Which caliber offers the most savings when reloading?

[blockfort]

--- UPDATE ---

I had 30 cents and 15 cents for 45 and 9mm respectively, but those numbers were wrong. They are now correct at 16 and 12 cents each

--- /update ---

I just got my first 223 and bought 1000 rounds of pmc bronze because reloading seemed like it would cost the same at around $0.30 a round. I know reloads are better quality, but I don't care about that yet.

I make my 308 for about $0.50, my 45 for $0.16, and my 9mm for about $0.12

Just curious, are some rounds just cheaper to buy? What saves the most over factory loaded?

[not-fishing]

Easy Barns , Nosler or other copper Hunting rounds.

I forget how much I saved by loading my own hunting rounds with Barnes TSX for 300 Wby.

Then I was looking at a hunting rifle in 7x61 Sharp and Hart.

It's the really exotic stuff that you save and loose on because it opens up a whole new range of firearms you can buy. .338 Norma, .470 Nitro Express, .338-06-Ackley Improved

[Waldog]

I'd say, generally speaking, the more common the cartridge, the cheaper it will be to buy. For example, a box of 30.06 Springfield rounds is going to be significantly cheaper than a box of 300 Weatherby Magnum rounds. You are going to save the most reloading uncommon cartridges.
HOWEVER, your still going to save 30%-70% over factory by reloading even then the most common cartridges. I can reload 100 rounds of 9mm for about $12.00 (using reclaimed brass.), where 100 rounds of factory 9mm is going to run about $32-$36.

How much you save is directly dependent on how you buy components. You save MUCH more buy buying BULK.i.e. 8 lbs powder, 5000 primers sleeve, bullets by the case of 3000-4000. OR, casting lead bullets with reclaimed lead.

[CSACANNONEER]

There's no way to name one cartridge that will save more money than another. It really depends on how one buys components and what components are being used. Since I cast my own bullets, I can load most handgun cartridges from .25acp to .44mag/.45LC for about $2.50-$3.50/box. I can load .308, 7.5x55, 30-06, etc. for as little as .15 cents a round using frangible bullets I bought for 3 cents each and reclaimed surplus powder. Hell, I can reload 50BMG for well under $1/round using pulled surplus bullets and reclaimed powder. OTOH, my "match" 50 loads cost around $3-$3.25 each. My lead free hunting rounds for .308, 7.5x55, 30-06, etc. run over a buck a piece.

There isn't any ammo that is cheaper to buy than reload if you are talking comparable components and quality.

[MrElectric03]

The more rare the round the more you will save. Biggest issue is finding brass usually and I find that is the biggest variable in loading. For example I shoot a lot of .30-.30 Winchester, I bought 375 peices of brass for under $0.10 a case and there are guys selling it on here for anywhere from $0.17 to $0.27 each for brass which really isn't hard to come by. When you get into hard to find brass you can mostly ask whatever you want.

[BigBronco]

Go price .41 magnum or 45LC at $50.00 + a box. I load them for about $8.00 or $12.00 with Premium hollow points.

I agree with CSA when I cast my bullets I can load 38 or .44 special for about $3.00 a box or less. .357 or .44 magnum is just a wee bit more powder. Keep in mind that casting takes more time. For many time is money. I enjoy it as an off time hobby.

[stilly]

I just got my first 223 and bought 1000 rounds of pmc bronze because reloading seemed like it would cost the same at around $0.30 a round. I know reloads are better quality, but I don't care about that yet.

I make my 308 for about $0.50, my 45 for $0.30, and my 9mm for about $0.15.

Just curious, are some rounds just cheaper to buy? What saves the most over factory loaded?

Damn you are getting ripped off...

I make my .45 for, well, NOT .30 that is for sure. But I make a box of 50 .44 Mag for about $9.70 A box of 9mm runs me about $4.50 and I think a box of .45 will run just a buck or two more than that.

If you want to get your prices down you just gotta ONLY think like a costco executive and ALWAYS buy in bulk... That includes powder as well. When I find powder that I like, I will ask a friend or two and if they want nothing, then I buy it all myself and put prices on it for when someone else wants to buy.

Usually though the best savings will come from the more larger/powerful calibers. The more RARE or powerful the best prices to be had building your own.

Making the switch from J-word pills to plated pills or CAST will save you a chunk of change too. If you buy the raw lead and cast your own, THAT is the biggest savings. Then the plated or the PC pills are the cheapest, then the other stuff...

[45R]

.223 with standard 55 FMJ I am reloading at 23 cents or so per round.
.308 match using 175 SMK is around 53 cents per round with match primers

[rg1]

I save the most loading calibers such as my 300 Weatherby. Factory rounds can cost as much as $60 per box of 20. I can load the same premium bullets for much less. Any caliber not commonly owned is more expensive. You still save loading common calibers such as 9MM, 40SW, 45ACP, .223, .308, or 30-06. Today's factory ammo is hard to match for accuracy but I still enjoy reloading and trust my loads and appreciate the savings I get. I can add to my inventory without major expense when I watch for deals and buy in bulk.

[krwada]

for me .... reloading is all about shooting more.

So cost savings is really measured by how many rounds I can send down range vs. the money I spend making those rounds.

For me ... reloading time is entertainment time... Therefore, I do not factor in labor costs when I DO ANYTHING FIREARMS.

1. Always buy components in bulk.
2. Lead is always cheaper than jacketed, (pistol)
3. Casting your own is cheaper than lead
4. Always take advantage of any opportunities, (blemished projectiles for example) ... DON'T WAIT! ... BUY!
5. FMJ is usually cheaper, (1000's qty), than HP, HPBT, match or game rounds
6. Only expect modest accuracy with the cheap stuff
7. You will save, (relative costs), with the expensive match grade stuff. You will get better performance and it will cost less than match grade factory ammo
8. The largest percentage component costs for pistol is usually the projectile
9. The largest percentage component costs for rifle is usually split evenly between projectile and powder
10. The more effort you put into case, (brass) prep ... in general ... the better performance your ammo will be.

One more thing ... Take some time to do your homework ... Know your costs!

For example:

- For 55 grain .223 plain jane FMJ, or surplus ... anything under $0.10 per projectile is a decent price
- For 230 grain .45 ACP, cast lead, or plated lead ... anything under $0.12 per projectile is a decent price
- For 150 grain .308 plain jane FMJ, or surplus ... anything under $0.20 per projectile is pretty good
- For 150 to 168 grain .308 HPBT, match grade ... anything under $0.30 per projectile .... you better whip out your card and buy!

[rm1911]

Which caliber offers the most savings when reloading?

I dunno. Let's see if I can sort of price it out.

9mm

http://www.natchezss.com/product.cfm?contentID=productDetail&prodID=CC0014&src=tpSlrHm

SPP $36.49 / 1000

Powder (not in stock but normally $20/lb. 1lb powder contains 7000 grains. Most 9mm loads use 5-6gr powder. So 1k would use 3/4th a pound.

Bullets
Xtreme 115 RN

http://www.xtremebullets.com/9mm-115-RN-p/xc9mm-115rn-b0500.htm

$35.72/500


Per 1000 rounds
Primers $37
Powder $15
Bullets $72
Total $124

Throw in shipping and hazmat...but it depends on how much you bought. A 10lb powder order splits hazmat over more so per round is less. Let's throw another $15 for both.

So now total is around $140 per 1k. $0.14/rd

45 will only be more for bullets.

http://www.xtremebullets.com/45-230-RN-p/xc45-230rn-b0500.htm

230 RN $54.12

So let's add $40 to total. $180 per 1k. $0.18/rd.

But you have to look at reloading as much more than just saving a few dollars. Because over time you will but you won't. You will shoot more.

However, what reloading does is give you peace of mind .

[J-cat]

Don't reload to save money. Reload to save the children.

['ol shooter]

I think I save the most per round on .454 Casull and .444 Marlin, but because I shoot a lot more of them, the .45 Colt, ACP, and 9mm are a big savings over buying ammo. I think I'm up to 18 calibers I load for at this time.

[pdq_wizzard]

I think for me I save the most on .45ACP, (cast my own bullets) 30.06 and 6.8SPC

[emptybottle151]

Showing off targets shot by from homemade ammunition out of homemade firearms makes you the most interesting person and a dinner party.
Its a hobby really.