Reloading equipment rust prevention

[popeye4]

Breakfree CLP works great as well. When I was at Lassen College taking a few gunsmithing courses in the early 2000s, they did an informal test using several different commonly available gun oils. It consisted of taking several old barrels, applying the subject oil, and throwing them in a snowbank (it was winter). I believe the Rem-oil barrel started rusting the next day. The Breakfree barrel was still rust free after about a month of outside exposure (no, it wasn't stainless). Yeah, it was sort of a meatball test, wouldn't pass the "Design of Experiment" requirements of Six Sigma, but it showed me I don't have to worry much about rust when I've oiled with Breakfree!

[Justintoxicated]

Breakfree CLP works great as well. When I was at Lassen College taking a few gunsmithing courses in the early 2000s, they did an informal test using several different commonly available gun oils. It consisted of taking several old barrels, applying the subject oil, and throwing them in a snowbank (it was winter). I believe the Rem-oil barrel started rusting the next day. The Breakfree barrel was still rust free after about a month of outside exposure (no, it wasn't stainless). Yeah, it was sort of a meatball test, wouldn't pass the "Design of Experiment" requirements of Six Sigma, but it showed me I don't have to worry much about rust when I've oiled with Breakfree!

Don't put break free on the powder dropper insert!

[popeye4]

Don't put break free on the powder dropper insert!

For corrosion control, Breakfree is applied then wiped off, not left wet (that's for AR bolt carriers).

[Fyathyrio]

Just wanted to follow up on this, another thread reminded me that I hadn't updated. After wiping down the outside surface of my guns, I've not had any rust since. I've used them all since initially treating the outside with Eezox, but I decided to continue using normal cleaning procedures for bore and barrel with Hoppe's and CLP. After the initial and followup treatment with Eezox, I've not had any rusting issues on my weapons. The worst offenders are my 10/22 and shotgun, both are still good after three months.

My dies and reloading equipment have also stayed clear of rust, they are stored in the garage with no other particular protection beyond original box and inside a tool chest. The drill press chuck pictured above looks almost as good as in the picture, just not as shiny...no rust has returned except for a small area where I likely scraped the protective coating off while working on various projects.

For me at least, Eezox = good stuff!

[gau17]

Kroil oil for me

[morrow]

Hornady really needs to learn to PLATE THEIR PARTS, especially ones INSIDE the powder measure! Can't believe how cheap they are on things like that!

[theduece]

For rust removal have you tried soaking parts in vinegar? I had always heard it was good but hadn't tried it. Well I finally got around to trying it and wow seriously no work no scrubbing just let it soak. It will eat rust, anodizing, paint, and I'm sure other stuff as well.

[thevic]

I used T9 and 0000 steel wool, maybe more course if the rust is thick.

When I first oiled the ram on my press, i kept using T9 as lube and it would be awesome for a few hours and then the press would really stiffen up. Eventually I found out T9 turns into a wax layer and removed it from the press and just used motor oil as lubr and never looked back.

I do spray everything except the inside of my dies with T9 and whipe it down. Leaves a very thin wax layer and the parts never rust anymore. I hear it is comparible to Eezox.

http://www.6mmbr.com/corrosiontest.html

[Endofcomment]

I had the same thing happen on my LnL. After almost complete disassembly and cleaning the rust off I found this stuff that I had bought along time ago works nicely jig-a-loo lube it's an "invisible" silicone dry film and it leaves just enough of a film that it isn't slimy or oily and keeps rust away. I lightly dust my shell plate and sub plate and die bodies, never the inside of the dies, with it then wipe all excess of and your good. I also enacted a reloading rule, always wear nitrile gloves when touching the press or dies as my big meaty claws are part of the culprit.

[Lead Waster]

How about good ol' Johnson's Paste Wax? Woodworkers use it on their cast iron table saws.

[SixPointEight]

I have some light rust forming on some of my stuff that's been sitting about 6 months. Starting with my little old hand press I'm gonna pull it all apart, clean it up, and try some froglube on it. See if that works. Only thing I won't touch is the inside of the dies. Those I'll just clean off and maybe coat with a little sizing wax.

[Revoman]

I use Trewax, a similar product to Johnson's wax. Once the item is clear of rust, it protects great, there is no worry of contaminating the powder/primer drops either.

But then again, I also polished and waxed the inside of my powder drop and all of the touching parts associated with same.

[GeoffLinder]

I have some light rust forming on some of my stuff that's been sitting about 6 months. Starting with my little old hand press I'm gonna pull it all apart, clean it up, and try some froglube on it. See if that works. Only thing I won't touch is the inside of the dies. Those I'll just clean off and maybe coat with a little sizing wax.

Squirt it thoroughly with WD-40 a couple times and then blow it clean with some compressed air if you can or shake it out and let it sit for a bit.

[Brian1979]

http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/sta-dri/13911

I also use Eezox and fidn it to work better then WD and Kroil. I also place a few of the bags linked above around me press and toss a sheet over it. Hasnt been an issue since doing this. Prior to this method I found rust on my Dillon dies and had to polish it off with steel wool and then treated with Eezox. My press is in the garage so when the wet cars come in from driving and are hot it creates lots of humidity.