casing stuck in resizing die

[Bill Steele]

Single ring carbide dies aren't the cure all for sizing without lubrication we think they are. The ring of carbide that does the sizing is designed to reduce the diameter of the case to hold the bullet, however if set to touch the shell holder, it sizes tapered cases too small at the base. If it sizes into the solid head or web area it can stick, as this isn't what it was designed to do. The carbide ring is designed to draw down the diameter of what is essentially a thin walled tube, which allows it to reverse direction and extract the sized case. When it sizes into the thicker case head or web area it becomes a bar stock draw die where the direction can not be reversed, but the brass must be pushed all the way through the die. Redding makes a push through .40 S&W base die just for this reason. https://www.redding-reloading.com/ne...ase-sizing-die

Properly adjusted carbide ring dies should be adjusted to size only far enough down the case to resize the area contacting the bullet.

If this doesn't size the bottom portion of the case enough to allow chambering of tapered pistol cases (even straight wall cases have some taper), then a dual ring carbide die is recommended. Redding makes a dual ring carbide die: http://redding-reloading.com/online-...g-carbide-dies

Adjusting a carbide die to jam against the shell holder can also stress the ring, causing it to crack and ruin the die.

Cases sized in a carbide die should also be clean and free of grit or dirt. Fired cases, and in some instances new cases, need to be tumble cleaned before reloading. If a case is dirty or gritty, it can stick in a carbide die. Sand is blown between the rails and locomotive wheels to provide traction, and grit will do the same for a case inserted in a carbide die. In the OP's photograph of the case, it appears from some light streaking that grit was the problem. Keep both the die and brass clean is the key.

Hope this helps. I have been loading since 1960, been there done that.

I bought a Redding Dual Ring sizer for my .45ACP loads. The concept of a "no compromise" sizing die really appealed to me. I load mixed headstamps, some with vastly different brass thickness. I thought the Redding DS should allow me to load these mixed headstamps with more consistent results.

I do like the die, but in fact, it too is just a compromise. In fact, the fixed dual rings actually deliver less adjustability and for instance mine will not sufficiently size thinner brass like Remington enough to load .451" jacketed with proper neck tension.

Frankly the $100+ price tag for the Redding DR sizer would be better spent in other areas for most loaders.

I think for most people loading straight walled handgun, using sizer die brands that err on the smaller size, while resulting in more "coke bottle" shapes, will at least ensure you are getting sufficient neck tension across the spectrum of once fired brass you may be using to make you happy.

Sorry for the hijack, just thought people should get one person's opinion of a very expensive die.

[Wrangler John]

I bought a Redding Dual Ring sizer for my .45ACP loads. The concept of a "no compromise" sizing die really appealed to me. I load mixed headstamps, some with vastly different brass thickness. I thought the Redding DS should allow me to load these mixed headstamps with more consistent results.

I do like the die, but in fact, it too is just a compromise. In fact, the fixed dual rings actually deliver less adjustability and for instance mine will not sufficiently size thinner brass like Remington enough to load .451" jacketed with proper neck tension.

Frankly the $100+ price tag for the Redding DR sizer would be better spent in other areas for most loaders.

I think for most people loading straight walled handgun, using sizer die brands that err on the smaller size, while resulting in more "coke bottle" shapes, will at least ensure you are getting sufficient neck tension across the spectrum of once fired brass you may be using to make you happy.

Sorry for the hijack, just thought people should get one person's opinion of a very expensive die.

No need to apologize, you did not hijack the thread, but provided your insight and experience to the reader. Your comments are helpful to making a decision to purchase or not.

Yes you are correct, everything is a compromise. In many instances sizing a particular brand or caliber of case may require a bit of creative die substitution. I had trouble with insufficient neck tension on .45 Colt cases, the bullets could be spun or pulled with finger pressure prior to crimping. This occurred with Winchester and Remington cases especially, and every .45 Colt die set including RCBS Cowboy dies. The solution was to use a Hornady .45 ACP/AR/WIN Titanium Nitride sizing die (adjusted to size the "neck") and expander die, with the .45 Colt seating die. This problem was eliminated when using Starline brass which is thicker.

The same with .38 Special or .357 Magnum cases. If cases are too thin to develop sufficient bullet pull, I resize with a 9mm die and dress a expander plug down if necessary.

The dies I do not have problems with are custom shop items that have been matched to chamber drawings and fired cases. A Hornady hydraulic forming die and chamber matched F.L. set I recently acquired for a rifle makes ammunition with bullet run out of 0"-.0005". This set of dies cost over $350.00, but given the purpose and quantity of use they will receive, that cost is not excessive. Dies do matter.

Most of the problem exists with salvaged mixed brass. One solution is to separate the brass by brand or headstamp, then establish a die set that will work with each, or scrap out or trade off the offending batches. In my case I only purchase new brass, and thus a lot less Tylenol. However this is something I was unable to afford when starting out.

[Cheep]

I too have had stuck cases in rifle and pistol, I just remove the depriming pin and use a punch to knock out the stuck case. Use some brain power here so you don't have some damaged stuff...

[Darklyte27]

did it once with a 308 brass, theres a tool you can buy or do what above did with the picture. you can tap it and put a screw in and start turning slowly, it will eventually get it out.

[jonzer77]

Try this

[sd_fox_racer]

i was using lube too i just didnt get enough or used too much on that case im assuming....one shot is what i was using.

[9mmrevolver]

When I first started loading 223 I got stuck cases alot. This was in both the standard FL sizing die as well as the x-die. Oh boy was it pissing me off. Every time I either tripped out the mandral or I could get pin and cap out thus destroying it. Since then I have 2 back up mandrals and a stuck case remover. Wish I would have thought about using a socket and saving 20 bucks. Turns out I should have trimmed first and or had my die set too deep.

[30Cal]

Did not suspect that was possible with a pistol case. Interesting. Between my dad and I, we've got about 80 years of experience--never heard of sticking a carbide pistol die.

[five.five-six]

casing stuck in resizing die

[Cheep]

Did not suspect that was possible with a pistol case. Interesting. Between my dad and I, we've got about 80 years of experience--never heard of sticking a carbide pistol die.

Ever reload S&W 500?