LNL Powder Measure + Case Linkage + PTX = Problems BUT IMPROVED PTX but how to fix?

[stilly]

SO as some know I run a Lee Classic Turret with a LNL and Case Activated Linkage on top.

I RECENTLY purchased the PTX bushings for it so now I even put on that stupid little turnbuckle thingy.

Last night I got this kind of action on it:

Target is between 4.20gr-4.28gr WST for a 230gr .45 load.

4.22, 4.24, 4.22, 4.24, 4.26, 4.10, 4.18, 4.14, 4.08, 4.10 STOP
adjust the powder measure to give MORe powder

4.40, 4.38, 4.36, 4.42, 4.28, 4.14, 4.16, 4.36...

BEFORE I put that turnbuckle thingy on and switched over to the PTX bushings I would have something that looked like this:

4.24, 4.22, 4.28, 4.24, 4.24, 4.26, 4.24, 4.22, 4.24, 4.28...

I KNOW that this thing has to work better and it makes NO SENSE why it would be off that much unless I need to put a dessicant in my powder tube and maybe there is excessive bridging due to moisture getting in. I leave my powder in the tube and it has been like that for a while now but just WHAT a coincidence that after I swap out the regular bushing for a PTX bushing instead of using the Lee PTX die to flare that now I get all of this inconsistency.

Does anyone have a LNL with the ptx expanders and the case activated linkage and has their's running right?

Did I miss something in the setup? Right now I have it as this:

1. Resize
2. BLANK
3. Flare/Charge
4. Seat/Crimp

The LNL powder dropper does not play well on the Lee Classic Turret so I have to kinda play around with locations to make things work. Any suggestions? I do not recall seeing anything about the turnbuckle in the docs that came with the LNL powder dropper so I thought I would ask. I am also afraid that if I ask Hornady they will tell me that that is normal operation just like Lee told me in e-mail when I was mad that the pro disk powder dropper was hitting .1-.4gr off.

Any suggestions? It seems that the addition of that turnbuckle has made the end point SOFT so that the end point does not stop with the rotor hitting the top and stopping, and if it DOES do that (now I have adjusted it so it does) the rotor will now STICK in the top position and fail to drop a charge until I press it down. Hmmm, I hope it did not make any squibs last night... I made about another 100 or so rounds measuring each one and checking weights.

[alfred1222]

Try using a standard bushing instead of the PTX? Is it possible that you're not letting the rotor how through its full range of motion OR you're moving too fast?

[stilly]

Try using a standard bushing instead of the PTX? Is it possible that you're not letting the rotor how through its full range of motion OR you're moving too fast?

I was using the standard bushing. But I wanted to convert to the expanding bushing.

Rotor now sticks on the top (because I have it adjusted to allow it to do that which I think is incorrectly adjusted. I only know it sticks because when I am not paying attention it will slam down after I seat the bullet or on the way to the bullet. The rotor is being over roatated at this point, but that will not affect the powder charge, also, it seems that having just a little rotor rotation is really all that is needed. I mean, I did not think that I did it but I accidently double charged my .45 while playing with the rotor. I was like, wow, did not expect THAT to happen. I barely spun it back down. :\ I'm heading over to Hornady to see if they have any pdf on the issue...


OH DAMN!

http://www.powderfunnels.com/products.html

WOW! ORDERED!

This was actually another problem that I had, the PTX from hornady has been clipping my brass which means that I have to slow down and help the ptx find the hole (sickos!) and I was wondering why not just make it a cone... THIS is gonna help out a lot.

Looks like my ptx bushings are going back onto Fleabay...

[welldriller]

L&L Powder measure

You are getting more consistent measurements than I am, best I can get is within .3g.
The turn buckle thing is to adjust the amount of flair on the case when you are using the bushing.
If the handle is going all the way and sticking, back the powder measure out until it just touches. the turn buckle doesn't affect handle travel.
my powder measure has been so inconsistent that I made a setup for my L&L to measure the amount of powder using a dial indicator. I can see a change of .1g. This is in station 4 just before I put the bullet in the case.
I have had the handle stick in the up position and continue to load a couple of rounds without powder.. keep a brass rod handy

There is a video at the Hornady site that goes into setting up the powder measure.
Good luck,

[stilly]

Yeah thanks! I just found an older post that I posted asking what it was for and how to set it up to use flaring and El Nino replied with some drawings. LoL. I was like, HEH! Mine needs to be tightened down a little bit.

One question though, does it matter if you tighten the upper or lower screws more or no? I can not see any difference in tightening the upper or lower screws more but I just am curious if one is up more than the other. I thought that as LONG as the end result is that it stops the rotor about 1/8" before the top then it is all good. They must have made that with two screws to accompany different configurations I guess. I would still think that one screw would be all that was needed though.

Heh. Riverside eh... :\

[welldriller]

It doesn't make any difference which screw you move, I found the top one to be difficult to get to is all.
Im in Lake Mathews

[Fyathyrio]

I've used the Powderfunnels PTX for years now without needing the turnbuckle thing and I get accurate and repeatable drops with smaller powders like Bullseye, and an acceptable (but annoying) range with a large flake powder like Unique. This is loading .45, .44 spl/mag, and .38/.357 using both regular and nickle plated brass. I set up the powder measure where the rotor just touches the body on the upstroke, then tweak for desired flare from there. Works like a champ.

[stilly]

I've used the Powderfunnels PTX for years now without needing the turnbuckle thing and I get accurate and repeatable drops with smaller powders like Bullseye, and an acceptable (but annoying) range with a large flake powder like Unique. This is loading .45, .44 spl/mag, and .38/.357 using both regular and nickle plated brass. I set up the powder measure where the rotor just touches the body on the upstroke, then tweak for desired flare from there. Works like a champ.

WAIT A SEC.

TIME OUT please.

OKay, I am glad about the first part of sentence number 1 and mine is on its way right now as we speak! BUT, I have questions about the rest.

HOW is it possible that the bushing/ptx can have ANYTHING at all to do with the amount of dropped powder? BECAUSE, it is odd that I NEVER had this problem UNTIL I put my Lee PTX die back in the case and took out the standard bushing for the LNL Powder dropper and started using the .451 PTX bushing for the powder dropper. I THOUGHT everything was set up properly, All I did was SWAP out one part for the other since they were about the same as far as length is concerned. With the turnbuckle, I decided that top of bottom should have made no difference, but after a while the bottom will start to come loose.

BUT, how does the Powderfunnel PTX bushing affect the powder charge? It is just a passer through.

I am thinking that maybe my powder got some moisture in it so now I am gonna run a dessicant in the powder tube as well as maybe get an extra hygrometer from turners the next time I am over there.

[drkphibr]

I was using the standard bushing. But I wanted to convert to the expanding bushing.

Rotor now sticks on the top (because I have it adjusted to allow it to do that which I think is incorrectly adjusted. I only know it sticks because when I am not paying attention it will slam down after I seat the bullet or on the way to the bullet. The rotor is being over roatated at this point, but that will not affect the powder charge, also, it seems that having just a little rotor rotation is really all that is needed. I mean, I did not think that I did it but I accidently double charged my .45 while playing with the rotor. I was like, wow, did not expect THAT to happen. I barely spun it back down. :\ I'm heading over to Hornady to see if they have any pdf on the issue...


OH DAMN!

http://www.powderfunnels.com/products.html

WOW! ORDERED!

This was actually another problem that I had, the PTX from hornady has been clipping my brass which means that I have to slow down and help the ptx find the hole (sickos!) and I was wondering why not just make it a cone... THIS is gonna help out a lot.

Looks like my ptx bushings are going back onto Fleabay...

Did you ever receive your Powderfunnels order? They appear to be unreachable by phone and once you pay via Google Wallet, there are no order updates..."order not yet shipped"...feels like I'm in the twilight zone.

[EL_NinO619]

Yeah thanks! I just found an older post that I posted asking what it was for and how to set it up to use flaring and El Nino replied with some drawings. LoL. I was like, HEH! Mine needs to be tightened down a little bit.

One question though, does it matter if you tighten the upper or lower screws more or no? I can not see any difference in tightening the upper or lower screws more but I just am curious if one is up more than the other. I thought that as LONG as the end result is that it stops the rotor about 1/8" before the top then it is all good. They must have made that with two screws to accompany different configurations I guess. I would still think that one screw would be all that was needed though.

Heh. Riverside eh... :\

You got it working?

[stilly]

yeah yeah all good. I have the powder funnel but I did not put it in yet. I am at a crossroad waiting for my arm to feel better and for employment before I start loading up more ammo and all.

Thanks.