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  • natedogg1777
    Member
    • Nov 2006
    • 286

    bead blasting...

    Just curious to know if bead blasting the slide on my Sig P6 is a good idea. I think it will look nice, but do I need to coat the slide with something afterwards to protect from rust, etc. or will it be fine just the way it is?
  • #2
    Sig226
    Member
    • Dec 2005
    • 459

    Ok, I far from a professional on the subject, however bead blasting, I am told, leaves the surface too smooth for a good protector (paint, etc) to take hold.

    I personally use Aluminum Oxide for my parts blasting needs.

    I would *not* leave it bare after stripping. Oxidation will eat it alive...
    "The right "to carry arms in the militia for the purpose of killing game" is worthy of the mad hatter. Thus, these purposive qualifying phrases positively establish that "to bear arms" is not limited to military use." - Justice Scalia
    -Heller v. District of Columbia

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    • #3
      LB21
      Member
      • Aug 2008
      • 158

      You could try clear duracoat after you blast.

      Comment

      • #4
        Artery
        Member
        • Oct 2008
        • 280

        If it aint broke...

        After you blast you'll need to coat the slide with something (obviously) but bear in mind you'll have to pick a coating that can withstand the heat and friction associated with a moving slide.

        Also, You must disassemble the slide completely before blasting. I've never tried completely stripping my P229, but it looks like it wouldn't be fun. IMO its really not a good idea, you're liable to get glass, AlO, or whatever blasting medium you use in the small parts of the gun (firing pin channel comes to mind) which will be difficult to remove. Blasting will also remove a very small amount of material, with the amount varying depending on the material being blasted and the material being used to blast.

        Paintability is a function of the blaster being used and the material being blasted and blasted with.

        Andddd you will never be able to remove whatever coating is applied from the factory to the hidden cavities of the slide with blasting. Then you apply duracoat or whatever, tolerances begin to stack up. Bluing may be a better option than duracoat. When the gun was designed, it was designed for the thickness of the bluing process, which is very very little compared to the thickness of duracoat, paint, etc. I'm not sure if you intend to have it appear like bare steel or you wish to color it. The firing pin cavity keeps coming to mind as a potential problem area.

        Anyway, I wouldn't do it, but I've never tried blasting gun parts. I'm sure a good gunsmith could shed some light on the subject.
        Last edited by Artery; 12-03-2008, 10:05 AM.
        Long time Garand shooter, recent AR convert
        Fast is fine, accuracy is final. You got to learn to shoot slow, real fast...

        WTB: Sig (or MGW) Sight pusher

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        • #5
          natedogg1777
          Member
          • Nov 2006
          • 286

          Good info so far guys, thank you.

          What would be a good alternative then just to get the "look" of stainless steel? There was a CG'er a while back when the P6 craze started that had a black frame, stainless slide, and then wood grips and it looked incredible! It's really that look that I'm going for - of course, as simple and inexpensively as possible.

          Thanks,

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          • #6
            sorensen440
            Calguns Addict
            • Mar 2007
            • 8611

            Originally posted by natedogg1777
            Good info so far guys, thank you.

            What would be a good alternative then just to get the "look" of stainless steel? There was a CG'er a while back when the P6 craze started that had a black frame, stainless slide, and then wood grips and it looked incredible! It's really that look that I'm going for - of course, as simple and inexpensively as possible.

            Thanks,
            You might like one of the stainless like duracoat colors
            "I would rather be exposed to the inconveniences attending too much liberty than to those attending too small a degree of it." - Thomas Jefferson

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            • #7
              Dirtbiker
              Veteran Member
              • Dec 2007
              • 2810

              I have a P6 that was gun koted od green and it functions perfect. It all depends who is doing the work.
              To compel a man to subsidize with his taxes the propagation of ideas which he disbelieves and abhors is sinful and tyrannical.

              Thomas Jefferson

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              • #8
                Artery
                Member
                • Oct 2008
                • 280

                Originally posted by Dirtbiker
                I have a P6 that was gun koted od green and it functions perfect. It all depends who is doing the work.
                Definitely
                Long time Garand shooter, recent AR convert
                Fast is fine, accuracy is final. You got to learn to shoot slow, real fast...

                WTB: Sig (or MGW) Sight pusher

                Comment

                • #9
                  Tho_Sun
                  Senior Member
                  • Dec 2007
                  • 807

                  Hey guys,

                  I'm thinking about either polishing or bead blasting my mosin bolt to give it a nice finish. Will that affect head spacing? I understand for a slide it would be wise to put a finish on it. Is it necessary for the bolt? I've seen revolvers that were bead blasted, not too sure if they were finished again after.
                  Need Ammo Prices? Check the thread. If you have better prices and the link to the shop, let me know and I'll change things up. So far I only got pistol ammo~
                  http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/s....php?p=1580363

                  WTS/T HS prevision stock and bows.
                  http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/s...6#post18731106

                  WTB Baby eagle 9mm frame safety,Mateba, Encore Frame or with 7.62x54r setup

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