Reloading newbie seeking die advice

[Bumslie]

Quick and dirty test for too little, I've done that as well.

I haven't personally received a fixed factory die that put on too much neck tension, but that comment I made was more of an example... though it could happen with bushing dies, but IMO if you are using bushing dies you should already have a firm understanding of neck tension and why you would want to use bushing dies.

Well yes, if using a bushing die, you should have a firm understanding.

Someone who is new To reloading won't be starting with one right away

[ExtremeX]

You can adjust any press to remove linkage slop and frame flex. To do this you raise the ram, screw the die against the shell holder, then lower the ram and give the die another full turn. That way the die bottoms out against the shell holder every time and you feel it. You also feel the shoulder being bumped.

[J-cat]

I didn't say the feel is the same as the camover "pop".

I said you will be able to feel the die bottom out against the shell holder and also feel the shoulder being bumped.

[Spyguy]

Ok, I'm finally getting an understanding of the geometry of case neck sizing. The neck tension is determined by the internal diameter of the sized case neck in relation to the external diameter of the bullet. So we want to control the internal diameter of the case neck. The problem is how to set that internal diameter given that the thickness of the neck can vary from one lot of cases to another.

A normal resizing die must consider the thinnest possible neck wall and compress the neck down so that the internal neck diameter (on brass of the thinnest neck wall) is at the correct size to grip the bullet. If the brass has a neck wall thickness that is thicker than the minimum specification, then the neck internal diameter will be too small. To correct this, an expanding ball is pulled through the neck to get the internal diameter back to the correct size in relation to the bullet outside diameter (for correct bullet tension).

So the purpose of a neck bushing die is basically to account for variances in brass neck wall thickness to allow the neck to be compressed the minimum amount to restore proper bullet tension. With the right combination of case neck wall thickness and bushing size, then the internal diameter will be set correctly without needing the ball to re-expand the neck.

This is a compelling argument for bushing-type sizing dies. The question is, do they offer enough practical advantage for a semi-auto reloader to justify their additional expense.

[ExtremeX]

Sounds you like you have substantially better handle of whats going on here.

Regards to your comments about variances in the brass neck wall thickness…

Assuming there is nothing terribly wrong with the brass… A normal sizing die doesn’t really care about variances in neck wall thickness, the second you pull that expander ball though it, its sized correctly. The biggest difference compared to a bushing die is that it works the brass more when you do this. As long as you are getting the correct neck tension, all is well. From my experience, I get consistent results.

Bushing dies on the other hand would take into account the thickness of neck walls (and variances) when sizing. If you have variances in brass thickness, it would affect the final result.
Redding bushing dies do have an expander button… but you can choose not to use them. They are there to maintain consistent neck tension if the case necks have not been turned to a uniform wall thickness. Personally I don’t turn my necks, too lazy, so I prefer to use dies with an expander ball.

I can see the need if you turns neck, benchrest level prep, run really expensive brass or exotic calibers where you need to extend case life even more. Then again you can always anneal the brass after a few firings to renew it. For common stuff like .223 and .308 I just toss the brass when it nears end of life. Ill care more for my 308 Lapua cases and 6.5 Creedmoor cases since they are harder to source and cost more.

[ExtremeX]

I know you are new, but honestly you are over-thinking or complicating it. Just start with a standard die set, like the RCBS FL 2 die set… it’s not like they cost a fortune at $25. See how they run, and see what the results are like and go from there. If you get to a point in your reloading where you see a need for better stuff, buy it. You might love the FL sizing die and only want to upgrade the seating die...

Since I started loading I ended up with like 3+ different 223 die sets, and all of them still get use. Don’t be afraid to overlap. I have standard FL dies, bushing dies kit, two competition seating dies RCBS Gold Medal just for the bullet feeding feature and the Forster Ultra Mictrometer because it has a seating stem which matches VLD bullets better. Along with Lee Neck Dies and Redding Body dies.

Some dies I just leave setup for certain rifles or presses… makes my life easier. Plus some work better than others for certain things.