noob reloader question: full length resize vs neck resize?

[Hornet_RN]

I am purchasing an RCBS Rock Chucker pretty soon and am planning to purchase reloading dies for .308 Win for Remington 700.

My question is should I buy the neck resizing die, along with the standard resizing die set (which includes the full neck resizing die and bullet seating die)? also, most importantly, what is the correct way to use these dies?

A few guys at my gun club say, that since I'm reloading for a bolt action rifle, that I should really neck resize the cartridge case only for fired brass that was shot in my Remington 700. Reason being, that fired brass already has the shape of the chamber of my rifle, so it will be a custom fit.

HOWEVER...a few guys at my gun club also say that if you neck resize only, after a few reloads from the same batch of brass, that I will eventually expand the brass so much that I will not be able to extract the spent cartridge case from the barrel. So then others tell me to full length resize to prevent that from happening.

So i guess it would be best to neck resize only about 3-4 times, then after that, maybe full length resize to make sure i could still extract the case after a few reloads?

thanks for helping out a noob

[Boots]

I am purchasing an RCBS Rock Chucker pretty soon and am planning to purchase reloading dies for .308 Win for Remington 700.

My question is should I buy the neck resizing die, along with the standard resizing die set (which includes the full neck resizing die and bullet seating die)? also, most importantly, what is the correct way to use these dies?

A few guys at my gun club say, that since I'm reloading for a bolt action rifle, that I should really neck resize the cartridge case only for fired brass that was shot in my Remington 700. Reason being, that fired brass already has the shape of the chamber of my rifle, so it will be a custom fit.

HOWEVER...a few guys at my gun club also say that if you neck resize only, after a few reloads from the same batch of brass, that I will eventually expand the brass so much that I will not be able to extract the spent cartridge case from the barrel. So then others tell me to full length resize to prevent that from happening.

So i guess it would be best to neck resize only about 3-4 times, then after that, maybe full length resize to make sure i could still extract the case after a few reloads?

thanks for helping out a noob

Being a noob myself, but from what I've read and been told, that sounds like the plan. But I also would like to hear from those experienced because once I'm comfortable with .223, I will start with my .308 brass.

[Cochise82]

You will always have to "at least" neck size your brass after you shoot it. This will make sure that the mouth opening is the proper diameter to accept the bullet. You will want to full length size the brass if:

1) You are using brass that was not shot from your specific gun.
2) You have reloaded the same brass several times.
3) You are reloading ammo that may be used in someone else's gun.
4) There is/may be flaws in the brass that exceed those expected in a fired round.

You want to neck size as much as possible because this will put less stress on the casing and give it a longer life. When in doubt, full length sizing is the safer bet. Make sure to lube the case when full length sizing and always check for splitting and/or wall thicknesses that may be too thin to hold a bullet securely.

[Hornet_RN]

Being a noob myself, but from what I've read and been told, that sounds like the plan. But I also would like to hear from those experienced because once I'm comfortable with .223, I will start with my .308 brass.

awesome to know somebody else has the same questions...i don't feel alone...heh heh.

i guess my question really is what dies should i use for reloading cartridges for bolt action rifles?

my primary use for my bolt action rifle is for Silhouette shoots and high power matches at my local gun club. Although i have a hunting license, i realized i'm not much of a great hunter...heh heh (i.e. can never find animals...heh)

[Hornet_RN]

When in doubt, full length sizing is the safer bet.

thank you for that advice!

[Cochise82]

Full length sizing your brass can only help the accuracy of your round. Just make sure to watch for signs of wearing of the brass each time.

[wooger]

My rifles shoot more accurately with neck sized brass.

[Boots]

awesome to know somebody else has the same questions...i don't feel alone...heh heh.

i guess my question really is what dies should i use for reloading cartridges for bolt action rifles?

my primary use for my bolt action rifle is for Silhouette shoots and high power matches at my local gun club. Although i have a hunting license, i realized i'm not much of a great hunter...heh heh (i.e. can never find animals...heh)

I'm like you... shooting a bolt action, but so far only on silhouette/paper targets.
Haven't done any hunting yet.

[Boots]

My rifles shoot more accurately with neck sized brass.

Correct me if I'm wrong... a full size die also sizes the neck?

As for me (when I get started in my .308 stuff) I'm going to neck size my brass and on the third reload, full size them so I can avoid any chambering/extracting difficulties.

[tujungatoes]

Full length sizing your brass can only help the accuracy of your round. Just make sure to watch for signs of wearing of the brass each time.

full length sizing isn't going to help your accuracy. it's just going to make sure the round chambers easily. a must for automatics, but not for a bolt gun.


to the O.P. get the neck die, and some dry lube(I use the lyman stuff). you'r brass will last considerably longer if you arent working the s*** out of it full length sizing all the time. also you'll almost never have to trim.

Correct me if I'm wrong... a full size die also sizes the neck?

correct. it sizes the entire case.

[bjl333]

Full length sizing your brass can only help the accuracy of your round. Just make sure to watch for signs of wearing of the brass each time.

Sorry to inform you but if the OP shoots only out of one bolt gun then neck size is better for accuracy. The brass will be formed to the size of the chamber thus lessen the movment of the brass.
And if the OP will make a dummie round and load the bullet a little longer then usual. He then can mark the bullet with perm marker to see if the bullet is contacting the rifling. Repeat but sit the bullet a tiny bit deeper each time until there is no rifling mark on the bullet. This way the bullet will not have to make the JUMP from chamber to rifling. The bullet will be staplized from the moment it leaves the casing thus improving accuracy.

[Cochise82]

Sorry to inform you but if the OP shoots only out of one bolt gun then neck size is better for accuracy. The brass will be formed to the size of the chamber thus lessen the movment of the brass.
And if the OP will make a dummie round and load the bullet a little longer then usual. He then can mark the bullet with perm marker to see if the bullet is contacting the rifling. Repeat but sit the bullet a tiny bit deeper each time until there is no rifling mark on the bullet. This way the bullet will not have to make the JUMP from chamber to rifling. The bullet will be staplized from the moment it leaves the casing thus improving accuracy.

You're right, it's late and I was generalizing the ammo as if he were reloading for an unknown rifle. Thanks for calling me on that. Just so the OP knows, a form fitted casing for one bolt action .223 IS NOT going to be form fitted to another bolt action .223, even if it's the same make and model. Rifles are like fingerprints, no two are identical.

[hypnoman]

Thanks for asking your question, Hornet RN, so that others, like me, can learn as well . . . and thanks for all the great tips for more experienced reloaders!!

[Boots]

Sorry to inform you but if the OP shoots only out of one bolt gun then neck size is better for accuracy. The brass will be formed to the size of the chamber thus lessen the movment of the brass.
And if the OP will make a dummie round and load the bullet a little longer then usual. He then can mark the bullet with perm marker to see if the bullet is contacting the rifling. Repeat but sit the bullet a tiny bit deeper each time until there is no rifling mark on the bullet. This way the bullet will not have to make the JUMP from chamber to rifling. The bullet will be staplized from the moment it leaves the casing thus improving accuracy.

Wow.. awesome advice. Basically a poor man's C.O.L. gauge.
I will remember what when I start seating.

[Hornet_RN]

this is the O.P., thanks for all the responses

i guess, i should also say that i'm really just going to make the lightest load possible to knock down steel animals and accurately make tight groups at matches. so i'm hoping that i really do not have to full length resize all the time because the charge would be so light.

so yes, thanks for the responses...now off to midwayusa.com and purchase the neck size die and some lyman dry lube! (i'll probably end up ordering a bunch of other crap too though...heh)