Request for Recipe: 38 S&W + HP38

[Low Light]

Just checking to see if anyone has any tried and true recipes for 38 S&W using 200 grain LRN (Lyman #363200) and HP38. I've seen a few recipes floating around using slower burning stuff like Bullseye and Unique, so I'm wondering if it's safe and/or feasible to try HP38.

I'd like to give it a shot before attempting to trade it away.

Thanks, in advance.

[mark501w]

Should me similar.

[derniere]

The Lyman Cast Handbook 4th Ed, doesn't quite list data for the Lyman #363200 mold you have. What it does list, however, is data for the Lyman # 358430, a 195 grain round nose with what looks to be 3 lube grooves. For this mold, data for Win231 (and thus HP-38), is as follows:

Win231, start 1.6 grains, 489 fps, pressure 9100 CUP. Max is 1.8, 550 fps, pressure 11200. OAL is 1.175"

Hope that helps.

-d

[Low Light]

Thanks, dernier!

[derniere]

You bet.

[stilly]

Just checking to see if anyone has any tried and true recipes for 38 S&W using 200 grain LRN (Lyman #363200) and HP38. I've seen a few recipes floating around using slower burning stuff like Bullseye and Unique, so I'm wondering if it's safe and/or feasible to try HP38.

I'd like to give it a shot before attempting to trade it away.

Thanks, in advance.

If you have the LEE .38 dies they include HP-38 on their reloading table, like 3.1gr or something to start for a 158gr swc I THINK, confirm that first. but I think the 3.1-3.9 was the charge. Good stuff, my friend was gonna reload for .38 spl so he and I were going over some numbers one night. Thier dipper that came with would hit you around 3.3gr I think, according to their numbers. Anyways, confirm that if you have the set of dies.

[mark501w]

That cartridge is a old time weirdo , bore diameter is .360 as opposed to .357. They were looking @ hollow base bullets to expand to catch the lands. Also Makarov bullets were discussed as a alternative. You need to slug the bore.

[meterman07]

Most of the .38 S&W reload data is for old weak "Top break" revolvers, and was originaly a black powder cartidge from the late 1800's. The S&W Victory model will handel a reasonable pressure load that makes a 150Gr go about 700-800 FPS. .360 sized bullits can be found. Shoot safe.

[Low Light]

If you have the LEE .38 dies they include HP-38 on their reloading table, like 3.1gr or something to start for a 158gr swc I THINK, confirm that first. but I think the 3.1-3.9 was the charge. Good stuff, my friend was gonna reload for .38 spl so he and I were going over some numbers one night. Thier dipper that came with would hit you around 3.3gr I think, according to their numbers. Anyways, confirm that if you have the set of dies.

I think you're talking .38 Special, Stilly. I'm talking 38 S&W.

Most of the .38 S&W reload data is for old weak "Top break" revolvers, and was originaly a black powder cartidge from the late 1800's. The S&W Victory model will handel a reasonable pressure load that makes a 150Gr go about 700-800 FPS. .360 sized bullits can be found. Shoot safe.

See, I've read the opposite about military top breaks like the Enfield and Webley. I've read that guns like the Victory needed to be loaded on the lighter end of the table because they were not as sturdy as the Webleys and Enfields. Revolvers like the top break Iver Johnsons were not as sturdy as either the Victory nor the British military pistols.

Can anyone confirm or refute?

[ptmn]

If you're not tied to the 200gr lead, you can get the 145gr LRN bullet from Missouri Cast Bullets. Missouri makes the proper 38 S&W .361 diameter bullet for the old 38 S&W aka 38/200 round. They are being sold for a very reasonable $35.50 per 500. Here's the link: http://www.missouribullet.com/result...5&secondary=29

If you check out the Hodgon Powder website, they have load data for the 145gr cast lead bullet and HP-38. Min is listed as 2.2gr and max is listed at 2.5gr.

Before I could obtain actual 38 S&W bullets, I used to use 38 Special bullets to load the 38 S&W. The trick to using 38 Special Bullets is the first size the 38 S&W brass with the proper reloading die, then use a 38 Special die to size the first 1/8" of the case. This effectively made the case mouth small enough to hold the smaller diameter (.357) 38 Special bullet. If you use this technique, you have to use the 38 Special expander die to slightly bell the case. If you use the 38 S&W expander, it will take the reduced neck out completely and your bullets will drop into the case.

Don't sell off your 38 S&W, it is still a very reloadable cartridge. Just get the proper bullets from Missouri or use my technique to load 38 Special bullets. By the way, I was able to get acceptable accuracy using the smaller diameter 38 Special 125gr Jacketed Hollow Points.

Good luck and have fun shooting your gun.