Not Sure

[chrisinlb]

Not sure what to put down now.

[Dr69er]

Great looking builds BTW, really nice work and beautiful looking finishes
on the TM's and the SS Commander version...

You touched upon a few points that many builders should consider:

> Try to buy the highest quality parts you can afford, which usually
means well known name brand parts like: Wilson Combat, Ed Brown,
Chip McCormick, Caspian, etc.

> For things like high ride beavertail grip safeties avoid non standard
radius cuts such as the .220" cut used in the Smith & Alexander
versions vs. the .250" radius cuts that are generally Industry
standard...Unfortunately the OP found this out the hard way...

> Buy/rent/borrow the correct tools and jigs/fixtures needed for the
job at hand...otherwise, you will be spend more time fitting parts and
getting frustrated when it doesn't fit correctly...

> Specialty work like finishing/re-finishing/finish coating/hot bluing etc,
are better left to the pro's unless you have the equipment and skill to
do it yourself...

> Do a lot of research on the web and look Into places like YouTube to
get a good Idea on building 1911's to help avoid common and sometimes
expensive mistakes when fitting/building your prized 1911 pistol...

Just keep in mind this is NOT a low cost hobby , but when done
correctly It can be a cherished piece to hand downed to your loved ones
with the added pride that you had finished a custom 1911 build yourself...

The OP's pistols came out virtually flawless and function just as good as
they look in part because he was willing to spend the money needed to
get pro quality level pistols...

One last tid-bit, In fairness to TM, they have always had excellent products
and customer service, and they have had Issues with their vendor who
does their castings and are trying to get that resolved from what I under-
stand...

[Dr69er]

Exellent points that I should have expanded on. The Builders frame said it came with a 220 radius and I wrongly assumed a 220 radius grip safety would fit.
What I should have done is bought the .250 radius jig and 250 grip safety and cut that in instead of sticking to the 220 radius.
Another thing I forgot to add is Caspian commander slides use a 38 super ejector. Just thought id throw that in.
The phantom jig made this a very easy project to complete, along with a quality frame. I even bought the decking jig that is needed on some model frames to keep it flat. If you are using a mill dont bother with the jig.
I am glad you think my no nonsense look is good. The pictures really dont do them justice.
You are exactly right about passing them down, that is indeed the plan.

I'm guessing you meant to say a 9mm/38 Super firing pin (Caspian and many others use this to help avoid problems with primer flow/intrusion,
etc. with the .45 ACP caliber slides)...of course if your firing a .45 ACP and have a 9mm/38 Super ejector it will malfunction...

Which brings me to this side note, 1911 in 9mm/38 Super is really a nice
soft shooting pistol, especially if it is a full size version (5" Bbl.)...with
the advantage of firing lower cost ammo (9x19/9mm NATO).

Back in the day, did a lot of .45 to 9mm conversions for the 1911
Gov't model, they were quite accurate and dependable btw...

Enjoy.

[VaderSpade]

For less than $400.00 (a lot less) you could buy everything you need to Cerakote them yourself, and then you would have it all for future builds.

[VaderSpade]

I have been using the kitchen oven with no residual smells. Old ovens can be picked up on Craigslist for free - $50.00.

[Dr69er]

You can use a good quality blow dryer for your Initial drying then a large toaster oven
or a old kitchen oven for your full curing...just make sure you have a
accurate thermometer to place in the oven (300-350 deg,) is the
temp range you are looking for...

Good luck.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uu_iuB5fqPU

[MountainShooter]

What was your process to do the sand and scotch brite finish? It looks really nice. I have the same gun and was think of bead blasting it, but may be interested in doing it the way you did.

[MountainShooter]

Thanks! I really appreciate the nice write up. Take care!

[MosinVirus]

Guess I got my TM frame when they still had problems... frame was, as many have mentioned less that satisfactory... I did a couple on aluminum stealth arms frames. And one I am working on now is 1911 builders. Wonderful frame. No issues whatsoever. The S&A beavertail was interesting to fit. Had to remove a bunch of meat off the bottom. The tangs on 1911 frames I have are not cut at all, but with 220 radius S&A grip safety exposed a gap on the bottom, so I assume a 250 radius would not fit better.

[ojisan]

"This was the most difficult thing to do. I enjoyed this and when it was finished I felt a great sense of accomplishment. Not to be confused with wanting to do it again. "

LOL.
Been there, done that.

[MosinVirus]

Wow, that looked great before it disappeared...you guys are setting the bar pretty high for me...LOL I just put the plunger tube on, and pondered if I shouldn't have waited until after I get it cerakoted, I'd like to have it stainless after, but I need it on to put the pistol together.

Seems like all of us had some less than satisfactory frames, but as I pointed out, TM was a milestone in providing a frame that made it easier. There are just more and better options today, but maybe TM will address some of the short comings, the rear grip is being addressed as Nathan posted in the other thread. And to give them credit there are many people that have built them successfully.

Really nice looking pistol with that brake Mosin!

Thanks, I just caught myself thinking that it wasn't my build thread and went back to putting in my 2 cents on the subject, intstead of clogging up the original thread. I still have that TM frame laying around. I did correct all the major problems with it but decided to not proceed.

MosinVirus,
Don't think for a minute I didnt see the picture of that sick gun. I just called my friend to check it out and its gone already. That was... imagination and craftmanship I have never seen before. I think there will be whispered rumors about that gun.

I was pleased to see you used the same grip safety and got the same result as I did. Meaning the small opening on the bottom neither safety or frame filled up. I too think starting with a 250 radius safety would be better. But its too late for me now to see.

Ojisn, it seems you had the same experience. I am starting to think it is what one should expect as far as blending the grip safety. Thanks for the input.

I think it is safe to say, after seeing that gun, that a 1911builder frame is a frame to build a dream gun on. Thanks for sharing.

I mistyped originally, I think that if the .220 radius had a gap on the bottom between the tangs and beavertail, a .250 radius would likely have a larger gap.

Here is the gap I was talking about when I blended the first (bump-less) grip safety. And yes, the first safety didn't have the uniform radius, so on the top it opened up quite a bit:





Then I decided to replace the bumpless with the current one. Still S&A, but this one fit better, simply proving that they are not all the same.

I feel like I have to point out that the comp is permanently attached...

It is a EGW 8 port cone comp, and I am using a Kart 9mm (non-easy-fit) non ramped or standard barrel 5". I am still thinking about making a comp install video for YouTube. will see.
Nighthawk 9mm slide (which had to be sent back because it was a bit out of spec). Nighthawk was awesome about replacing it.







If you are planning to do something like this with your magwell MSH, and are looking for an alternative to the very expensive ($180) Wilson Combat Round butt 1 piece MSH, Brownells has S&A Mag Guides ($80). Yes this is one I am using here, and yes it is called a mag Guide, which is why I didn't find it originally and almost went for the Wilson Combat one.

Here is how it looked before I cut it.



And after:



I got mine in flat, then "round butted" it, then checkered the remaining flat pad.

[MosinVirus]

THANK YOU for bringing that back. It is an inspiration to us all and perfectly in line with what I had in mind about the thread. Perhaps when TMs new frames come out, people can post thoughts on their new and improved frames as well.

I won't pretend to know what to do about the grip safety thing. I am happy with mine, and was only hoping to have info for the inexperienced, first time builder like myself. God help the poor soul who sees yours and thinks.... 2 holes, rails, and deck the top.. How hard can it be? You blended yours to perfection. Feel free to bring them all back, and add as much commentary about them as you wish. I admit I am in awe. Again, thanks for sharing.

Liber, I am starting to think that parts kit may be the way to go. Perhaps you'll keep us up on the results and quality when done.

Thank you. Well, since you don't mind, I will bring more pictures back above. And as I said above I will probably make a video on the comp install soon.

[MosinVirus]

That I don't know, but here's a tidbit of information that could be helpful to builders.

If you use a .250 radius and screw up, you can take it to .220, but if you use a .220 and screw up, you can't easily take it to .250 radius.

My guess is that since both of you have used .220, it would be difficult to take it to .250 now. Not that it matters, you guys did a great job using the .220, so no worries.

I have another 1911 builders frame (or two), and I have a .250 radius STI Grip safety (or two) laying around, so I guess the easiest would be for me to fit one and see. I will report back with pictures in a couple of days, though it seems at the very start of the thread we already saw .250 radius on the frame, so maybe it is a non-issue.

[ojisan]

I went with a Brown grip safety for my Para gunsmith frame kit build.
The Brown allows the highest grip possible.
However, back in the day there were no jigs to fit these...it was strictly a hand fit deal.
For my first fitting, I made it look as nice as possible.
Nice square edges.
But when shooting the edges were too sharp and ate up the web of my hand.
To heck with looks, I want it to work right and be bite-free.
The squared edges were smoothed and radiused until I had the comfort I wanted.
Yup, the Brown was a big bite to chew on for my first build and took a ton of hours for the fitting of it.
Yes, I'm happy with the end result, but no, I'm not looking forward to doing another one soon.

[MosinVirus]

I went with a Brown grip safety for my Para gunsmith frame kit build.
The Brown allows the highest grip possible.
However, back in the day there were no jigs to fit these...it was strictly a hand fit deal.
For my first fitting, I made it look as nice as possible.
Nice square edges.
But when shooting the edges were too sharp and ate up the web of my hand.
To heck with looks, I want it to work right and be bite-free.
The squared edges were smoothed and radiused until I had the comfort I wanted.
Yup, the Brown was a big bite to chew on for my first build and took a ton of hours for the fitting of it.
Yes, I'm happy with the end result, but no, I'm not looking forward to doing another one soon.

I never even held a "high" capacity 1911. Wonder how it feels compared to the single stack. Looks great, and definitely appears that the grip is as high as it can go. It looks like it is more of a flat under the tangs and the beavertail. is that right? How does that feel as compared to the usual rounded bottom?