Work up loads for ar15

[SixPointEight]

I have a 16" ar15 that I've been working up loads for, testing accuracy etc. However I've come to a cross roads. The scope I have on there, I got for free from a friend. No idea what brand, probably around NCStar level at best. The last two times I took it out to the range, I've spent the whole day chasing a zero. At 25 yards 4 clicks to the left moved the POI about 3 inches, then took about 12 clicks back to the right to get it moved 2.5" back the other way. So I'm gonna put my irons back on there. The problem is, I'm not good enough with irons to be able to isolate whether a load is more accurate than another load. So my question is...do you work up loads for you m4 style rifles? Or do you load from min to max, find where you get pressure signs, then back it up a little? If I really should work up the load for accuracy, then I'll try and find someone with a rest that can come out to the range with me, that way I can be sure to have consistent groupings.

[bjl333]

I have a 16" ar15 that I've been working up loads for, testing accuracy etc. However I've come to a cross roads. The scope I have on there, I got for free from a friend. No idea what brand, probably around NCStar level at best. The last two times I took it out to the range, I've spent the whole day chasing a zero. At 25 yards 4 clicks to the left moved the POI about 3 inches, then took about 12 clicks back to the right to get it moved 2.5" back the other way. So I'm gonna put my irons back on there. The problem is, I'm not good enough with irons to be able to isolate whether a load is more accurate than another load. So my question is...do you work up loads for you m4 style rifles? Or do you load from min to max, find where you get pressure signs, then back it up a little? If I really should work up the load for accuracy, then I'll try and find someone with a rest that can come out to the range with me, that way I can be sure to have consistent groupings.

I think you'll need a new scope !!!

If you are not gonna shoot at longer ranges then don't bother with a scope. But to work up a good load you definately need a scope, and you have to be consistant with shooting that scope.

The loads you work up will depends on what you want to do with it. If all you want is killing paper then have all the different loads. Make loads with different bullets and powder, or ask for a good load here. Make down which one is the most accurate and repeat.

[SixPointEight]

I think you'll need a new scope !!!

If you are not gonna shoot at longer ranges then don't bother with a scope. But to work up a good load you definately need a scope, and you have to be consistant with shooting that scope.

The loads you work up will depends on what you want to do with it. If all you want is killing paper then have all the different loads. Make loads with different bullets and powder, or ask for a good load here. Make down which one is the most accurate and repeat.

I don't think this rifle will end up being a hunting gun. Soon I'll have a 6.8 AR and a .223 or .308 bolt gun, so those will be my accuracy guns, and this will become a toy for fun and carbine classes. So I'm half tempted to just look up some loads for these bullets.

[Boots]

yeah, sounds like it's a scope issue. On the lower end, and even some higher priced models, have issues with recoil. A .223/5.56 in itself doesn't have the recoil than a larger caliber... but because of the fact to have a bolt slamming back into a buffer/spring assy, a scope can still be thrown off zero.
I myself went with the Monarch line of scopes from Nikon. There are also more scopes coming out these days specifically aimed at AR platforms. Might be worth looking into.

[foxtrotuniformlima]

All you need for this type of work is a good quality fixed 4 power scope.

Simmons, Nikon, Burris, Bushnell - all make a lower end scope that will work just fine for this. I use an older beat up Leupold 4x for this exact function.

Check Ebay. You just might pick up a deal.

[SixPointEight]

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=417845

If necessary I suppose I could get something like the above. It's only going to be used for load dev at 100-300 yards. Though 4x at 300 isn't particularly great. But hey, it's cheap.

[ExtremeX]

I would look into a scope upgrade as well... You dont need to spend gobs of cash to get a decent scope that will hold zero with good optics. Brands like Redfeild and Vortex make excellent scopes at around the $150-$200 mark.

I picked up a 3-9x40 Vortex Diamondback based on this review.

http://www.opticstalk.com/topic21176.html

[bjl333]

I actually run a Barska for under a hundred and so far its holding very good. Couple thousand rounds and the zero is still there. I wouldn't use it on a 1000yds gun but for plinking I think they are gtg !!

[Boots]

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct...tNumber=417845

If necessary I suppose I could get something like the above. It's only going to be used for load dev at 100-300 yards. Though 4x at 300 isn't particularly great. But hey, it's cheap.

yes, but remember, you get what you pay for. Make sure it's designed to take the recoil of a AR platform. I made the mistake on my first two scopes and the third I bit the bullet (so to speak) and haven't regretted the purchase.

[ocabj]

Whenever I work up loads on competition service rifles, I don't bother with a scope. It's usually because I set the mechanical windage zero when I break-in and during that time, I'm getting an assessment of accuracy at that point. Then since I zero at 200 yards for all three positions (standing, sitting, and prone), I'm usually using that time (particularly in prone) to test accuracy. If my load for some reason isn't good in the new gun, then I adjust accordingly. As long as the gun can hold the X-ring on the SR target at 200, I'm fine. Typically I'll get 1MOA or better out of my go to load for the barrels I use (20" 1:7" Wylde), so holding X-ring at 200 isn't a problem.

But if for some reason I really need to throw a scope on the AR, I have a Weaver T36 (36x fixed magnification) that I have sitting in a drawer that I can throw on it and do tests at 300 yards. 300 is where I like to get a good test of accuracy since most any load will shoot at 200 yards. 300 yards is where you can find it out if a load is going to fall apart.