Silicone spray for case lube?

[reckoner]

Anyone use silicone spray for case lube? I have some WD-40 Specialist Silicone spray lying around, and I'd like to use it if I can.

I've heard good things, one of which is that you don't really need to remove it after loading. I've even read that some match shooters will give their match ammo a light spray to help with feeding.

My main concern is how it might affect the powder or primers.

Thoughts?

[Divernhunter]

No.
You do not want lube on loaded ammo as the walls of the brass need to grip the chamber when it is fired to prevent too much back force on the bolt. The brass expands and grips when fired than as pressure drops it contracts a bit thus allowing you to remove it from the rifle.

The main component of WD-40 is fish oil and it might also be in the one you suggest.

Do yourself a favor and do not try to re-invent the wheel. Case lube is not that costly especially when making little bombs that you set off next to your face.

[Germz]

No.
You do not want lube on loaded ammo as the walls of the brass need to grip the chamber when it is fired to prevent too much back force on the bolt. The brass expands and grips when fired than as pressure drops it contracts a bit thus allowing you to remove it from the rifle.

The main component of WD-40 is fish oil and it might also be in the one you suggest.

Do yourself a favor and do not try to re-invent the wheel. Case lube is not that costly especially when making little bombs that you set off next to your face.

Bingo. If you don't want to remove case lube after sizing, use Hornady One Shot. I've saturated the living hell out of cases and loaded them up; have yet to have an ignition failure.

[reckoner]

No.
You do not want lube on loaded ammo as the walls of the brass need to grip the chamber when it is fired to prevent too much back force on the bolt. The brass expands and grips when fired than as pressure drops it contracts a bit thus allowing you to remove it from the rifle.

The main component of WD-40 is fish oil and it might also be in the one you suggest.

Do yourself a favor and do not try to re-invent the wheel. Case lube is not that costly especially when making little bombs that you set off next to your face.

I'm pretty sure the fish oil thing is urban legend.

Looking at the MSDS for the WD-40 Silicone, it looks like it's 60-80% LVP solvent, 10-30% propellant, and 5% PDMS. I'm guessing everything but the small amount of PDMS evaporates off.

[stilly]

I thought WD was a W.ater D.issapater and thus not a lubricant.

Either way it is more costly than regular case lube or even making your own. I would stay away from it, plus who knows how long it will take whatever is in it to gum up on you after sitting for who knows how long.

Pass Bro, I happen to agree with Divernhunter and Germz as well.

I mean, yo it is YOUR ammo and YOUR firearms and YOUR body, but I would certainly pass.

[reckoner]

Please keep in mind that I'm not talking about the blue can WD-40. This is WD-40 Specialist Silicone spray, and it has a completely different formulation.

I decided to load up a couple hundred using the silicone. I'll shoot 100 tomorrow, and I'll shoot the other 100 in 6 months or so and see how it holds up. For science!

I will say that I only gave the cases a very light coat, and while it was enough to make a huge difference when sizing, the cases don't feel all that slick or wet when compared to other spray lubes I've used or WD-40.

[JagerDog]

I gather this is a straight side pistol round with carbide dies {no lube required). Most anything will make them run a bit smoother. Soaps work pretty well.

When loading a cal which requires lube, I'd stick to appropriate lubes which are designed for high pressure. Silicone isn't that animal.

Silicone has a habit of ending up everywhere (microscopically) and being difficult to completely remove. Personally I'd keep it away from my reloading bench. I also keep petroleum based products away from the bench for the most part.

[reckoner]

I gather this is a straight side pistol round with carbide dies {no lube required). Most anything will make them run a bit smoother.

Yes, this is for 9mm.

When loading a cal which requires lube, I'd stick to appropriate lubes which are designed for high pressure. Silicone isn't that animal.

Silicone has a habit of ending up everywhere (microscopically) and being difficult to completely remove. Personally I'd keep it away from my reloading bench. I also keep petroleum based products away from the bench.

Yeah, that's definitely something to consider. I use silicone lubricants at work in the lab, and that stuff definitely gets everywhere.

[Whiterabbit]

The literature all suggests that lube on loaded ammo will excacerbate pressure signs.

Real literature, not internet 'literature'.

[Lead Waster]

Someone suggested lanolin and 99% rubbing alcohol, not sure the proportions, as a home made spray.

I bought some, but am still going through a can of One Shot.

[uechikid]

Here's a recipe I found and use. You should be able to make a quart of this for under $10. Safeway sells the 99% alcohol.

A solution of 1 part liquid lanolin and 4 to 5 parts parts 99 percent isopropyl alcohol (4 oz of liquid lanolin to16 - 20 oz of isopropyl) works well. When mixing you may find that the lanolin mixes better if you warm both the alcohol and lanolin in a bath of warm water to about 105 - 110 degrees F before mixing. DO NOT WARM EITHER OF THEM OVER AN OPEN FLAME! Once the solutions are warm, pour together, mix thoroughly, allow the mix to cool (mix occasionally as it cools) and store in an air tight container to prevent water from being absorbed by the isopropyl.
Here's where I got this recipe.

[reckoner]

Does anyone have a link with data that quantifies exactly how much bolt thrust is increased with lubed cases? I buy that it would increase bolt thrust, but I'm not convinced that the increase is significant. I just haven't seen the data to back it up. But I'm all for being proven wrong.

[sl0re10]

Its also hard to control so you end up with more hydraulic damage / dents in your case necks...

I'll +1 that regular paste lube lasts a really long time so its cheaper than it seems. I have a small tin of imperial and I've only used a small fraction of it... but have processed a lot of brass with it.

[sl0re10]

Does anyone have a link with data that quantifies exactly how much bolt thrust is increased with lubed cases? I buy that it would increase bolt thrust, but I'm not convinced that the increase is significant. I just haven't seen the data to back it up. But I'm all for being proven wrong.

PS
Also not all lube is the same... Tula and Wolf put something on their steel to help get it out of the chamber. A lot of people here (myself included) use nufunish to polish and prevent tarnish on their brass (also a lubricant... as a side effect)... but a really good lubricant could be a problem... whereas some more mild ones are not.

[Whiterabbit]

data? nope!