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Jumping into reloading, have some questions
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Regarding media: What media you use is your preference, but with whatever you use, consider NuFinish Polish. I use it with walnut media and it helps shorten cleaning times and improves the end result significantly. I change media about every 2500 rounds or so, depends on how dirty the brass is. Outdoor range pickups tend to be dirtier than indoor... You'll know it needs changing when it takes 8 hours+ to clean cases vs 3 to 5.Thanks for all the responses! Really helping me out here.
Do I have to clean dry media or do I just replace it and at what rate?
Can I reload nickel plated .45ACP from Speer gold dot? Not sure how the plating will hold up over resizing.
You've convinced me to go with the 650. Get the hang of it with one case at a time
I'll start with 45acp
I'll use a vibrator
I'll get a manual or three.
Then get the necessities for rifle stuff soon after.
I have about 3000 .45ACP brass to get started with. Once fired Winchester, federal, and CCI.
Thanks again!
About your 3000 cases: Make sure you inspect each primer pocket before it goes into the press. You'll find that some will be small primer cases. If you throw the handle and the primer won't seat on its first attempt, don't force it, it can detonate in the press.
SPP .45acp shoots just fine and you don't have to change anything with your recipe other than the primer. Point is, don't throw the .45acp SPP brass away, just toss them into a coffee can and when you get some small primers, batch load them. I bought a full 5 gallon bucket of .45 brass and have come across a couple of hundred so far. Of course, if you don't want to reload them, I'll gladly take them off your hands.
I just separate them and load as I collect a 100 or so.
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1) Are those powder hopper/delivery systems good? do I have to do a quality check every 30 rounds or so?
the more you recheck the safer you will be, you want to be safe correct?
2) How do I know if I need to use lube?
when resizing if you feel the case getting stuck, you need to force things, or it gets sticky then yes you will need lube. I found the bigger the caliber, the more often it will need to be lubed.
The four stations say:
Station 1) resize/deprime/prime
Station 2) powder drop/flare
Station 3) seat
Station 4) crimp
3) Do I need to trim?
after resizing you need to check to make sure all your cases are still within the safe over-all length specified for your case. If you see some longer than others and accuracy is important then yes trim to uniform lengths.
4) For 5.56, I need to use a swage primer pocket? What is that? never had to swage ever before and i have loaded thousands of rounds. i find it very difficult to "deform" a primer pocket unless it came out of round when it was new.
5) Should I get a dry or wet tumbler or vibrator? vibratory tumbler unless you want to sit and wait till they are all dry.
6) How do I know if I want large/small primers and what type of powder do I want? So many kinds! (I'll be getting manuals, but I assume you all make powder choices based on something else).
your primer pocket in your cases will let you know what you need.
Thanks! Hope to be posting pictures of my reloading area soon

and yes, please post pictures and good luck.

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Great info.
Thanks Tamalpias and DiveRN.
I have looked over many of my 45acp casings and so far all Winchester (WWB) and CCI blazer brass are large primer while the my american eagle federal fmj is small primer
I can get CCI primers now. Should I stock up or just buy some and wait for some federal primers to become available to stock up?Comment
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You're welcome. Are you looking at reloading as a long term endeavor?Great info.
Thanks Tamalpias and DiveRN.
I have looked over many of my 45acp casings and so far all Winchester (WWB) and CCI blazer brass are large primer while the my american eagle federal fmj is small primer
I can get CCI primers now. Should I stock up or just buy some and wait for some federal primers to become available to stock up?
If so, laying in some inventory now (assuming you have space to store stuff) is never a bad idea because the price is only going to go up in the future. If you find a smokin' deal on ANYTHING related to reloading, it's probably not a bad idea to buy it. Someone, somewhere will eventually have a need/want for it and you might be able to trade or sell it to your benefit.
And you don't need federal primers specifically. Brass and primers don't need to match. I have CCI, Federal, Winchester, and a few boxes of Tulas. (not a fan of the Tulas, have had several failure-to-go-booms with those)Last edited by diveRN; 12-20-2013, 7:17 PM.
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Yes I plan on reloading a bunch.You're welcome. Are you looking at reloading as a long term endeavor?
If so, laying in some inventory now (assuming you have space to store stuff) is never a bad idea because the price is only going to go up in the future. If you find a smokin' deal on ANYTHING related to reloading, it's probably not a bad idea to buy it. Someone, somewhere will eventually have a need/want for it and you might be able to trade or sell it to your benefit.
And you don't need federal primers specifically. Brass and primers don't need to match. I have CCI, Federal, Winchester, and a few boxes of Tulas. (not a fan of the Tulas, have had several failure-to-go-booms with those)
I figure with the cost of the equipment at $1000, I need to reload 100,000 rounds to make the equipment cost contribution $0.01/round
At 10,000 rounds, the equipment cost contribution is $0.10/round.
So if I buy 5000 primers right now, I'm not even close to what any numbers I need.
I know I don't need to match primer to brass but I've read Federal is better than CCI so I figured I might get more of that.
So for .30-06 I need large rifle primers and .223/5.56 I need small rifle primers.
Primers are pretty straight forward I gather.
Of course my equipment cost will probably grow with the addition of more presses/dies/accessories/support equipment. Just a general idea of numbers.Comment
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Are these good bullets to start out with?
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I'd recommend a single stage press to start out, it'll produce rifle ammo at a decent rate and you'll be able to keep track of things better and gain experience. Even if you have a progressive, there will still be things that a single press is better for, IE forming 223 to 300AAC and magnum rifle loading.
I also really like my universal decapping die. After a trip to the range I can put all the brass through it before tumbling so the primer pocket gets cleaned somewhat too - and it ensures I'll never break a decapping pin on my sizing dies. That's especially true for brass with crimped primer pockets.
I ream the edge of crimped primer pockets with a casemouth chamfer tool and that works fine.
The berry's 45's at graf and sons are comparable and cheaper than the ones at midway, and the $6 flat rate shipping at grafs makes a big difference when you buy 20lbs of bullets.
If you are shooting an automatic 223, you'll want small rifle magnum primers or small rifle military primers to lessen the chance of slam-fires.Comment
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Frozenguy, Be aware that .45 ACP may use large or small primers. If you have bought range brass, you may have to sort them out. Small primers are relatively new to .45 ACP, but they are out there. Also your cost analysis is wrong, you need to figure how much 100,00 rounds of factory would cost vs. 100,000 rounds at your reloaded costs. You could save .10 per round with the right components. The true reason most of us reload is to produce better ammo. You can make your ammo
A. cheaper
B. more accurate
C. better suited to your needs
D. available at any time
Welcome to the club.Comment
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