Some issues with rounds .223

[cavemanlrrp]

I like to know how much the shoulder is bumped back. You don't want too much and not to little.

It sounds like some of your rounds are a little long in the shoulder.

The RCBS precision mic. is a great tool for this. It will also measure base to ojive of seated bullet.

If you care about round to round consistency it is well worth the $.
I also use Hornady comparators.

Best
caveman

[bsumoba]

use this tool: http://www.midwayusa.com/product/456...-223-remington

[ironhorse1]

Headspace

If you are going to reload you need to read a manual and learn things such as head space.

That would be where a cartridge case stops in a guns chamber.

A bottle necked case stops on the shoulder.

Rimmed cases stop on the rim..

45 ACP and 9MM stop at the case mouth.

I believe that during the bullet seating and crimping you set back the case shoulder.

If there is enough set back the cartridge will not fully chamber and be jammed when you try to extract the round.

If your bullet does not have a cannelure/crimping groove then you should not crimp the bullet.

Case neck tension alone will hold the bullet in place. Check your reloads for a burnished mark below the shoulder. This would indicate that the case shoulder was too wide for the chamber.

When crimping, to much crimp, can set back the shoulder or cause the loss of case neck tension.

You should be able to check your reloads against a factory round or use a caliper to measure the case and check the reload manual for proper case dimensions.

It's very easy to apply to much pressure during the seating process. With the short bullets and short neck of the .223 you will need to use a light touch. It takes some practice.

Good luck.. irh

[A and O]

Yup I do the same, why trim every case if they are within tolerance? Never bother buying a headspace gage ether because 5.56x45 brass wont work in a .223 gage.

[JagerDog]

Are you lubing inside of necks? Sometimes you'll pull the shoulder back out as the sizing nipple is drawn back through the case.

[Dsal_13]

Are you lubing inside of necks? Sometimes you'll pull the shoulder back out as the sizing nipple is drawn back through the case.

No I am not... should I be?

[Dsal_13]

Thanks for all the help guys!

[emptybottle151]

[ironhorse1]

No I am not... should I be?

Do not use a wet lubricant inside the case neck! You want the neck to firmly hold the bullet.

There is a dry powder called Motor Mica which can be used on a brush inside the neck.

Brushing will remove carbon and allow the expander ball to pull out of the case easier.

Since the neck is very short and I tumble my cases on the .223 I usually omit the neck brushing. If the ball is getting scratched then polish the ball with 600 grit sandpaper and brush the neck. A brush in a drill works very fast.

However on 30-30 brass with its very long neck it is a necessary step.

irh

[Divernhunter]

I have a unit that is mounted next to my press with 3 brushes and the dry lube. Every 3-5 cases I use it. You can tell by the sound of the case being sized how often. For a new person you might just do every one or every other one. This is faster than a brush you have to hold in your hand or a drill.

My case prep center(Lyman) also has this.

[JagerDog]

No I am not... should I be?

It's a good thing to do. Just a trace of lube on a neck brush poked in, then out. The RCBS case neck brushes are pretty coarse and hold very little lube. It's the one place I use the lube pad...lightly roll the brush over it every 5 cases or so. If you're single staging with loading blocks, it's pretty quick. Just adds a few minutes to a block of 50. The idea that dry lube will hold a bullet better is . The "virtue" of dry is less opportunity for powder contamination, but just a trace of liquid lube isn't a problem.