Just built a drying table

[Off the Roster]

Chickshooter - I see on the hogs trough. You're talking about a perpendicular brace half-way down the height of the legs, either just on front & back long sides, or perhaps all the way around, providing support to all the legs together.

you got it! since you indicated putting casters (wheels) on this table i would actually go all the way around (now that you mention it) so that way if you hit a bump or crack while moving it all the legs will continue to move in the correct direction. the lower you install this brace the more secure your table will be when rolling.

btw nice job on this project, i see many more 2 x 4s in your future!

[cmichini]

For those legs in the center, maybe double up on them with a 2 x 4 that is screwed to the center leg, on the inside so it supports the lengthwise board. That should carry the load fine.
If you want ultra stability screw a faceplate to join the lengthwise board to the new support.

[Justintoxicated]

That could double as a HOPS dryer.

[Hogxtz]

Holy crap!!! No wonder theres a shortage on powder and primers. Nice table!


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[bronsht]

Also

Stain does not protect wood. After the stain you will need to finish it with polyurethane or shellac and polyurethane or varnish.

There is a trick for rollers but I don't know if I can explain it. At the two short ends you would have a cross bar of either 2x4 or 4x4 low to the ground with two wheels on each set. One set would be swivel and the other does not need to be. The casters would be hinged with a bar (wood) above them. One stands on the bar to raise the table and snap the casters so that the table is raised onto the wheels. Some hardware keeps them in place such as an eye and hook. You can move the table and then release the casters so that the table is solid again although the overall weight of the unit might mean that you do not even have to release the wheels.

bronsht

[Off the Roster]

Stain does not protect wood. After the stain you will need to finish it with polyurethane or shellac and polyurethane or varnish.

There is a trick for rollers but I don't know if I can explain it. At the two short ends you would have a cross bar of either 2x4 or 4x4 low to the ground with two wheels on each set. One set would be swivel and the other does not need to be. The casters would be hinged with a bar (wood) above them. One stands on the bar to raise the table and snap the casters so that the table is raised onto the wheels. Some hardware keeps them in place such as an eye and hook. You can move the table and then release the casters so that the table is solid again although the overall weight of the unit might mean that you do not even have to release the wheels.

bronsht

well if we are talking casters now...

bronsht is using the premise behind warehouse or "airplane" ladders. tripping the footplate allows the casters to move and re-seating it acts as the break. this way you can buy casters without breaks and save yourself the trouble of bending over to set the breaks before and after moving.

if you need the table to be maneuverable go with 4 smart casters. this will allow you to direct the path of the table around surrounding obstacles easiest.

if you have a fairly straight shot out of the garage/workshop you can go with 2 smart casters and 2 dumb casters, but honestly i dont think this will save you much money based on the casters you need for a table this weight.

if you get stuck mulling over 2 sizes of casters pick the bigger.

if you decide you do not care about breaks on casters check prices at harbor freight on those furniture moving plank doohickies. they should be weight rated to accommodate your table, and harvesting the 4 off it might be cheaper than buying by pairs or individually. (my $ goes to 4 smart casters with breaks).

ps wheels and rollers exist but are not what you seek for this job.

[bruceflinch]

Nice job!

[Burbur]

So, lets see this mixer sized media separator!

[Once Fired]

Here's the media separator, next to the mixer for scale.



That wooden dowel is 4' long. And I believe the tray is also 48" long, but is oriented to fit inside the totes I have doing temp duty as a frame. Had to add some ammo cans on top to give it enough room to clear the tray when spinning. And, of course, it will roll right off those as is, so I had to be careful when rotating the separator.

Trying to figure out what to do that'll be a great stable but mobile platform for the separator so it's super easy to move in & out from in front of the mixer. I don't believe that tray will be quite big enough to handle spraying media.

I have been considering buying some SS pins to try out, too. If I do that, I'll buy the magnetized ones and then also secure a couple magnets somewhere in the separator tray. That way I can use water, and have everything collect in a couple spots.

[Whiterabbit]

Future improvements might include:

• Additional block in center of "L" for corner legs
• Center support running length of table
• Rolling wheels under feet
• Upgrade to bolts
• Add another layer of hardware cloth to bottom

Now just seeing that table full of drying brass is a wonderful thing. It's the little things in life, isn't it?

Future improvement:

1x4's, stapled to a square, they will nest inside each drying tray. Add mesh. You are making "bins" to fit your drying table. Now you wont have to scoop your brass out by hand or by the plastic scoop. Just pick the nesting bin out, pour brass out, and drop the nesting bin back into the drying table.

[Whiterabbit]

also a giant fan under the table to blow air up through the brass to aid drying.

[Once Fired]

Hadn't thought of the tray idea. That might be a nice touch. Currently I am using a dustpan to grab the brass - saves the fingers, and isn't hard on the steel cloth.

I do have that giant fan, but haven't used it yet.

I do need to put some sort of liner on the steel cloth. I've been told anti-slip cloth (such as put in kitchen cabinets) works quite well and it dirt cheap.

[Off the Roster]

get out your 2 x 4s and build 2 saw horses for the support. use a 2 x 6 or 2 x 8 for the cross piece and get a hole saw for your drill 1/2" wider than your dowel. saw horses can do double duty for you and can be stored stacked for space saving (heck you can even hinge them to fold flat. i would swap out a metal bar for the dowel and pin in a crank for easier rotation of the box.

http://www.familyhandyman.com/carpentry/sawhorse-plans/view-all#step1

hmmm i wonder what happened to the guy that made a tumbler out of a $3 ice cream maker he found at a garage sale...

[Once Fired]

I was thinking of building saw horses for this, but they'd be really low ones. It has to fit under the bottom of the fully inverted mixer, but clear the top of the tray. Out of the plans on that page, there's one that might work at that 26" so I'll look into that.

A crank is definitely on the list. Not sure what I want to do regarding the dowel long term. Got the wood one knowing that I would try others later. That's why I made sure to cut the hole bigger than I needed to.

[Off the Roster]

you're building it so you choose the leg height : ) home depot sells steel rods, should run about $15.