Reloading equipment - Need advice

[xoutxkastx]

Hello All,

I've spent the last few weeks researching reloading on the net. I just receive my Lyman reloading hand book 49th edition. I'm moving forward with setting up my reloading station. I decided to go with the Hornady LNL single stage press for 223/308 loads. Is $330 for the kit shipped over night a good price. I have about 1200-1500 used brass of 223 & 308. I need to buy bullets, powder, and primer. What tools do you recommend I get for case prepping? What other items do you recommend I purchase to get up and running.

Contents of kit:
Lock-N-Load Classic single-stage press
Lock-N-Load Powder Measure
Electronic Scale
Hornady Handbook of Cartridge Reloading
Three Lock-N-Load Die Bushings
Primer Catcher
Positive Priming System
Hand-Held Priming Tool
Universal Reloading Block
Chamfering and De-burring Tool
Primer Turning Plate
One Shot Case Lube

One more thing for my reloading work station I was planning to use kitchen cabinets on each end and use 2 layers of 1" MDF glued together for the top. Do you think that will be sturdy enough for reloading? Thank you in advance.

[john16443]

You may want to consider something to clean the primer pockets for your rifle cases, alnog with a kinetic bullet puller. Didn't see these on the list.

As far as your MDF and cabinets, much will depend on the span between your supports. You may end up putting some supports under the MDF so that it doesn't flex when you operate the press.

[M27]

a tumbler, I like hornady's I have ran mine for over 500 hours and still going strong, but if you plan on doing any real volume look into stainless media. It is worth ever penny and you will never clean another primer pocket again.

a lot of people dont like one shot for rifle cases, I don't have personal experience with it though

[Cowboy T]

Personally, I would replace the digital scale with a quality beam scale. I find that the digital ones eat up batteries, and when those batteries start getting a little low, the digital jobbers start drifting. The RCBS 505 and Dillon Eliminator are two well-made beam-scale units and are rock-solid.

No problem on the kitchen cabinets. However, I personally would replace the MDF with a couple of 3/4" thick plywood sheets. Plywood is stronger than MDF and takes screws better. A sheet of melamine on top with some contact cement would give you a nice, smooth surface, for not a lot of money. I would also put some braces under your plywood for support, like john16443 suggests.

Finally, a kinetic bullet puller is a good idea. I use the cheapie Frankford Arsenal one with good results.

[kmca]

Don't see any case trimmer or calipers on your list. I prefer using a digital micrometer myself, just easier.
I would reconsider the One Shot lube. I've seen several problems using that stuff on rifle cases.

[Munk]

Personally, I would replace the digital scale with a quality beam scale. I find that the digital ones eat up batteries, and when those batteries start getting a little low, the digital jobbers start drifting. The RCBS 505 and Dillon Eliminator are two well-made beam-scale units and are rock-solid.

No problem on the kitchen cabinets. However, I personally would replace the MDF with a couple of 3/4" thick plywood sheets. Plywood is stronger than MDF and takes screws better. A sheet of melamine on top with some contact cement would give you a nice, smooth surface, for not a lot of money. I would also put some braces under your plywood for support, like john16443 suggests.

Finally, a kinetic bullet puller is a good idea. I use the cheapie Frankford Arsenal one with good results.

I have a 5-0-5 and I love it. It holds balance very well, and can often be found super cheap used.

Pretty much all kinetic pullers are made by the same company with the same molds, and the only difference is the color of the plastic. Make sure you get one with a collet if you buy used, because that's the part that's easy to lose. Some have the dump hole open, so that when you're done smacking it around, it spits powder everywhere, I'm not a fan of the open-hole style.

[damndave]

I would get the following.

Tumbler and media
Calipers
Case trimmer
Dies
Bullet Puller (kinetic)
Neck brush (helps get all the brass shavings out after trimming)
More Hornady Die Bushings (You will need one for each die)


I wouldn't worry about the primer pockets unless you will be doing some crazy precision shooting.

For case trimming, I highly recommend some sort of one where you can mount it on a drill like the Possum Hollow or WFT. Your hands will thank you for it.

Beam scales are nice, but take more time. I use a Chargemaster which plugs into the wall so I don't have the battery issue Cowboy_T talks about.

You only need a primer turning plate if you are using a progressive. They turn the primer anvil side down so you can put them in the pickup tubes.

Kitchen cabinets should be fine. If it isn't sturdy enough for you, anchor it to the wall.

For bullets, powder and primers.
You can't go wrong with Sierra Matchking or Hornady, Varget or R15, CCI or Federal primers. All comes down to what you will be shooting them out of and from what distances.

[glock 357]

Don't see any case trimmer or calipers on your list. I prefer using a digital micrometer myself, just easier.
I would reconsider the One Shot lube. I've seen several problems using that stuff on rifle cases.

Good Call kmca! Saw that missing but you beat me to the punch. Those are pretty important as well.

[MMA]

I second (third?) the 5-0-5. Either way, get the "check weights" to verify accuracy.

If you're only going to load a couple of cartridges, I'd skip the kinetic hammer and buy a Hornady Cam Lock pullet puller. They screw into the press and you use a lever to extract the bullet. You'll need a separate collet for each caliber.

Mitutoyo and Starret make excellent calipers. They're a bit pricey but they can be recalibrated if you drop them. I bought the Mitutoyo from Grainger's and am very happy with it.

If you don't like the loading blocks that come with the kit (or more likely, you'll need more), Sinclair sells some plastic ones that are pretty good.

MTM cartridge boxes are handy for transporting ammo to the range. http://www.mtmcase-gard.com/index.php

RCBS makes a reloading DVD, that's worth watching a couple of times if you're just starting out.

most important, don't get any reloading data off the internets, especially if it's labeled "new hot load!!". But since the first thing you bought was a manual, I think you know that.

Have fun!! It's a good feeling to shoot ammo you made yourself.

[Munk]

I second (third?) the 5-0-5. Either way, get the "check weights" to verify accuracy.

If you're only going to load a couple of cartridges, I'd skip the kinetic hammer and buy a Hornady Cam Lock pullet puller. They screw into the press and you use a lever to extract the bullet. You'll need a separate collet for each caliber.

Mitutoyo and Starret make excellent calipers. They're a bit pricey but they can be recalibrated if you drop them. I bought the Mitutoyo from Grainger's and am very happy with it.

If you don't like the loading blocks that come with the kit (or more likely, you'll need more), Sinclair sells some plastic ones that are pretty good.

MTM cartridge boxes are handy for transporting ammo to the range. http://www.mtmcase-gard.com/index.php

RCBS makes a reloading DVD, that's worth watching a couple of times if you're just starting out.

most important, don't get any reloading data off the internets, especially if it's labeled "new hot load!!". But since the first thing you bought was a manual, I think you know that.

Have fun!! It's a good feeling to shoot ammo you made yourself.

One of the best loading blocks i've seen is from MTM, and it's very well priced.

If you want cheap boxes from MTM or others, hit up opticsplanet. The boxes are only a couple bucks a piece, and there's almost always a 5% or better coupon available, AND free shipping on orders over a certain dollar amount.

Just be warned, if an item is backlogged, you can expect to have all or part of your order held up for weeks or months. I've been waiting 2 months now for 3 items on my last order because at the time, all 3 were out of stock (not that the site will tell you), and when two of them came in, the dollar value of those two wasn't high enough to qualify for another free shipping, so if I wanted them while the third was still waiting, i'd have to pay a 7$ shipping fee. In theory, I SHOULD be getting those last 3 items later this week.

[xoutxkastx]

Hey Brothers. Thanks for all the advise. My reloading area is starting to come together. I was lucky enough to have a 8x8 room to work in. I still have some items on order but should be reloading hopefully by end of month. Darn backorders what can you do.

[XDRoX]

Looks great. And I see you didn't make the rookie mistake of forgetting about the TV. Good job.

Now get the LNL out of the box and load some rounds.

[stilly]

secksie!

[damndave]

Excellent job. I wish I had that much space.

Make sure to have the AC off when weighing powder charges. Any little movement will throw it off.

[roc_my_tims]

Nice start to your reloading, I'm starting this month also. Need to build a bench first also cool that your not in the garage.