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I've noticed that some of my reloading dies and reloading equipment had started getting some rust forming, and wanted to put a stop to it with a quickness. I am also having issues with my guns rusting, even my stainless one. Seems I'm a "ruster" when it comes to weapons I handle. I did some research and came up with a handful of products. I emailed five, got a response from three, and here's the info for your viewing pleasure. They are...
First is Evapo-Rust remover and Rust Bandit preventer. This one will remove blueing and other metal markings, so it would cause damage to gun surfaces and the precision die markings. This combination may be the best for some Jeep repairs tho...but Rust Bandit says it's for parts stored inside. Perhaps as metal prep prior to painting new parts. They did respond to my emailed questions at least.
Second is Boeshield T-9. They didn't reply to my email, but I know they received it because I got a confirmation from their web based system. Eff-em!
Third is Tetra Gun Care. They can suck it cuz they didn't reply to my questions, and their website is woefully inadequate on information.
Fourth up is CorrosionX. This is an oil based product, I didn't think it would be compatible with reloading, and they replied saying they wouldn't recommend it for that purpose. I do suspect, based on it's modern materials and synthetic additives that it is superior to WD-40. I didn't do much research on this product to support that supposition though as I'd already rejected it due to composition.
Last but not least is Eezox. They responded to my email on a holiday weekend, the guy who answered also reloads and used it on his equipment, and he also said it would remove the surface rust even though it's not really advertised for that purpose. Here's his reply...
I had also found two very interesting studies where Eezox performed very well. This one from 6mmBR.com and this one from The Gun Zone. Eezox kicked *** in both studies against a wide variety of similar products. I was sold enough to give it a try. I ordered one 7 oz spray bottle and two small 1.5 oz drip spout bottles last Saturday night and the USPS had them in my hot little hands here in SoCal on Thursday. Great service considering it was a holiday weekend and they came from Ohio near the PA border; the total with shipping was $24.05. I also received a tracking notice via email so I knew it had actually shipped and I could check progress. Nice customer service!
The Eezox page says that because it's heavier then water, and because of it's molecular bonding properties, it will displace water since water will float on top of it. IIRC, it's similar to synthetic oil additives without the oil. It sprays from the can fine, or drips from the bottles with good control...similar to CLP. It's the same product from either delivery system...basically a solvent carrier that slowly evaporates to leave the protective product behind. Because of the solvent I recommend using in a well ventilated area, and test before using near plastic or rubber. The smell isn't that bad, better then Hoppe's #9 IMHO...but it can get strong and does linger. I used it with gun cleaning patches and a T shirt, with occasional scrubbing with a nylon cleaning brush.
Prior to putting this stuff on my reloading equipment, and eventually my guns, I wanted to try it out on something benign. Here's the chuck of my five year old drill press...
Here's the only tools I used...
And here's what it looked like after only about 10~15 minutes of work! Pretty impressive I think.
OK, after waiting a bit to see what kind of residue would be left after it dried (nothing but a slight shine) I felt that it was safe enough to use on my reloading stuff. My main concern initially, and the reason I sent out the emails requesting info on these products, is I didn't want something that would possibly contaminate the powder or primers. It looks like this will do the job as long as the directions are followed.
Here's what the linkage on my powder drop used to look like...
Here's what it looks like now...not as dramatic a change as with the drill press chuck, but I suspect that the higher quality steel alloy used in the reloading components has something to do with this.
I'll follow Paul's suggestions and go back in a couple days and try again. I may break out the Dremel and use some tiny buffing pads I have to increase the cleaning action, or at least to save a little elbow grease. Overall I'm very impressed with how well it cleaned up my reloading equipment. I got to spend a few hours in the garage taking things apart and removing the rust. Quality time in the man cave with another quality product that works better then advertised is always great time spent.
Once I have some dirty guns to clean I'll update this. I'm usually suspicious of do it all products, but for guns this is advertised as a cleaner, lube and protectant. We'll see how well it handles copper and lead fouling, and I'll keep a real close eye on how well it lubricates the various actions. Since I frequently shoot in the desert, the dry aspect is appealing, but ARs usually like it a little wet! Also, I'm a little concerned about dry lube on a stainless slide...how well will it prevent galling? Overall, my gun collection has a pretty rough environment to deal with...hot days, cool damp nights, salt air, and desert use, so this will be a good test of a new (to me) product.
First is Evapo-Rust remover and Rust Bandit preventer. This one will remove blueing and other metal markings, so it would cause damage to gun surfaces and the precision die markings. This combination may be the best for some Jeep repairs tho...but Rust Bandit says it's for parts stored inside. Perhaps as metal prep prior to painting new parts. They did respond to my emailed questions at least.
Second is Boeshield T-9. They didn't reply to my email, but I know they received it because I got a confirmation from their web based system. Eff-em!
Third is Tetra Gun Care. They can suck it cuz they didn't reply to my questions, and their website is woefully inadequate on information.
Fourth up is CorrosionX. This is an oil based product, I didn't think it would be compatible with reloading, and they replied saying they wouldn't recommend it for that purpose. I do suspect, based on it's modern materials and synthetic additives that it is superior to WD-40. I didn't do much research on this product to support that supposition though as I'd already rejected it due to composition.
Last but not least is Eezox. They responded to my email on a holiday weekend, the guy who answered also reloads and used it on his equipment, and he also said it would remove the surface rust even though it's not really advertised for that purpose. Here's his reply...
Hi Mark,
I haven't done any reloading for a few years, but have treated my dies and loaders with great results when I was a reloader. Makes everything slick so they work smoothly and residue does not stick to them. I think you will like the results. If not, you can remove the Eezox from them with rubbing alcohol.
It won't matter how you apply the Eezox, as long as you leave just a thin coating to dry (same as on your guns). Eezox will remove the rust for you, but one thing to watch for....you should check every few days for a while after cleaning to see if more rust appears in the same places. Eezox will continue to bring out any embedded rust. If it does reappear, simply remove it with a patch or cloth dampened with Eezox. When all the rust is eliminated, you should not have any more rust problems. If there are any pits, they will stay though.
Thanks for asking,
Paul Almashy
I haven't done any reloading for a few years, but have treated my dies and loaders with great results when I was a reloader. Makes everything slick so they work smoothly and residue does not stick to them. I think you will like the results. If not, you can remove the Eezox from them with rubbing alcohol.
It won't matter how you apply the Eezox, as long as you leave just a thin coating to dry (same as on your guns). Eezox will remove the rust for you, but one thing to watch for....you should check every few days for a while after cleaning to see if more rust appears in the same places. Eezox will continue to bring out any embedded rust. If it does reappear, simply remove it with a patch or cloth dampened with Eezox. When all the rust is eliminated, you should not have any more rust problems. If there are any pits, they will stay though.
Thanks for asking,
Paul Almashy
The Eezox page says that because it's heavier then water, and because of it's molecular bonding properties, it will displace water since water will float on top of it. IIRC, it's similar to synthetic oil additives without the oil. It sprays from the can fine, or drips from the bottles with good control...similar to CLP. It's the same product from either delivery system...basically a solvent carrier that slowly evaporates to leave the protective product behind. Because of the solvent I recommend using in a well ventilated area, and test before using near plastic or rubber. The smell isn't that bad, better then Hoppe's #9 IMHO...but it can get strong and does linger. I used it with gun cleaning patches and a T shirt, with occasional scrubbing with a nylon cleaning brush.
Prior to putting this stuff on my reloading equipment, and eventually my guns, I wanted to try it out on something benign. Here's the chuck of my five year old drill press...
Here's the only tools I used...
And here's what it looked like after only about 10~15 minutes of work! Pretty impressive I think.
OK, after waiting a bit to see what kind of residue would be left after it dried (nothing but a slight shine) I felt that it was safe enough to use on my reloading stuff. My main concern initially, and the reason I sent out the emails requesting info on these products, is I didn't want something that would possibly contaminate the powder or primers. It looks like this will do the job as long as the directions are followed.
Here's what the linkage on my powder drop used to look like...
Here's what it looks like now...not as dramatic a change as with the drill press chuck, but I suspect that the higher quality steel alloy used in the reloading components has something to do with this.
I'll follow Paul's suggestions and go back in a couple days and try again. I may break out the Dremel and use some tiny buffing pads I have to increase the cleaning action, or at least to save a little elbow grease. Overall I'm very impressed with how well it cleaned up my reloading equipment. I got to spend a few hours in the garage taking things apart and removing the rust. Quality time in the man cave with another quality product that works better then advertised is always great time spent.
Once I have some dirty guns to clean I'll update this. I'm usually suspicious of do it all products, but for guns this is advertised as a cleaner, lube and protectant. We'll see how well it handles copper and lead fouling, and I'll keep a real close eye on how well it lubricates the various actions. Since I frequently shoot in the desert, the dry aspect is appealing, but ARs usually like it a little wet! Also, I'm a little concerned about dry lube on a stainless slide...how well will it prevent galling? Overall, my gun collection has a pretty rough environment to deal with...hot days, cool damp nights, salt air, and desert use, so this will be a good test of a new (to me) product.
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