CTS Case Trimmer Review (In Depth and pic heavy))

[ExtremeX]

I get those variations too… within a couple thou…

I think most of it has to do with how the shoulders were bumped back or if the shoulders were stretched during neck sizing. It’s a guess, but I think that’s what it might be. The trimmer is pretty consistent, but also keep it mind, you can see a little variation like that if you push on some cases harder than other.

For .223 I understand the cases can be anywhere from 1.740 to 1.760… I set mine at 1.750 and don’t really care about few thou of variation across the cases…

[huckberry668]

Gotcha, that makes sense. thanks

[curisu]

Bringing back an old thread - just ordered, received and used a CTS trimmer for .223 this week. I spent a couple hours setting up and test trimming a couple cases.

Question for the guys who use this successfully: do you get a lot of play between the case and the delrin insert? I can wiggle my cases pretty significantly.

How hard are you pressing the case into the trimmer? If i go lightly, it seems like the bit just chatters off the neck. If i press with more force, the cutter bites, and i see nice chips or ribbons of brass being spit out.

Either method, i often get a neck with significant "flashing" - brass that I need to debur. From the experiences described in this thread, I presume I'm doing something incorrectly.

My drill is brand new - very little runout. The trimmer will spin with little to no wobble, and the case slips in without any vibration/chatter (until the bit engages). I do trim after i run the batch through a full-length resizing die.

Do any of you have suggestions?

[ExtremeX]

Yes... FL resize then trim the cases. As I mentioned above, I like to have a little residual lube from resizing, less friction against the delrin insert...

First step is make sure the trimmer is setup correct… trim a case and measure it to make sure the CTS is adjusted correctly… if not, manually trim a case by hand until you get your desired trim length, I use about 1.750… Loosen the set screws, push the case in all the way, firm, then lower the cutter onto the case and lock the setscrews… trim another case to verify.

I don’t have much wiggle with a fully trimmed case in the trimmer… maybe few thou of play…

Since you have a variable PRM drill, play with a few speeds until you find a sweet spot, finding a speed it likes helps a lot with the cut. I allow the cutter to get a good bite into the case, and rotate the case when I feel the cutting action ease up before pulling it out… I see the chips/ribbons as the trimmer doing its job correctly…

I still chamfer the inside of the case neck with a separate power tool… I don’t deburr the outside, rotating the case mentioned above gives a little deburring action, and it’s been good enough.

It sounds like the trimmer is fine, try a few more and just get a feel for it… wear gloves, its easier on your hands too.

[AndrewTannerCA]

Thanks OP for posting this. I went ahead and got a 223/556 trimmer based on your review and all I can say is WOW!. Trimming is so much easier and the edge is clean. I just posted a short video review of this trimmer on my Youtube channel. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D4vrM...&feature=g-upl

I didn't experience much "scratching" of my cases and the fine marks the trimmer left were an OK compromise to me since the edge the trimmer leaves is so clean.

[adrenalinejunkie]

Thanks OP for posting this. I went ahead and got a 223/556 trimmer based on your review and all I can say is WOW!. Trimming is so much easier and the edge is clean. I just posted a short video review of this trimmer on my Youtube channel. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D4vrM...&feature=g-upl

I didn't experience much "scratching" of my cases and the fine marks the trimmer left were an OK compromise to me since the edge the trimmer leaves is so clean.

Good to hear! Also really nice video man glad people are liking these trimmers.

[CGT80]

That video has me sold on the CTS trimmer. I have an electric lyman, but it is slow, leaves a decent amount of bur, and takes a toll on my hands after a while. My brother and I could use this to prep 223/5.56 brass for our rifles. One person sizing and one trimming, would go quick. Then, maybe one to swage primer pockets and the other to prime. Then when we are ready to load, we just run the brass into the dillon 550 from the powder station. The 550 has a case feeder and won't run rifle brass, otherwise I would prime on the 550 also.

[Wrangler John]

Certainly was an in-depth and informative review, good job.

That being said, trimming is the single case preparation step with the least need for precision and is almost irrelevant to precision accuracy. There are only two instances where case length is a factor in handloading: First, when case length exceeds chamber neck length and causes difficult chambering or raises bullet pull and pressures. The second is in handloading rimless handgun cases where headspace is set on the case mouth. Too short and the primer may not ignite properly or at all, too long and the barrel may not go into battery. Taper crimping rimless handgun cases also is dependent on a uniform trim length, and to a lesser extent roll crimping rimmed revolver cases. In the latter instance trim length isn't as important as uniformity because the crimp die is adjusted to the trim length without regard to headspace concerns.

In bottle necked cases, especially those than do not require bullet crimping, case length is arbitrary, it can be set over a wide range without undue effects on accuracy. Generally, if we remain within the tolerance as listed in the manuals, we are okay. If a load is being assembled for big game hunting, where crimping is desirable, then once again uniformity of case length is more important than the actual length itself. Indeed, in the case of loading the "improved" type rifle cartridges, case necks actually shorten considerably upon form firing, negating the need to trim at all, except for the obsessive handloader as a means of uniforming case length.

After many years of using many different trimmers, from trim and form dies to the lathe tools, I have come to the conclusion that these new generations of "precision" trimmers are unnecessary. There is no actual benefit in using these tools, other than production speed, and even that is dubious. Of the trimmers on the market today, I find the Hornady Cam Lock trimmer to be as accurate as any. This trimmer uses the same Hornady shell holder as the press for case retention, and is adjusted without tools. The only tool needed is an Allen wrench to change the pilot. Other tools include the Forster and RCBS trimmers, and the Lyman which also offers a universal chuck that accommodates all commercial case heads and a tungsten carbide cutter.

All in all, I see no real (practical) advantage to these new trimmers. Of course there is the attraction of a new gadget to try, and even I am suckered into plunking my coin down once in a while, which is why I have a little used sonic case cleaner sitting on the bench.

[adrenalinejunkie]

Certainly was an in-depth and informative review, good job.

That being said, trimming is the single case preparation step with the least need for precision and is almost irrelevant to precision accuracy. There are only two instances where case length is a factor in handloading: First, when case length exceeds chamber neck length and causes difficult chambering or raises bullet pull and pressures. The second is in handloading rimless handgun cases where headspace is set on the case mouth. Too short and the primer may not ignite properly or at all, too long and the barrel may not go into battery. Taper crimping rimless handgun cases also is dependent on a uniform trim length, and to a lesser extent roll crimping rimmed revolver cases. In the latter instance trim length isn't as important as uniformity because the crimp die is adjusted to the trim length without regard to headspace concerns.

In bottle necked cases, especially those than do not require bullet crimping, case length is arbitrary, it can be set over a wide range without undue effects on accuracy. Generally, if we remain within the tolerance as listed in the manuals, we are okay. If a load is being assembled for big game hunting, where crimping is desirable, then once again uniformity of case length is more important than the actual length itself. Indeed, in the case of loading the "improved" type rifle cartridges, case necks actually shorten considerably upon form firing, negating the need to trim at all, except for the obsessive handloader as a means of uniforming case length.

After many years of using many different trimmers, from trim and form dies to the lathe tools, I have come to the conclusion that these new generations of "precision" trimmers are unnecessary. There is no actual benefit in using these tools, other than production speed, and even that is dubious. Of the trimmers on the market today, I find the Hornady Cam Lock trimmer to be as accurate as any. This trimmer uses the same Hornady shell holder as the press for case retention, and is adjusted without tools. The only tool needed is an Allen wrench to change the pilot. Other tools include the Forster and RCBS trimmers, and the Lyman which also offers a universal chuck that accommodates all commercial case heads and a tungsten carbide cutter.

All in all, I see no real (practical) advantage to these new trimmers. Of course there is the attraction of a new gadget to try, and even I am suckered into plunking my coin down once in a while, which is why I have a little used sonic case cleaner sitting on the bench.

I respect that, everyone has their own preferred way of trimming. Case uniformity for me means even chamber pressure, round velocity, and seat length. I just like uniformity in my rounds.

I haven't tried the Cam Lock trimmer or any trimmer like that, but for blasting ammo where i'll be trimming hundreds of rounds in one sitting, just being able to push a round into an already moving trimmer without locking it in drastically cuts the time for less money than one like the Cam Lock.

That's not to say that the Cam Lock and those like it aren't of great quality, I just like something that will give me case uniformity while allowing me to trim hundreds of rounds per hour.

[vorra65]

Anyone use this trimmer with it chucked up in a lathe?

Just curious as to use, horizontal/vertical.

Will be ordering one for sure.

[ExtremeX]

Anyone use this trimmer with it chucked up in a lathe?

Just curious as to use, horizontal/vertical.

Will be ordering one for sure.

[Wrangler John]

I respect that, everyone has their own preferred way of trimming. Case uniformity for me means even chamber pressure, round velocity, and seat length. I just like uniformity in my rounds.

I haven't tried the Cam Lock trimmer or any trimmer like that, but for blasting ammo where i'll be trimming hundreds of rounds in one sitting, just being able to push a round into an already moving trimmer without locking it in drastically cuts the time for less money than one like the Cam Lock.

That's not to say that the Cam Lock and those like it aren't of great quality, I just like something that will give me case uniformity while allowing me to trim hundreds of rounds per hour.

http://www.forsterproducts.com/catal...?prodid=700292 My preference for this tool rather than a dedicated power trimmer such as this one, http://www.creedmoorsports.com/shop/...ith_Motor.html is based on the fact that it can be powered by an inexpensive bench drill press, leaving the drill press function intact. The Lyman product http://www.sinclairintl.com/reloadin...prod38634.aspx also allows for captured trimming without exposing fingers to harm and brass splinters.

Here is a 10 shot group at 100 yards with untrimmed Winchester brass right out of the bag, measured .206". Sometimes I just get too carried away with all the minutia of loading when it isn't necessary.



Happy trimming!

[Finish it]

I love this CTS trimmer, it works perfect every time.
I'm ordering another one!
Thank you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Kappy]

Just ordered. Thanks for the write-up. I'm excited. It takes me forever to load, it seems. Most of that time is spent trimming cases. It can literally take me an hour to process 100 cases... if the battery on my drill doesn't die. I've been using Lee equipment. Hopefully this will work out for me.

I found this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D4vrMAaLWmk

At about 1:30, he says that the manufacturer recommends not using small base dies, even for an AR. Anyone know why?

[johnny1290]

I bought this based on your vid/this post. Looking forward to it!

Thanks OP for posting this. I went ahead and got a 223/556 trimmer based on your review and all I can say is WOW!. Trimming is so much easier and the edge is clean. I just posted a short video review of this trimmer on my Youtube channel. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D4vrM...&feature=g-upl

I didn't experience much "scratching" of my cases and the fine marks the trimmer left were an OK compromise to me since the edge the trimmer leaves is so clean.