School me on shotshell reloading?

[Nickbowen5]

Not new to reloading (well kinda). I just purchased a 12 gauge and was interested in reloading for that, as I find reloading calming and addictive. I was looking at MEC's and found the jr. mark 5 new for like $110 and this: http://sacramento.craigslist.org/for/3961900379.html. My question is: what is necessary for shotshell reloading and is it worth the investment? Can you reload 3.5" shells? I would like to thank everyone in advance for your helpfulness.

[jglabe]

I have been reloading on my MEC jr. for a long time now. I have had the same MEC for 20 years. It still does it's job. They are built to last. In my opinion it is worth it to reload shot shells. I mostly shoot dove and ducks, and reloading does cut down on the cost. I think the most beneficial aspect of shot shell loading is finding the right combo of components that patterns well in your shotgun. I can make loads that pattern much better than factory ammo. I can also make lighter loads that make my 12ga feel like a 20ga (good for getting newbies some practice). In shot shell reloading you don't "work up a load". There are specific recipes and you try those recipes and see what patterns well in your shotgun. Plus, it is not nearly as expensive as cartridge loading to get your feet wet into the sport.

[Nickbowen5]

I have been reloading on my MEC jr. for a long time now. I have had the same MEC for 20 years. It still does it's job. They are built to last. In my opinion it is worth it to reload shot shells. I mostly shoot dove and ducks, and reloading does cut down on the cost. I think the most beneficial aspect of shot shell loading is finding the right combo of components that patterns well in your shotgun. I can make loads that pattern much better than factory ammo. I can also make lighter loads that make my 12ga feel like a 20ga (good for getting newbies some practice). In shot shell reloading you don't "work up a load". There are specific recipes and you try those recipes and see what patterns well in your shotgun. Plus, it is not nearly as expensive as cartridge loading to get your feet wet into the sport.

nice thanks for the response. Can you tell me what components are needed to begin shotshell reloading? Can you reload 3.5" shells? Would you say go MEC or go home, or is the lee a decent option? I want to use my 12 gauge to get into shooting dove and ducks like you, so I bet I will come to the same conclusion you have come to as far as benefits to reloading.

[NoNOS67]

Not new to reloading (well kinda). I just purchased a 12 gauge and was interested in reloading for that, as I find reloading calming and addictive. I was looking at MEC's and found the jr. mark 5 new for like $110 and this: http://sacramento.craigslist.org/for/3961900379.html. My question is: what is necessary for shotshell reloading and is it worth the investment? Can you reload 3.5" shells? I would like to thank everyone in advance for your helpfulness.

Shotshell is by far the least expensive to start reloading for. All you need is a press, a scale, and your components. 3.5" shells can definitely be reloaded. If you normally shoot the cheap value pack stuff, you will save little, if any money. Less common loads and the 3.5" shells you mentioned are things that you will save a considerable amount on. Good luck!

ETA: Regarding your post above, I would recommend buying MEC or better. If you buy the Lee, you will end up wanting something nicer.

You will need hulls, wads, primers, powder and shot to get started. Pick up a reloading manual and read it. Shotshell reloading requires that you use the exact components specified in the load recipes and reading a good manual will give you an idea of what you will need to pick up. Load data is also available online from Alliant, Hodgdon, and others.

[jglabe]

nice thanks for the response. Can you tell me what components are needed to begin shotshell reloading? Can you reload 3.5" shells? Would you say go MEC or go home, or is the lee a decent option? I want to use my 12 gauge to get into shooting dove and ducks like you, so I bet I will come to the same conclusion you have come to as far as benefits to reloading.

You can load 3.5". If my memory serves me, MEC has a 3.5" conversion kit you need to buy to do it. A standard MEC will load 2 3/4 and 3". I have never tried anything other than my MEC jr. So I have no knowledge of the LEE. You will need powder, 209 primers, wads, shot, and the hulls. Certain recipes call out for different combos of each. I started out loading Win AA hulls and switched to Rem gun club/ Nitro 27/ STS. I load those almost exclusively, so I look for recipes that use those hulls. I would recommend a reloading manual for shot shells before you start buying components.

[mjsweims]

A MEC 600 JR is a great way to start, but $100 is a bit high for a used one. Try ebay.
JGLABE has it right for all he answered. Check your lgs to see what they have for powder and start your recipe around that. You can find loading data on the powder makers web sites. For 12 ga STS or AA hulls work great along with the Claybuster AA12 1-1/8 wad equivalent. Go with any non magnum primer you can find and stick with it. Reclaimed lead is far less expensive than new, and is generally very good to use.
If you are looking to beat Valupack pricing you probably won't. If you are shooting more than 1k per month you might want to try a MEC progressive 650 or Grabber. I have no experience with a Lee but MEC's are almost bullet proof and like the energizer bunny keep going and going and going.
Any more questions you can pm me.

[2slo4u]

Do to the high cost of lead shot these days, it really isn't worthwhile unless you are loading some kind of specialty load like for target,ie.. Trap, skeet, or sporting clays. I've only found it cost effective for low recoil 7/8oz and 1oz loads. It actually is fun to do, and not nearly as difficult as loading for most rifle rounds. I don't want to discourage you, because it is rewarding, just not always cost effective.

[NoNOS67]

True! Gave me a great excuse to get a 28ga though!

[Nickbowen5]

A MEC 600 JR is a great way to start, but $100 is a bit high for a used one. Try ebay.
JGLABE has it right for all he answered. Check your lgs to see what they have for powder and start your recipe around that. You can find loading data on the powder makers web sites. For 12 ga STS or AA hulls work great along with the Claybuster AA12 1-1/8 wad equivalent. Go with any non magnum primer you can find and stick with it. Reclaimed lead is far less expensive than new, and is generally very good to use.
If you are looking to beat Valupack pricing you probably won't. If you are shooting more than 1k per month you might want to try a MEC progressive 650 or Grabber. I have no experience with a Lee but MEC's are almost bullet proof and like the energizer bunny keep going and going and going.
Any more questions you can pm me.

The mec jr is new. I thought it was used

[Nickbowen5]

Do to the high cost of lead shot these days, it really isn't worthwhile unless you are loading some kind of specialty load like for target,ie.. Trap, skeet, or sporting clays. I've only found it cost effective for low recoil 7/8oz and 1oz loads. It actually is fun to do, and not nearly as difficult as loading for most rifle rounds. I don't want to discourage you, because it is rewarding, just not always cost effective.

Ok thanks for the advice.

[Revoman]

As stated, reloading is a rewarding past time. Saving a few bucks is a good side bar. And having the capability to do so when ammo is virtually unavailable is priceless.

There is money to saved by loading 12 gauge, way more if loading 28 or 410. The real way to save is to buy in bulk, just like metallic. Buy primers by the 5K, shot by the 100 pound, wads by 5K and powder of course by the keg, all this is the bare minimum that you should buy, larger portions offer greater savings beyond those quantities. Also, with the cost of the steel shot factory loads, it less expensive to load for waterfowl.

Dependent upon your monthly use, a MEC 600 Jr is a wise choice for loading less than a few hundred rounds a month. Anything beyond that and you will wish for a faster loader such as a MEC 650, Grabber or 9000. Even hydraulic or electric drive is available for those that shoot 1,000's of rounds a month.

Are there better loaders out there, yup. Can they beat a MEC, prolly, but MEC's are solid machines that last....and easy to work on or replace parts and can be had for much less cash.

They can be found for good prices used, especially at local shotgun ranges, there is always someone selling a machine where I shoot. Local shotgun ranges are also a great source for components and group buys of those components.

I would recommend settling on AA or STS hulls, they are both excellent choices, last for many loadings and have the most loading information available to allow the use of many differing components. I would also recommend that you buy the factory offerings of these manufactures and shoot them to attain your once fired hulls. Yes you can buy them, but why not enjoy shooting them instead, then loading them.

Any more information that you may need just ask.

[Nickbowen5]

As stated, reloading is a rewarding past time. Saving a few bucks is a good side bar. And having the capability to do so when ammo is virtually unavailable is priceless.

There is money to saved by loading 12 gauge, way more if loading 28 or 410. The real way to save is to buy in bulk, just like metallic. Buy primers by the 5K, shot by the 100 pound, wads by 5K and powder of course by the keg, all this is the bare minimum that you should buy, larger portions offer greater savings beyond those quantities. Also, with the cost of the steel shot factory loads, it less expensive to load for waterfowl.

Dependent upon your monthly use, a MEC 600 Jr is a wise choice for loading less than a few hundred rounds a month. Anything beyond that and you will wish for a faster loader such as a MEC 650, Grabber or 9000. Even hydraulic or electric drive is available for those that shoot 1,000's of rounds a month.

Are there better loaders out there, yup. Can they beat a MEC, prolly, but MEC's are solid machines that last....and easy to work on or replace parts and can be had for much less cash.

They can be found for good prices used, especially at local shotgun ranges, there is always someone selling a machine where I shoot. Local shotgun ranges are also a great source for components and group buys of those components.

I would recommend settling on AA or STS hulls, they are both excellent choices, last for many loadings and have the most loading information available to allow the use of many differing components. I would also recommend that you buy the factory offerings of these manufactures and shoot them to attain your once fired hulls. Yes you can buy them, but why not enjoy shooting them instead, then loading them.

Any more information that you may need just ask.

Ok thanks for the help. I think I may go with the MEC JR. as I am going off to college so it will not be used most of the year. Just summer and breaks.

[redranger13]

I use what they call a MEC "grabber" I think and it's worked *****in for years. As mentioned above certain hulls are preferred over others I reload a lot of Winchester AA but I have a small stash of STS that are awesome. Sometimes you luck out and can find someone selling hulls for cheap or you can pick up empties at the range. I find that I save considerable money even before the bubble using "reclaimed shot". If your local reloading store has it, it's definitely a good option if your not picky on the shot size for clays and such.

[sargenv]

One thing it is worth it is if you club requires non toxic shot and bio-degradable wads.. Only a few clubs require it.. I can make up 12 ga 3/4 oz load for $6/box which saves $2/box over the factory fodder the club sells. I can get 533 rounds out of 25# lot of #7's. In 20 gauge I can load a 1/2 oz and it's even a bit cheaper.. and 25 # that they sell will net me 800 rounds..

I too like the Grabber for loading in a hurry... and I recently aquired a 20 ga 9000... Think of the Grabber as a Dillon 550, and the 9000 as a Dillon 650.. without the case feeder..

One other thing to say about the cheap shells.. they are cheap for a reason.. the lead shot that they load can be inconsistent.. Lead shot can be expensive but you can get a higher quality lead shot (rounder/harder) and load your own that will likely be more consistent both pattern and velocity wise..

[stilly]

The ONLY reason why I would load for Shotgun is because I wanted more accurate SKeet rounds, or just to make totally cool loads with clear hulls and green wads and look pro at the skeet clinic.

With that said, it can be difficult to find and test different combinations so be CERTAIN to look all around for various components because there are a LOT of components out there that vary. It aint just the same as buy a plated bullet or lead bullet, you MUST match up certain hulls with certain wads and if they do not fit properly then you are wasting money. This is what I have noticed so far. I want the best wads I can get because the flight control wads that came out were supposed to be awesome at controlling the spread, but they stopped making theose it looks like and damn anyways. Now I have to look for something else. Also, hulls you get have to be good hulls, not just anything. Yeah if you do not care and you want to mess around they just get hulls and wads and shot and powder, but you will find that certain hulls dictate which wads you can and can not use.

GL, I still revisit the shotty reloading from time to time. Oh yeah, also it seems that there is no real way to work up loads. You either use x amount of powder or you make a different load. There are some slight differences it seems.