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Como o por que
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Can you tell me?
I am new to reloading J-cat, so I don't want to make this same mistake. So far I have only reloaded 45acp and 380 auto but plan on reloading rifle ammo as well in the near future. As soon as I get my Trim It as a a matter of fact. So can you explain it to me? What shell holder should be used when you full length size? And what signs should I look for in the brass case? Thank you.Comment
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My cousin let one of his coworkers shoot my rifle. I'm not 100% sure if the ammo used was factory or reloads. I came to assist with what seemed to be a double feed malfunction and upon clearing the rifle the separated casing dropped through the mag well.
I have no experience with reloading and wasn't the shooter if that matters.
What would I be looking for though in terms of ammo being safe to shoot ?Comment
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Well.....
My cousin let one of his coworkers shoot my rifle. I'm not 100% sure if the ammo used was factory or reloads. I came to assist with what seemed to be a double feed malfunction and upon clearing the rifle the separated casing dropped through the mag well.
I have no experience with reloading and wasn't the shooter if that matters.
What would I be looking for though in terms of ammo being safe to shoot ?
Well I am new to reloading, but have been shooting all of my life. Any factory ammo is going to be safe in your weapon as long as the caliber listed on the ammo is the same as that required by the weapon. As far as reloads go, I have learned here on Calguns through reading the posts of the more experienced reloaders, to never shoot reloads that you didn't reload yourself.Comment
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The same thing can happen in 1 firing if the rifle in question has too much head space. usually though, it happens over several firings though. The case stretches, then you push the shoulder back upon resizing. Then the case stretches again upon the next firing and so on. One way to check is to use a wire or paper clip to feel inside the case in the head area. You can sometimes see it from the outside though to clue you in. here is a picture to get the idea.
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seaweed
After a number of reloads, or full length sizings, sometimes a "bright" ring appears in the area of the thinning brass near the base of the case. --
Using the "paper clip" procedure this thin area can usually be felt --
When it happens is dependent on several variables , including brass quality, chamber size and die size --
Cases like 303 br often have a short reloading life due to large chambers and sizing them back to spec over works the brass --
I have no idea what a "standard" shellholder has to do with it -
my tuppenceComment
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Shiny rings around the circumference of the case body.I am new to reloading J-cat, so I don't want to make this same mistake. So far I have only reloaded 45acp and 380 auto but plan on reloading rifle ammo as well in the near future. As soon as I get my Trim It as a a matter of fact. So can you explain it to me? What shell holder should be used when you full length size? And what signs should I look for in the brass case? Thank you.
When you FL size blindly using a standard shell holder you are bumping the shoulder too much. This causes too much headspace and in turn too much case stretch upon firing. When the case stretches it forms a thin spot as pictured above. That thin spot looks like a shiny ring on the outside. When that thin spot gets too thin the case lets go.
To minimize case stretch you should FL size but not bump the shoulder all the way back, just enough to be able to close the bolt. On an AR you want an additional .004" of clearance for reliable functioning, but not the .010"+ that FL sizing all the way induces.Comment
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You need a method to measure the shoulder lengths of your fired and sized cases.I am new to reloading J-cat, so I don't want to make this same mistake. So far I have only reloaded 45acp and 380 auto but plan on reloading rifle ammo as well in the near future. As soon as I get my Trim It as a a matter of fact. So can you explain it to me? What shell holder should be used when you full length size? And what signs should I look for in the brass case? Thank you.
On a semi-auto, you only need to be moving the shoulder back 0.002" from the fired case dimensions.
I recommend the RCBS precision mic as it is the most repeatable method I have found to measure shoulder lengths.
There are other tools like the Hornady that use calipers, but those types of tools are generally not as repeatable.
The actual shellholder you use is not nearly as important as how you adjust the die.
The instructions included with dies are usually not accurate as they do not take into account the chamber dimensions of the rifle that you will be shooting the ammo in.
If you are only sizing your shoulders 0.002", the cases will last a long time.
When you start bumping shoulders back 0.005" to 0.008", you will get case separations after a few firing/sizing cycles.
The instructions in most reloading manuals and included with most dies will be bumping the shoulders back 0.004" and more.Last edited by ar15barrels; 09-09-2014, 8:49 PM.Randall Rausch
AR work: www.ar15barrels.com
Handguns: www.handgunbarrels.com
Bolt actions: www.700barrels.com
Foreign Semi Autos: www.akbarrels.com
Most work done while you wait on a scheduled shop visit.Comment
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Redding Competition Shell Holder Set contains 5 shell holders that are incrementally taller than standard in .002" increments. You start with the +.010" shell holder and proceed down until the desired headspace is reached. I'm currently using the +.004" shell holder with my die set.
I'm not comfortable with bumping the shoulder back only .002" for a semi auto. Cases spring back to various degrees even within the same lot. You want some wiggle room there.Comment
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if this happened durring a walker attack you are screwed...7 Billion people on the planet. They aint ALL gonna astronauts. Some will get hit by trains...
Need GOOD SS pins to clean your brass? Try the new and improved model...

And remember- 99.9% of the lawyers ruin it for the other .1%...Comment
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