Jumping into reloading, have some questions

[Frozenguy]

I did some searching and I think it's time for some questions and then maybe some more searching.

I want to reload .45ACP, 5.56/.223, and .30-06
Priority in that order.

I'm looking at the Dillon RL 550B on the dillon website. It says dies are not included but then you pick a caliber conversion kit? What is that exactly? I thought the 550B came with a set of dies. Do I just purchase the set of 4 dies? I think I want the carbide ones. I assume they last longer and I think I read that maybe you don't have to use lube with them.

1) Are those powder hopper/delivery systems good? do I have to do a quality check every 30 rounds or so?

2) How do I know if I need to use lube?

The four stations say:
Station 1) resize/deprime/prime
Station 2) powder drop/flare
Station 3) seat
Station 4) crimp

3) Do I need to trim?
4) For 5.56, I need to use a swage primer pocket? What is that
5) Should I get a dry or wet tumbler or vibrator?

6) How do I know if I want large/small primers and what type of powder do I want? So many kinds! (I'll be getting manuals, but I assume you all make powder choices based on something else).


Thanks! Hope to be posting pictures of my reloading area soon

[the86d]

Get a vibrator.
Then get a vibratory tumbler if that works out well.

The stainless-tumbling is not worth it for many with all the extra work involved, nor the time it takes, or with dry-times, but others swear by it.

If you get an XL650, you can crank out many more rounds per hour, even if you skip on the case-feeder, you can drop them in the tube until you can afford it. For the $100 dollar difference, I would (and did) go with the XL 650.

You do need to trim, depending on the once-fired brass, maybe after the 1st firing. Go with whatever trimmer you want, don't get the press-attached trimmer, unless you can afford it at the get-go, but you can get the press-attached one later ("my plan" too).

You DO need to swage military brass (and some non-military) crimped primer pockets exist. Reaming the crimp is another option, but CAN decrease the primer-pocket/brass life.

Powder: whatever you can get for starters, just research, and don' t start by loading max-loads... Most people cannot get the powder they want right now, so we get what we get. Try to get some "fluffy" stuff for starters, this will "HELP" prevent double charging for a new reloader.

IF you are going with a vibratory tumbler, make sure to get some mineral spirits... and add a cap-full to the cob. I personally don't tumble at all with walnut, as my lady is allergic to even the shells.
If you are going with a Dillon tumbler, and plan on shooting , then go with the bigger Dillon's CV-2001. I wish I did, for the extra $40.

I lube everything that goes into the press if it is being sized.

Make sure you don't load pistol powder in rifle-cases... Kaboom!

[clipofblanks]

I always lube. Trim as needed, I throw all the resized brass on the trimmer to check. Check every 5 to 10th bullet for quality control. The gravity Fed powder is really reliable. Dies usually come separate from presses. Swag die is needed, swag after primer is pushed out. Swag opens the primer pocket so new primer can go in. Some brass requires it, depends if manufacture crimped the pocket,( you can tell difference after awhile) get a reload manual ,have fun

[diveRN]

I'm loading on a single stage currently, it's enough for my needs. The following are just my answers to your questions, others will have different ideas, I'm sure.

1) Are those powder hopper/delivery systems good? do I have to do a quality check every 30 rounds or so?

I use a hopper for everything, but I also check every 10th round when loading medium power target rounds for the pistols. Some will likely disagree, but EVERY rifle charge of mine goes on the scale. I load .223, -06, and .308

2) How do I know if I need to use lube?

I rarely lube pistol brass, I always lube rifle brass.

3) Do I need to trim?

Rifle brass yes, but .45acp, not so much. The only pistol brass I trim is the stuff I load to carry. With my SD ammunition, every case is trimmed, every charge is weighed. I load SD ammo as close to SAAMI spec as I can.

4) For 5.56, I need to use a swage primer pocket? What is that

Military rounds have crimped primers. In short, swaging the primer pocket is just the act of removing the crimped metal so a pressfit primer will go into the pocket. If you're going to load 5.56, count on doing this.

5) Should I get a dry or wet tumbler or vibrator?

Preference. I'm all about simple and use a vibratory tumbler with walnut media I get from Harbor Freight. My reloads may not glisten like factory rounds with new components, but they're clean enough and shoot well.

6) How do I know if I want large/small primers and what type of powder do I want? So many kinds! (I'll be getting manuals, but I assume you all make powder choices based on something else).

What size primer you'll need depends on the brass you're reloading. Potentially, you will need large and small for both rifle and pistol. Read, read, read, and read some more.

I would start out with and stick to reloading one cartridge like the .45acp until you get your feet under you. It's forgiving and less likely a cause a kaboom (in the gun or in the press) if you make a mistake. Once you're proficient and have some experience with it, then move on to rifle rounds.... just my .02 though.

[the86d]

I always lube. Trim as needed, I throw all the resized brass on the trimmer to check. Check every 5 to 10th bullet for quality control. The gravity Fed powder is really reliable. Dies usually come separate from presses. Swag die is needed, swag after primer is pushed out. Swag opens the primer pocket so new primer can go in. Some brass requires it, depends if manufacture crimped the pocket,( you can tell difference after awhile) get a reload manual ,have fun

Do swag dies exist for a Dillon?

[BSlacker]

It says dies are not included but then you pick a caliber conversion kit? What is that exactly? I thought the 550B came with a set of dies.

The Dillon system uses dies and conversion kits. Conversion kits adapt the caliber to the press. It includes the shell plate, little pins that space the case to the shell plate, powder dies and funnel. The die set includes a die that resizes and decaps that caliber a seat and crimp die this is separate from the conversion kit. The dies and powder dispenser sit in a tool head. Get one tool head per caliber. This will leave your dies set so you don't adjust each time you change calibers.

Do I just purchase the set of 4 dies? I think I want the carbide ones. I assume they last longer and I think I read that maybe you don't have to use lube with them.

If by 4 die sets you are including 5.56 in that number you do not need 5.56 dies the .223 will do. You need .45ACP, .223, 30-06 dies and conversion kits. Bottleneck rifle cases benefit from carbide dies and lube. Pistols cases are a toss up for me I lube sometimes. Rifle cases use lube like Imperial sizing wax every case.

Are those powder hopper/delivery systems good? do I have to do a quality check every 30 rounds or so?

Get a large and small powder system, rifle and pistol are different in the amounts and type of powder. Better is to assign a powder dispensor for each caliber it goes on the tool head and stays. I check every 20-30 rounds just in case.

How do I know if I need to use lube?

Rifle always uses lube and straight wall pistol is your call. Easier sizing but a little mess. Get a stuck case remover kit for rifle calibers.

Do I need to trim?

Pistol seldom needs trimming. Rifle will need it and there are many options. Get a case gauge for every caliber you load and use it.

For 5.56, I need to use a swage primer pocket? What is that

Most military 5.56 has the primer crimped in. There are a couple of different methods but swageing is a good way to remove the little areas that will stop the primer from going in. You can just get a little primer pocket sizer and run it in and out with a drill.

Should I get a dry or wet tumbler or vibrator?

Dry is popular. Wet gives cleaner brass. Dry works and can be shiney.

How do I know if I want large/small primers and what type of powder do I want? So many kinds! (I'll be getting manuals, but I assume you all make powder choices based on something else).

.45ACP uses large pistol and .223 uses small rifle, if using for a semi auto sporting rifle you will want to look into harder types of primers like CCI makes. 30-06 uses large rifle I think. I don't load for it.
Powder choice is time consuming. Get a couple of reloading books. You won't go wrong by starting with W231 for .45ACP. Many like Varget for .223. I don't load for 30-06 but the manuals are full of loads. Buy what you can get at this time. Until you get a chrono you are just quessing anyway. If it shoots good in your gun and is listed as a safe load in a mainstream manual then go with that. Searching for the perfect load will come later after the basics are down.

Check Brian Enos for price and service. Dillon has a very good price structure there is very little discounting. Brian Enos will give you the best price available. Ask for free shipping on your die/conversion kit order and see if they will ship the press free it saves a lot due to weight.

Good reloading!

[gemoose23]

Do swag dies exist for a Dillon?

From Dillon, it isn't a Die persay... Check out the link below on a video of Dillons super swager, modified to eject.

http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/showthread.php?t=866232

[uhlan1]

I did some searching and I think it's time for some questions and then maybe some more searching.

I want to reload .45ACP, 5.56/.223, and .30-06
Priority in that order.

I'm looking at the Dillon RL 550B on the dillon website. It says dies are not included but then you pick a caliber conversion kit? What is that exactly? I thought the 550B came with a set of dies. Do I just purchase the set of 4 dies? I think I want the carbide ones. I assume they last longer and I think I read that maybe you don't have to use lube with them.

1) Are those powder hopper/delivery systems good? do I have to do a quality check every 30 rounds or so?

2) How do I know if I need to use lube?

The four stations say:
Station 1) resize/deprime/prime
Station 2) powder drop/flare
Station 3) seat
Station 4) crimp

3) Do I need to trim?
4) For 5.56, I need to use a swage primer pocket? What is that
5) Should I get a dry or wet tumbler or vibrator?

6) How do I know if I want large/small primers and what type of powder do I want? So many kinds! (I'll be getting manuals, but I assume you all make powder choices based on something else).


Thanks! Hope to be posting pictures of my reloading area soon

I personally think it's fine to start with a progressive, but starting out I'd run it as a single stage and put one case through all the steps at a time until you get it down.

Always carbide dies.

Starting out I checked powder weight every single case. Now every 50 and check OAL every 100.

I never trim pistol brass.

I use the vibratory. Simpler, quicker. Don't really care how shiny it is as long as it's clean.

I do lube pistol brass. After cleaning and separating in the tumbler thing, I spray a little Hornady One Shot lube and give it a spin (make sure the media is removed). Takes one minute and I find the brass moves easier through the dies.

You don't state location, but if you are in an area with a reloading club might want to hook up with one. Or find someone here who can walk you through.
lots of great guys.

If you're in the San Jose/Santa Cruz area I'd be glad to help but I only load pistol at present. Can also let go of a little powder and LPP for .45 to get you started at "hoarding" cost.

Go slow at first, no speed records and be safe.

[Divernhunter]

If you are near me I would be glad to help you learn. I have several single stage presses and 2 Dillon 650's. Skip the 550 and get the 650. AND a new/used single stage. I prefer to load rifle rounds on the single stage even after many years of loading.

From your questions I see you need a manual and read it. It will answer most questions. I suggest the Lyman #49 to start with.

[Frozenguy]

Thanks for all the responses! Really helping me out here.

Do I have to clean dry media or do I just replace it and at what rate?
Can I reload nickel plated .45ACP from Speer gold dot? Not sure how the plating will hold up over resizing.

You've convinced me to go with the 650. Get the hang of it with one case at a time
I'll start with 45acp
I'll use a vibrator
I'll get a manual or three.
Then get the necessities for rifle stuff soon after.
I have about 3000 .45ACP brass to get started with. Once fired Winchester, federal, and CCI.

Thanks again!

[Frozenguy]

If you are near me I would be glad to help you learn. I have several single stage presses and 2 Dillon 650's. Skip the 550 and get the 650. AND a new/used single stage. I prefer to load rifle rounds on the single stage even after many years of loading.

From your questions I see you need a manual and read it. It will answer most questions. I suggest the Lyman #49 to start with.

Thank you for that offer! Really kind of you but I'm a few hundred miles south.
I'll look into a single stage. Why do you like it for rifle over your progressives?

[rdfact]

I hope you guys don't consider this thread-jacking...
How many times can brass such as 45 ACP be reloaded? Many places sell once fired brass and Midway also sells Starline new brass. How many times can you expect to reload a case and when do you know when a case has had enough?
Thanks.

[XDRoX]

A 45 case will last a very long time. Chances are you will lose it before it cracks. I have some 9mm brass that I've loaded over 30 times and hasn't cracked yet. Some of the brass has the headstamp practically worn off. Still shoots fine.
You'll know when a pistol case is done when it splits down the side. It's very easy to spot. A low pressured round like 45acp will last propably 50 reloads without splitting. The primer pocket will probably wear out before it splits.

[Divernhunter]

When I need brass(straight walled like 45ACP) I buy direct from Starline. Excellent brass and prices.

Take a old anti-static dryer sheet and cut it into 1/4's. put them in with you brass when cleaning. Replace with each load of brass. Greatly extends the life of the media.
Single stage for rifle rounds:
I prefer it for several reasons. I have more control/feel when using a single stage press.
I can resize then remove the lube before moving on to the next stage.
I can also trim after resizing and uniform/clean primer pockets if I desire.
I can also remove the burr from the flash hole inside the case by hand using my Lyman tool. This helps accuracy.
I also handprime. This improves accuracy and also allows me to set aside any looser primer pockets for plinking ammo.
Many of my rifle loads(especially hunting) have very full cases when the power is placed into them. It would shake out some in the progressive.
I also like to weight each powder charge for serious hunting rounds such as pig/deer/pronghorns/africa hunting.
I do just use my RCBS Uniflow for when I am doing a bunch of squirrel shooting loads. Like when I loaded 5700 rounds of 223 and 1000 rounds of 204ruger last year.
Using an old RCBS Jr press I get a better feel when seating bullets. It has less leverage than my RCBS Rockchucker. I size rifle brass on the Rockchucker.
I also use it to size pistol rounds not loaded using the Dillon unit.
I batch process my brass which makes the loading of the powder/bullet fast. I find bad weather days great for processing brass.
I prime brass while watching TV. I drop into the baggie the primer sleeve so I know what primers where used even years later. The store just fine like that.

[Sunday]

I have had a Dillon 550 since 1991 and have loaded 9mm, 38/357,40 S@W,45acp, 223, 308, 30/06,300 Weatherby mag and 338 lapua over the years the Dillon 550 is a capable basic machine. The Dillon 650 or 1050 are space ships capable of warp speeds compared to the 550 in speed and capability. Will I sell the 550 nope. It works and works well. If I could turn the clock back I probably would have done the 650 at least. I am not unhappy with the 550 .