Is this a good kit for a first time reloader?

[C.G.]

In case you decide on the RCBS Rockchucker Supreme, this is where I bought mine, service is good and the lowest price I found:

http://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/item.asp?sku=000449357

You can always get a progressive kit for it later, if you feel you need it.

[ahead]

Reloading for the fun of it is a fine thing. But its always nice to temper it with a little reality. Reloading for a semi auto rifle is definately the deep end of the reloading pool, since the M1A has a reputation for being hard on brass and you're dealing with an expensive gun running at high pressures. There's lots of stuff to get down before you start risking that expensive gun.

Based on what you say you're goals are WRT to reloading I'd suggest you pick up a Dillon 550b and start reloading pistol cartridges and work your way up to feeding the springfield.

this post almost makes me rethink reloading for my M1A. is this post accurate or is Wulf off in his post (no offence Wulf)? is reloading for a semi-auto/gas operated rifle difficult or will i be ok as long as i stick to the right specs and be careful? i dont really plan on getting very creative with my loads, ill probably try out what other people have proven works and which ever one turns out to work for me ill stick to that specific load.

In case you decide on the RCBS Rockchucker Supreme, this is where I bought mine, service is good and the lowest price I found:

http://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/item.asp?sku=000449357

You can always get a progressive kit for it later, if you feel you need it.

hey thanks thats 30 bucks cheaper than where i was gonna buy it from.

[Wulf]

this post almost makes me rethink reloading for my M1A. is this post accurate or is Wulf off in his post (no offence Wulf)? is reloading for a semi-auto/gas operated rifle difficult or will i be ok as long as i stick to the right specs and be careful?

Read for yourself. http://www.zediker.com/downloads/14_loading.pdf

[anotherted]

I bought the LEE Anniversary Kit. It was a big mistake. It claimed that it came with "all you need to begin reloading". BS. I had to get a TON of other stuff to begin. Now im up and running. Its not to difficult to reload. Just do ALOT of reading. I read for a few months before i reloaded my first round. ANd yeah, get a digi scale. Dont mess with the beam scales; you'll never want to reload again.

PS. I would definitely not jump right in reloading for my semi's. Try reloading at least a few times for bolt actions till you get the hang of it. It would sure be a shame to blow one up.

[MisterDudeManGuy]

I've been reloading for semi's for awhile now (years), and I can say that I would not start out there. Semi's are hard on brass, and that doesn't really just mean that the brass gets dented when it gets tossed. It means that the rounds get harsh treatment through the entire cycle of the weapon, and bad things can happen quickly if the proper steps are not taken at the reloading bench. Read about slam fires. Read about firing out of battery. Then consider whether you will be willing to be very, very diligent.

I'd start with a turret press and see where you go from there. The reason I say that is because you can turn out premium ammo with some effort, and you will be forced into taking things slowly. Even moving slowly, you should be able to get a couple hundred rounds in an evening, and that's if you do a lot of optional steps.

Good luck!

[T-Bear]

In case you decide on the RCBS Rockchucker Supreme, this is where I bought mine, service is good and the lowest price I found:

http://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/item.asp?sku=000449357

You can always get a progressive kit for it later, if you feel you need it.

+1
99% of the time they are always cheaper than Midway, and of course it's free shipping over $150, which is even better. Midway is sort of a 1 stop shop where they everything including parts. Good place to order if you have a Huge order. Might want to check out the Hornady presses as well. There giving away free bullets with there presses as well.

[Wulf]

I'd start with a turret press and see where you go from there. The reason I say that is because you can turn out premium ammo with some effort, and you will be forced into taking things slowly. Even moving slowly, you should be able to get a couple hundred rounds in an evening, and that's if you do a lot of optional steps.

Good luck!

That's good advice.... I dont really see any problem with starting with a progressive as long as you start with a simple, forgiving, straight wall caliber like 45, 38, 45-70 etc; that's what I did. If you're all about high pressure necked rifle ammo, I really think the best path is a turret press to make small volumes of inexpensive high quality ammo, and surplus for the high volume blasting....even if its not as cheep as it used to be. Really, the only way I ever see myself using the progressive as a progressive to produce 308 is if I came into a really cheep source for a bunch of once fired brass...cheep enough that I wouldent be compelled by my frugal side to pick it up and reload it again.

[ahead]

That's good advice.... I dont really see any problem with starting with a progressive as long as you start with a simple, forgiving, straight wall caliber like 45, 38, 45-70 etc; that's what I did. If you're all about high pressure necked rifle ammo, I really think the best path is a turret press to make small volumes of inexpensive high quality ammo, and surplus for the high volume blasting....even if its not as cheep as it used to be. Really, the only way I ever see myself using the progressive as a progressive to produce 308 is if I came into a really cheep source for a bunch of once fired brass...cheep enough that I wouldent be compelled by my frugal side to pick it up and reload it again.

my problem is i dont have that many calibers to choose from. ive got a 9mm handgun and a Mosin nagant. is reloading for the nagant any more forgiving? i could start off with the nagant and once i get some experience under my belt i could start reloading for the m1a.

i was under the impression that people started reloading for a few different reasons, and one of those was to make practice ammo cheaper. i did the math using that excel spreadsheet you linked me to, and using components that i found on Midway (which im sure i could find for cheaper if i looked around a bit) it came out to about .23cents a round, which is allot cheaper than im finding plinking ammo for, even in bulk. most is atleast double that. and the only surplus im able to find is indian and paki, and ive heard it sucks so i wont be putting it through my m1a.

i appreciate all the info guys

[eckerph]

Give the Horandy L-n-L progressive press a look, it loads rifle rounds fine. I leave out the powder measure and weigh and drop the charge by hand and seat a bullet and off it goes to the seating die, much quicker than a single stage, and just as accurate, now as far what you need to "start" and what you "need" are a difficult question to answer. Their are the basics such as press,dies scale, loading block,powder funnel, calipers and a manual, this stuff will get you started and is enough for some folks, but from my own experience you will wind up buying more stuff like a case trimmer,tumbler,media sifter etc,etc. I started out with a lee anniversary kit years ago and loaded allot of 06' on that thing, the only extras i bought were the calipers,dies and lee case trimmer, now that being said i would personally stay away from lee products because even though they may be good ideas behind their products, they are made very cheap and work "ok" for a beginner, but as time goes by you start wanting "bigger and better" and lee has no resale value if you out grow your equipment. Dillon is good but $$, i don't like the idea of spending $50 per "caliber conversion", $22 shell plate for the HNH and you're good to go.

heres my equipment:
Hornady lock n load progressive press
Lee dies (their dies are good)
Forster case trimmer
RCBS 505 scale
Caliper
Sierra manual
lee manual
Tumbler
Media sifter for tumbler
loading blocks
Hornady case lube
powder trickler
A set of Lee powder dippers
Ammo cans and lots of them
Rubber maid storage container to keep all this crap in.

[Wulf]

i did the math using that excel spreadsheet you linked me to, and using components that i found on Midway (which im sure i could find for cheaper if i looked around a bit) it came out to about .23cents a round, which is allot cheaper than im finding plinking ammo for, even in bulk. most is atleast double that.

How many loadings of the brass is that? If its once more for once fired brass or twice for new brass and you're willing to completely ignore your time, I say go for it. Just dont hot rod the loads, work in small batchs,be organized and methodical, and take your time.

It would certianly be better off starting with the Nagant since its not a semi it wont beat up the brass as bad, and since you have to close the bolt on each round you'll know if its funky in any way; Plus if you split it open its a cheeper mistake. Of course you probably dont go through enough rounds in it to make reloading worth while, but it would be good training. I'm not trying to put you off reloading for the M1A, but as you can see from that reloading article I linked to, its just not the case that you can just sit there and mindlessly pull the handle generating thousands of rounds of safe, consistent, accurate ammo from mixed brass you scavange at the range.... you can kind of do that for the 45, but not the 308.

[grammaton76]

Personally, I like the once fired brass from http://www.brassworldonline.org/

I swooped up 500 pieces of 6.8SPC recently.

[ahead]

How many loadings of the brass is that? If its once more for once fired brass or twice for new brass and you're willing to completely ignore your time, I say go for it. Just dont hot rod the loads, work in small batchs,be organized and methodical, and take your time.

It would certianly be better off starting with the Nagant since its not a semi it wont beat up the brass as bad, and since you have to close the bolt on each round you'll know if its funky in any way; Plus if you split it open its a cheeper mistake. Of course you probably dont go through enough rounds in it to make reloading worth while, but it would be good training. I'm not trying to put you off reloading for the M1A, but as you can see from that reloading article I linked to, its just not the case that you can just sit there and mindlessly pull the handle generating thousands of rounds of safe, consistent, accurate ammo from mixed brass you scavange at the range.... you can kind of do that for the 45, but not the 308.

from reading the links you posted, and some i found on my own i punched in 4 reloads per case and got that number.

im not looking to pump out a thousand rounds at every sitting, i was thinking more along the lines of once a week i sit down and load 100-200 rounds on my day off. with that amount i should have more than enough to practice with and extra to save.

i dont see the point in reloading for my 9mm, so i will most likely start with the nagant and move up from there. like you said, if for some odd reason i blow it up, it only cost me $85. i will probably order the rock chucker in the next few days along with the dies for my nagant. i appreciate the words of caution Wulf, and all the info from everyone else. much thanks!

[MisterDudeManGuy]

i dont see the point in reloading for my 9mm, so i will most likely start with the nagant and move up from there. like you said, if for some odd reason i blow it up, it only cost me $85.

If you blow up a bolt gun, you'll have more to worry about than $85... Sounds like you are on your way - be safe and read a lot. Use established load data and components to begin with, build up loads slowly, and be safe. Oh yeah, and don't forget to have fun!

And be sure to get an L.E. Wilson cartridge headspace gauge for any caliber you reload. It's like $20, and it's worth its' weight in gold.

[eckerph]

If you blow up a bolt gun, you'll have more to worry about than $85... Sounds like you are on your way - be safe and read a lot. Use established load data and components to begin with, build up loads slowly, and be safe. Oh yeah, and don't forget to have fun!

If you can read and follow directions dont worry about "blowing up" youre gun, just follow the rules outlined in the manuals and pay attention you will be ok. If youre a fool and cant pay attention then yeah you have plenty to worry about.