Is this a good kit for a first time reloader?

[ahead]

http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=566516

I'm not worried about it being confusing, I pick this kind of stuff up pretty quickly. What I'm concerned about is, that this kit does not include some crucial part that imp going to need.

So, my questions to you guys are:

Is this kit any good, would you recommend it to someone who is starting out? Why or why not?

Also, are there any piece/tools that I will be missing (other than ammunition components) if I purchase only this kit/does this kit get me going right out of the box?

Sorry for the long post, and thanks in advance for any info you guys can throw my way!

[C.G.]

You are leaving out some important info; i. e. for what purposes will you be re-loading. If it is for sheer volume then progressive may be fine, if it is for accuracy you may want to stick with a single stage.
I am a reloading noob (started about 3 months ago) and started with a RCBS Rockchucker; if I'll ever think I need to go proggressive I can always add a Piggyback 4 conversion to it.

[tankerman]

Get the RCBS kit, learn to reload. Get a progressive reloader later for volume reloading. You will still use the RCBS single stages work best for working up a load and for hunting ammo(unless its for varmint)

[Fjold]

It will work fine although a progressive is harder to learn on as you have to remember to check at each step all the time instead of having the automatic stopping point that single stage presses have when you change dies.

Buy a scale (balance beam's are less fussy) and most importantly buy at least two reloading manuals. I'd recommend the Hornady manual as one, it has a great "How to" section in front that really explains how everyting works and the safety precautions. The second manual gives you a comparison chart for loads.

Remember that each gun is an individual and will perform differently with the loads listed. Go slow, start at the minimum recommended loads and work up slowly.

[ahead]

ill be reloading mainly for plinking/target shooting. i am going to be reloading for my M1A Socom16, so pin-point accuracy isnt what im after. i'm sure the loads that can be produced with a progressive kit will be accurate enough for my liking.

id like to be able to shoot a few hundred rounds a month, and id like to have some bulk loaded and ready at all times. because of this, and from what ive read on this forum it seems the progressive is the type for me, or am i looking at this all wrong?

and im gonna order that manual right now, what are some other good how-to guides for reloading i can purchase to do my homework before i get my kit?

thanks guys, keep it coming!

[tteng]

I second everyone else. I'm new to reloading, too (3mo). Get a rock-chucker, because it's manual, you get to check/recheck your steps along the way (primer depth, bullet seat depth...) Believe me, first time you do it, you'll be measuring everything twice. Besides, if you load 10rds and made a mistake, you only have to pull 10rds. Right now I only load for my bolt-guns, because it's safer for me to practice reloading & test my load. Until I feel more comfortable w/ it, I'll hold-off reloading for my semi-auto rifle.

[Chaingun]

Get a Dillion and thank me later.

I reload .308 match and single stage my 550B.

I would highly recommand the 650 today which wasn't a choice for me back then.

[Fjold]

OK, set up hints:

Read the reloading manuals front section on safety and "How to", you will appreciate it more the more you get into reloading.

Find someplace out of the way, quiet and comfortable to reload. In the family room with the TV and kids going is not the place.

Measure and check every setting twice before you actually use anything, (powder measure, dies, scales, etc.)

Only have one specific bullet and one can of powder on the reloading bench at any one time. (you do not want to accidently charge your 308 case with pistol powder)

Establish a routine and do the same thing everytime.

Adjust the dies exactly how the manufacturer says. Don't worry about neck sizing, etc. until you get into precision handloading. (Little things like making sure that you don't screw the seating die so far down that it hits the mouth of the cases and bulges the shoulders enough to where the rounds won't chamber, sometimes isn't explained well in the manuals.)

[ahead]

ok so, you guys have convinced me to go with the rock chucker. i started reading reviews about it and it seems like a good choice. i dont need production numbers that are that high, and for the time being will only be reloading .308. and i like the idea that i can upgrade it to a progressive press when i feel thats necessary (even though its the same price as buying a whole new press).

so im looking at this one (http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpag...eitemid=646599), is there anything thats not included in this kit that i will need to purchase to get going? also ive seen some people recommend the hornady lock and load kit. what does this kit do exactly, and will it work with the rock chucker? heres a link to what i think it is (http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpag...eitemid=858110)

thanks for all the info and suggestion guys!

[Wulf]

Well, aside from components, you'll also need a scale, and a caliper, you'll probably also want a case guage, case trimming and prep tools, and a tumbler.

But C.G. is right you really need decide what you're trying to accomplish with your reloading. Quite frankly if you're interested in high volume/low precision 308 shooting, you're probably better off buying and shooting surplus. You have to work REAL HARD at cutting your component costs to load a case of 308 for a price similar to a case of surplus 7.62 and that's before you even consider the time investment or the wear and tear on your back and knees collecting a thousand 308 cases off the ground. I have a perfectly good Dillon progressive mounted on my bench ready to go for 308, and I still buy surplus for semi-auto, <150 yard 308 ammo.

OTOH, if you're interested in producing modest quantities of match or high quality hunting rounds tuned to your rifle you'd be better off with a quality single stage or better yet a quality turret press, with dies selected to produce match quality ammo in the firearm you're using.

OTOH OTOH, if you're interested in producing large quantities of high quality ammo, you'll need a better quality progressive....DILLON!, and lots of case prep/handling equipment aimed towards volume production....and a bigger budget than a couple hundred bucks..... and perhaps a cub scout troop to pick up your brass.




I just read further down where you said its ammo for a SOCOM. In that case you'll definately want to look at the cost of surplus vs handloading. Unless you got an exceptionally well built product from springfield, your gun probably wont shoot better than surplus. It took some tweeking on the gun and a some skill development on my part before I could out shoot the cheep surplus.

[ahead]

Well, aside from components, you'll also need a scale, and a caliper, you'll probably also want a case guage, case trimming and prep tools, and a tumbler.

But C.G. is right you really need decide what you're trying to accomplish with your reloading. Quite frankly if you're interested in high volume/low precision 308 shooting, you're probably better off buying and shooting surplus. You have to work REAL HARD at cutting your component costs to load a case of 308 for a price similar to a case of surplus 7.62 and that's before you even consider the time investment or the wear and tear on your back and knees collecting a thousand 308 cases off the ground. I have a perfectly good Dillon progressive mounted on my bench ready to go for 308, and I still buy surplus for semi-auto, <150 yard 308 ammo.

OTOH, if you're interested in producing modest quantities of match or high quality hunting rounds tuned to your rifle you'd be better off with a quality single stage or better yet a quality turret press, with dies selected to produce match quality ammo in the firearm you're using.

OTOH OTOH, if you're interested in producing large quantities of high quality ammo, you'll need a better quality progressive....DILLON!, and lots of case prep/handling equipment aimed towards volume production....and a bigger budget than a couple hundred bucks..... and perhaps a cub scout troop to pick up your brass.




I just read further down where you said its ammo for a SOCOM. In that case you'll definately want to look at the cost of surplus vs handloading. Unless you got an exceptionally well built product from springfield, your gun probably wont shoot better than surplus. It took some tweeking on the gun and a some skill development on my part before I could out shoot the cheep surplus.

theres not much surplus left on the market, ive been on the lookout for a few weeks now and all i can find is the paki stuff that everyone says to stay away from. i realize my socom isnt the most accurate .308 rifle out there, but i doubt its as bad as your making it out to be.

i wanna start reloading for a few different reasons:

1. its something that i think i will enjoy doing
2. itll save me some money
3. its a good skill/tool to have IMO

and again im not looking for high volume/low precision ammo, im looking for something in between. i know my rifle isnt a tack driver, and that doesnt bother me, i bought this rifle for the same reason most people buy 16" rifles, fun to shoot and easy to manuver. so ill be happy with good (not amazing) ammo that i assume i can produce with this kit.

basically its gonna be for fun, to make practice ammo more affordable and to make some higher quality ammo that ill store for the "just in case scenarios"

[Fjold]

I like turret presses,

To start right now, you need:

Reloading manuals
Press
Powder measure
Scale
Powder funnel
Dies and shell holders
Case lube
Some kind of loading block to hold the cases while loading
bullets, powder, primers

You'll need after a couple of reloads:
Case trimmer
Caliper (measuring case lengths)
Chamfering and deburring tool
Primer pocket cleaner/uniformer
Case cleaner (tumbler or vibratory cleaner)

Nice to have items
Caliper, dial indicator
Hand primer (speeds up the reloading cycle, let's you feel primer seating)
Chronograph (great for uniforming loads and calculating ballistic performance)

[ahead]

I like turret presses,

To start right now, you need:

Reloading manuals
Press
Powder measure
Scale
Powder funnel
Dies and shell holders
Case lube
Some kind of loading block to hold the cases while loading
bullets, powder, primers

You'll need after a couple of reloads:
Case trimmer
Caliper (measuring case lengths)
Chamfering and deburring tool
Primer pocket cleaner/uniformer
Case cleaner (tumbler or vibratory cleaner)

Nice to have items
Caliper, dial indicator
Hand primer (speeds up the reloading cycle, let's you feel primer seating)
Chronograph (great for uniforming loads and calculating ballistic performance)

[Wulf]

theres not much surplus left on the market,

basically its gonna be for fun, to make practice ammo more affordable and to make some higher quality ammo that ill store for the "just in case scenarios"

The surplus comes and goes. You just have to stock up when its available. Bookmark this page. http://rifle-company.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php?t=431 It tracks surplus price and availablility closley.

If your Springifled is average it will probably shoot into 3-4 inches at a hundred yards... Maybe a little more with surplus and a little less with good quality ammo, but even match ammo wont cure it.

This thread... http://glocktalk.com/showthread.php?...=&pagenumber=1
has a link to a reloading cost calculator that will help you figure out what your cost per round will actually be. Good to check the numbers. Reloading for the fun of it is a fine thing. But its always nice to temper it with a little reality. Reloading for a semi auto rifle is definately the deep end of the reloading pool, since the M1A has a reputation for being hard on brass and you're dealing with an expensive gun running at high pressures. There's lots of stuff to get down before you start risking that expensive gun.

Based on what you say you're goals are WRT to reloading I'd suggest you pick up a Dillon 550b and start reloading pistol cartridges and work your way up to feeding the springfield.

[Fjold]

It looks like they have everything you need except the cartridge specific stuff. You will need the 308 Win dies and the shellholder for the 308 Win. I think the RCBS shellholder for the 308 is the No. 2 size but check their chart. All the companies that make shellholders use different size numbers so don't look on the Lee chart and order a RCBS shellholder.

I would buy a second shellholder in the same size (They're a couple of bucks each) that way you can just leave it in your priming tool and not switch back and forth.

The 308 takes large rifle primers so you want to use the large primer plug in the priming tool. Also the uniflow powder measure has a large and small drums for different powder charge adjustments. You want to use the larger one there also.

I can't emphasize this enough. READ THE MANUAL FIRST