Neck sizing questions?

[wash]

So I've got an nice bolt action rifle in 6.5*55 Sweede and want to start reloading with an eye toward accuracy and brass life.

I've heard that neck sizing works great when reloading for a particular bolt action because once it fire forms on the first shot, the brass doesn't move very much.

I know full length re-sizing is better for semi-autos and when you have more than one rifle you're reloading for but I have just the one.

Any way I saw a video about using a Lee neck sizing die and it seemed OK but they mentioned Redding was better. What they didn't mention was why. They didn't disassemble the die either so I know what it does but not exactly how it does it.

I might spend the money for a fancy die if there is a reason but so far what I have read is unclear.

The 6.5*55 seems to shoot quite high B.C. bullets at moderate velocities (2,600 fps) but is held back by ammo companies loading with ancient military actions in mind. My action is strong so I may try to push things a little harder and I definitely want to shoot accurately at 600 yards+.

Please tell me exactly what I need for neck sizing this 6.5mm cartridge.

Thanks.

p.s. I'm going to be using PPU or Lapua brass, a Lee case trimmer and uniform the primer pockets (I'll take suggestions for which cutter to buy).

[huckberry668]

Lee Collet die uses collet fingers to squeeze the neck onto a mandrel of a set diameter. Neck tension doesn't change from round to round no matter the headstamp. it gives usually about .002" of tension. You don't need to turn the necks to keep the neck tension and/or internal diameter consistant from case to case.

Redding Type-S bushing die uses different sizes bushings to change the neck OD size/tension. The Redding Type-S bushing die is a great die and the way to go if you want to adjust for neck tension. I have a Redding non-bushing neck sizer die for my 6.5x55. It only works well if I turn the necks. Doesn't do well with mix headstamps.

I had both, can't tell the difference from accuracy's perspective. Lee Collet die makes it easy, dead on accurate and cheap so I only use it now.

Case prep wise, don't forget to debur the flash hole from inside.

[Rule .308]

I have tried a few different conventional style neck dies and have found the Lee Collet Dies to give me the straightest necks with the least amount of runnout. I use them for all of my brass that I neck size only, good stuff.

[gau17]

If Lee makes it for your caliber, get the collet die. Most people hate because they don't know how to set it up properly.

[huckberry668]

If you do get the Lee Collet die, remove the factory lock ring and replace it with a cross bolt type lock ring from Forster or Hornady. That way once it's set it won't change the setting.

[gau17]

If you do get the Lee Collet die, remove the factory lock ring and replace it with a cross bolt type lock ring from Forster or Hornady. That way once it's set it won't change the setting.

+1 /\ this.

[Antihero47]

When I had my bolt .308 I used the Lee neck sizer and got great accuracy with it. +1 on getting a lock ring.

[wash]

Thanks for the help.

[gorblimey]

Lee (and some independent machinists out in net land) will make custom mandrels if you need to adjust neck tension. As well, mandrels may be swappable between certain die models.

I don't think you'll need pocket uniforming with Lapua brass. And, from what I've read, it's largely a waste of time insofar as contribution to the net effect, anyhow.

[wash]

I have read that primer pocket uniforming is not needed and flash hole deburring have little effect on accuracy but I've also read that pocket uniforming is the easiest way to clean the primer pocket and the flash hole deburring only takes seconds and only needs to be done once.

A little wasted time for piece of mind is fine with me.

After a little research, most people have good things to say about K&M cutters. I will probably go that way because the alternatives seem to be more expensive, not carbide or not as well reviewed.

[kmullins]

Wash,

What kind of rifle do you have in 6.5x55 Swede?

IMO, if your looking for accuracy and brass life, you'll want to full-length size everytime. But the trick is, to full-length size just enough so that your brass will chamber. For a bolt action, this means you'll want to bump the shoulder back .001" to .002" every time your resize. The best factory die out there for this, IMO, is the Redding Type-S full-length die. This allows you to use bushings to control neck tension. Full-length sizing is superior to neck-sizing in several ways: first, you will have no reliability issues when chambering rounds. Second, sizing will be more concentric, since your sizing the full-length of the brass every time. Third, you'll give up nothing as far as brass life is concerned, since we will only be bumping the shoulder .001" to .002" every time.

No need to uniform the flash hole or primer pocket on Lapua brass. The flash holes on Lapua are drilled (no bur) and the brass is so consistent as it is that you won't gain anything by uniforming primer pockets.

Best of luck,

Kyle

[Nessal]

+1 on the Lee collet die. A lot of people knock it but I think they probably don't know how to set it up correctly. I shoot tiny little groups with that die and I like how it doesn't work the brass much. It applies about .002" of neck tension which is perfect imo.

One tip that I can give you is when you get your die, take it apart and polish everything with 0000 steel wool and get everything smooth. The collet "fingers" sometimes get stuck until I did this. Now it's absolutely perfect.

[Nessal]

I have read that primer pocket uniforming is not needed and flash hole deburring have little effect on accuracy but I've also read that pocket uniforming is the easiest way to clean the primer pocket and the flash hole deburring only takes seconds and only needs to be done once.

A little wasted time for piece of mind is fine with me.

After a little research, most people have good things to say about K&M cutters. I will probably go that way because the alternatives seem to be more expensive, not carbide or not as well reviewed.

I have found no difference when I cleaned the primer pocket, uniforming the pocket, or deburring the flash hole either. But I just do it because I'm anal...

[gorblimey]

+1 on the Lee collet die. A lot of people knock it but I think they probably don't know how to set it up correctly. I shoot tiny little groups with that die and I like how it doesn't work the brass much. It applies about .002" of neck tension which is perfect imo.

One tip that I can give you is when you get your die, take it apart and polish everything with 0000 steel wool and get everything smooth. The collet "fingers" sometimes get stuck until I did this. Now it's absolutely perfect.

Both surfaces of the collet/sleeve interface in particular seems to benefit from extensive polishing, and from a tiny dab of Imperial or some such now and again. The inside edges of the slits in the neck area can stand to be made less sharp.

IMO, these dies are worth it, even with the elbow grease required. I'd gladly pay 3x to have Redding make them and machine them perfectly, but that's not in the cards.

The Classic Cast single-stage is another Lee product that's a winner. It's not fancy, but it works really well (especially with Lock N Load bushings). That might be it for Lee stuff that's a good choice regardless of budget.

Redding S dies are good for a semi: full length, plus neck control to accommodate different brass thickness and condition. For a bolt, Lee collet is a good and inexpensive way to go - a rare combination indeed.

Just my 0.02 Rothschild NWO Reserve Note