Thanks for coming back to update.

You acheived a truely awesome fit there, nice pics. I just watched your video on the ramped barrel install and frame mod cuts. You will help many people with that one. You continue to inspire.
Cheers!

[vlady]

Great. I've already bought the .220 and it's actually .250?

[chrisinlb]

That was what we were led to believe from their website, so you are not alone.
The frame radius is not cut for .250 or .220, it is not cut at all.
Meaning that if you have to cut in a radius yourself using a jig. .250 is the most common and you have more options on grip safeties.
Of course you can cut in the .220 as I did and it will look great as well. 1911Builders have since updated their website to needing 4 operations completed.

Rails
Hammer hole
Sear Hole
GRIP SAFETY CUSTOMER PREFERENCE

In the initial post, I tried very hard to prepare potential buyers for this requirement.
Maverick Arms sells the same frame with .250 radius cut.
All things considered, you just need a .220 jig from brownells to complete the radius.
Or return yours for .250 and that jig.
Best wishes!