Removing screws.

[Zamble]

I am trying to take apart a Browning semi automatic 12 gauge. I am having a hell of a time removing the screws to disassemble it. The shotgun is in okay shape and I don't want to do anything to mess it up. I have sprayed PB Blaster on it and go out occasionally to try to remove the screw, but no joy. On top of that, the bit and screwdriver tips break off.

Any suggestions how to loosen it up or where I can get stronger screwdrivers so the tip won't break off? Only the smallest ones will fit in the head to even try it.

[kcstott]

Yeah you need good gunsmith screwdriver bits. Try Brownell's and to hesitate to give the screws a gentle whack

[MosinVirus]

I sometimes use a rubber band to lay across the slot, stick a screwdriver into the rubber band and into the slot and it helps. just be careful to not slip.

[God Bless America]

Impact driver.

[kendog4570]

Yeah you need good gunsmith screwdriver bits. Try Brownell's and to hesitate to give the screws a gentle whack

Brownells Thin Bit set. The standards are too thick for most gun work. Take them all and throw them in the lead pot at 650 degrees for 20 minutes before using them. The draw will cut way down on breakage. Take a stone and lightly deburr them as well.
On Auto 5's you will need to grind bits to fit the screws. Browning even states this in the shop service manual, and not a bad practice to use on all gun screws. A little rosin also helps keep the bit from camming out and chewing up the screw head.

[sonofeugene]

I sometimes use a rubber band to lay across the slot, stick a screwdriver into the rubber band and into the slot and it helps. just be careful to not slip.

Bad idea as the screwdriver will be prevented from going into the head as far as it should.

Always make sure the screwdriver fits the screw properly.

[MosinVirus]

Bad idea as the screwdriver will be prevented from going into the head as far as it should.

Always make sure the screwdriver fits the screw properly.

I am not saying that it should be done all the time, and depends on the screws. Some slots are deep, and wide, and warn enough. But yes, in general it is better to have a proper size screwdriver filling the entirety of the slot.

[ar15barrels]

Removing screws.

I have had excellent luck using the milling machine to remove stubborn screws.
I clamp the part in the mill vise, center up the quill over the screw, then put a 1/4" hex extension bit holder in the drill chuck.
Now I put the proper fitting bit in the holder.
Applying pressure to the quill handle will allow you to keep the bit from camming upwards while you turn the drill chuck by hand to turn remove the screw.
This method is FAR more solid than any type of handheld screwdriver.

[johnthomas]

Hallow ground screw drivers. Regular drivers are a V shape. Hallow ground goes in flat and fits snug one the walls of the slot. After the driver is is seated square in the slot, tap the screw driver with a mallet turning the driver to the left as you are tapping. This tends to loosen the screw easier than pure brute torque.

http://www.scopedin.com/reviews/at-the-bench/forster-products-hollow-ground-screwdrivers/

[SonofWWIIDI]

Easy out?

[johnthomas]

Easy out?

To use an easy out, there would have to be a hole drilled through the center of the screw or screw head. From my experience, "easy out" is an oxymoron.
Aint nutten easy about using an easy out, lol.

[ar15barrels]

Removing screws.

Aint nutten easy about using an easy out

Words of wisdom right there....

[SonofWWIIDI]

To use an easy out, there would have to be a hole drilled through the center of the screw or screw head. From my experience, "easy out" is an oxymoron.
Aint nutten easy about using an easy out, lol.

Words of wisdom right there....

Just a suggestion and another avenue to explore in order to solve the problem.

While I am certain that my experience with them pales in comparison to your own, the possibility that it might be a viable solution is there. Is it not?

And frankly, wouldn't it be worth a try?

[johnthomas]

If all else fails and no other solution is available, it would be worth a try. I didn't mean any offense to your suggestion, when we are all thinking and suggesting, it could only help.

[kcstott]

Just a suggestion and another avenue to explore in order to solve the problem.

While I am certain that my experience with them pales in comparison to your own, the possibility that it might be a viable solution is there. Is it not?

And frankly, wouldn't it be worth a try?

The problem is most Browning's have European style fillister heads. which means a shallow but extra large diameter head, super fine threads and slot so thin a little bit of dirt could fill it in and you'd never know.

Browning's take very special drivers that have to be special ordered or ground to fit. This ain't a Rem, Mossberg, AR, or any run or the mill firearm put together with cap screws, This is a closer then most rendition of what european quality is like. and you just can't use you Craftsman Christmas gift to take it apart. if you do you will be paying someone to put it back together.