lee turret powder spillage

[biogenic]

I am getting a little powder spillage on my turret press... Someone recommend the pro auto disk update kit. Anyone has one and it work better the the original "square" container ?

[the led farmer]

http://leeprecision.net/support/Knowledgebase/auto-disk-leaking

http://leeprecision.net/Knowledgebase/Article/View/auto-disk-powder-leaking

[biogenic]

http://leeprecision.net/support/Knowledgebase/auto-disk-leaking

http://leeprecision.net/Knowledgebase/Article/View/auto-disk-powder-leaking

Thanks

[Bill Steele]

There is no comparison, or better said, no spillage with the Pro. If you buy the upgrade kit, you also get athe charge bar included, the upgrade kit is definitely worth the money.

[bandook]

For me, H110 (win 296) leaks with the Pro too...

[biogenic]

Thanks. I think I'll get one. Bandook, any other powders you get "leaks" with besides he h110 ?

[Bill Steele]

One thing you can do for the regular AD to help with leakage is to lay some 220-320 grit on a flat surface and run the rails that the hopper sits on across it. Do it evenly side to side and check it by holding the whole assembly up to light with a disk in the carrier. Getting the gap between the hopper and the disk reduced to as near zero without contacting the disk is the goal.

I had one of my AD Pro hopper's that would leak AA#9 (a very fine powder). I did the same process (it is a bit of a pain as you have to take the long screws out of the base to sand it) on that Pro hopper base, but the goal here is to get the elastomer seal on the Pro hopper to actually swipe on the disk. This eliminated leakage on that Pro hopper completely.

[bandook]

Thanks. I think I'll get one. Bandook, any other powders you get "leaks" with besides he h110 ?

No real leaks on Bullseye/Titegroup from what I can remember (or Unique/Trail Boss as they aren't fine powders).

Do understand that I am loading at a very fast clip on the turret (>300rph) so some of this could be related to the harder than normal bumps at the top and bottom of the stroke.

Not being a speed junkie here (my overall speed is probably in the 100-130 rph range). I just cannot get the lee safety primes to work reliably on my classic turret so I prime using the RCBS Bench mounted Priming tool (with the hunt and peck primer tubes). Starting with primed cases, this turret just flies - (I've worked out a way where the press never really stops moving unless I'm checking powder throw).

@Bill... will try that the sandpaper fix weekend as I do have that grit sandpaper left over from a door finishing project...

[the led farmer]

I just cannot get the lee safety primes to work reliably on my classic turret

i know how frustrating chasing primers all over the floor is, i was pretty irritated with the lee safety prime system at first. i did however see video after video of people on youtube jammin' right along and nailing every primer so i figured it was operator error. (i have found this to be true of lee equipment in general, the stuff works, if it's not working it's probably me)

i adjusted and readjusted and focused on my technique until i got it right and now i rarely miss. i highly recommend giving it another whirl and just dick with it until you get it dialed in. frustrating at first, but once you get it right it's the business

[bandook]

I'd keep at it too if I didn't have an alternative, but I do - and it works 100% of the time. (I already had the RCBS bench primer - so it was an easy decision)

I don't think anyone will ever claim that the Safety Prime System is 'well made'. Tightening up the play in a couple of places would make this infinitely better. But, I've put the safety primes in the same category as the Lee Scale. Good Idea - Poor execution.

So my recommendation to anyone looking to get a new reloading system is:
1. Lee Classic turret Press (haven't used the cheaper 'deluxe' one - but it may be just fine for pistol cartridges)
2. Lee AutoDisk Pro Powder measure - very consistent with most powders
3. Lee Dies
4. A Hand Priming tool (or bench mounted but they are more expensive)
5. A digital scale (or rcbs/dillon beam scales)

You'll need that scale as the auto disk cavities don't usually throw the weights they claim on the accompanying documentation.

[Bill Steele]

...@Bill... will try that the sandpaper fix weekend as I do have that grit sandpaper left over from a door finishing project...

I found on the Pro with problem powders (i.e. fine grains), if you sand just enough so the little ledge is taken off on each side (making the whole rail flat), that should be enough to seal even a really shrunk seal against the disk.

[stilly]

There is no comparison, or better said, no spillage with the Pro. If you buy the upgrade kit, you also get athe charge bar included, the upgrade kit is definitely worth the money.

^THIS THIS THIS!

I dunno about the upgrade kit though. I just bought the autodisk pro and then I bought the adjustable charge bar seperately when I jumped into reloading.

THAT WAS THE BEST $10 I ever spent for that lil charge bar. I only wish it was bigger, but then again, that is what real measures are for I guess...

BTW, by design you will always get some sort of spillage from the lee auto disk pro. It annoyed the hell outta me when I would go too fast the grains would JUMP the hole and off the edge of the plate onto the wooden workbench. OOPS.
Other times it would seem that on the upstroke and the turret was changing positions to the next die I could almost ALWAYS hear powder hitting paper or somewhere on the bench.

SINCE I made the move to the Lock N LOAD with the case activated dropper I have NOT had that problem at all. Now I have other problems but they are minor mechanical issues that I am ironing out.

[biogenic]

Great info. Thanks everyone.

[Markus]

For the primers I use just my thumb on te safety prime and it works wonders. I also highly recommend the videos by cowboy t on YouTube. For the classic turret that is...