TulAmmo SPP light strikes

[bzzz]

I ran out of the good stuff CCI/Winchester SPP, but luckily was able to order the and receive the elusive TulAmmo SPP from Powder Valley.

With a stock glock with no mods, strictly OEM and out of the box, I fired
150 rounds of 9mm, I had 5 or 6 failures to fire on the first strike. 30 seconds felt like an eternity each time I waited it out, don't wanna experience a hang fire firsthand.

Used to this type of FTF from shooting a Sig Mosquito and non-CCI Mini-Mag 22lr rounds, I reseated the round into the chamber and pulled the trigger.

Some of the FTF rounds lit up on the first pull. All of the FTF rounds eventually went bag, some after 4 tries.

I'll still use TulAmmo SPP, but it won't be my first choice.

Happy Reloading!

[STI]

I also bought some Tulammo SPP from PV when they last had them in stock. I was expecting to have some light strikes because I have heard their primer cup is harder than most. I have shot through about 2000 rounds of assorted calibers through different guns and have not experienced any light strikes. I have a S&W 686 with lightened trigger that has trouble setting off some factory Fiocchi .357mag, but even that gun lit off every Tula primer. My only complaint is that they are harder to seat than CCI and Federal.

[ExtremeX]

No light strikes from my end either...

OP, are you sure you are seating the primers well? This can often be a cause for what you are experiencing.

[XDRoX]

If a primer doesn't go off on the first strike but does go off on the next strike or even next one, its because the primer wasn't properly seated. Wolf/Tula primers are harder than other brands. They take slightly more force to properly seat. Primers won't detonate unless fully seated. It's part of their design. What's happening is the failed primer strikes are actually completely seating the primer. I've loaded thousands in all calibers shot in a multitude of firearms and never had one not detonate.

[uhlan1]

I've fired 1000's and 1000's of Tula SPP out of a plethora of guns including Glocks and have not experienced this. As another said though, they can be harder to seat.

[bzzz]

Thanks all for the info, I'll be more diligent when seating the primer. I'll also clean up the priming mechanism on the press, which i've never cleaned before.

I noticed during 9mm reloading, certain brass wouldn't kindly take in the TulAmmo SPP. I didn't want to force it in because I thought I would break the press, so I put those the reject pile. Compared to the other brass that smoothly took in the primer, the rejected ones would lockup the press arm during seating. Most of the brass in the reject pile had the green ring around the primer cup (9mm 115grain FMJ MagTech CleanRange Loads).

Next time I'll shoot, I'll collect the FTF brass and see if they are Magtech brass.

Thanks again

[XDRoX]

The brass that wouldn't accept the primers are called "Crimped."
In order to reload crimped brass you first need to swage which means remove the crimp. RCBS makes a press swager as well as some other companies. Dillon makes a stand alone swager.

Dillon's 1050 (which is the mother of all presses) swages on the press. A very nice feature for those that load a lot of 9mm and 223. These are the two most common calibers that use crimped primer pockets.

[bzzz]

The brass that wouldn't accept the primers are called "Crimped."
In order to reload crimped brass you first need to swage which means remove the crimp. RCBS makes a press swager as well as some other companies. Dillon makes a stand alone swager.

Dillon's 1050 (which is the mother of all presses) swages on the press. A very nice feature for those that load a lot of 9mm and 223. These are the two most common calibers that use crimped primer pockets.

Whoa, didn't know pistol ammo could be crimped. A Dillon 1050 would be a great swager for crimped 9mm brass but it's too $$$ for me, though the 1050 makes the stand alone Dillon swager look like a bargain.

I'll just sort out the crimped 9mm brass from the plain 9mm brass, kinda like .45ACP reloaders dealing with SPP and LPP brass. It should be easy to sort because of the distinctive green ring. Save up the crimped brass and decrimp them once I get a swager (maybe get into rifle shooting and reloading next year when the credit card cools down).

Thanks for the insight XDRoX.

[milotrain]

Tula primers are a bit fatter than Winchester/CCI, you have to seat them deep but many feel they are more consistent than any out there. 5k plus and no problems on my end with SRMs

[Bumslie]

The brass that wouldn't accept the primers are called "Crimped."
In order to reload crimped brass you first need to swage which means remove the crimp. RCBS makes a press swager

I've swaged about 1k rounds of 9mm and 5.56 today

Go rcbs

[XDRoX]

I've swaged about 1k rounds of 9mm and 5.56 today

Go rcbs

I forgot RCBS recently came out with one as well. Looks like they copied the Dillon one. Have you tried the Dillon one? Wondering how the two compare.

[Bumslie]

I forgot RCBS recently came out with one as well. Looks like they copied the Dillon one. Have you tried the Dillon one? Wondering how the two compare.

Yeah I have tried the dillon one. Dillon is ~$20 more. I like both, both work well. Rcbs is a little more comfortable in a sitting position than the dillon. The dillon might be a little easier on your wrist.

[XDRoX]

Yeah I have tried the dillon one. Dillon is ~$20 more. I like both, both work well. Rcbs is a little more comfortable in a sitting position than the dillon. The dillon might be a little easier on your wrist.

Interesting. The Dillon also has the rubber band mod to automate it. Can you do the same thing with the RCBS? If you don't know what I'm talking about a quick YouTube search will show you. It's pretty cool.

[stand125]

The brass that wouldn't accept the primers are called "Crimped."

Or possibly S&B Brass which has slightly smaller primer pockets that can be a pain to seat primers in.

[Bumslie]

Interesting. The Dillon also has the rubber band mod to automate it. Can you do the same thing with the RCBS? If you don't know what I'm talking about a quick YouTube search will show you. It's pretty cool.

Yeah I've seen it, both ways actually where they modify it to pull down, or throw the brass. IMHO it's a solution to a non-existent problem.
That little lever rotates fully on the dillon, whereas the rcbs is a 3 position lever, so Unless you modify here

Don't really see how you could copy the dillon. Again it's a solution to a non-existent problem to me. I still crank them out quick. It may be me, but I feel I'm doing less twisting motion with my body with the rcbs than the dillon.

Eta. That green line on my bench was before I properly bolted down the swager to my bench. Just incase someone was going to say something.