how to reload

[ar15barrels]

Also whom makes the most accurate manual Powder Measurer?

Harrels.

Accuracy comes with the experience of the user though.
No powder measure is going to be accurate when bad techniques are used.

[seabee1]

I also started with .45 ACP, probably 8 years ago. a coworker sold me a Lee starter kit, the main component being a single stage press, and a Lee reloading book. I spent the next few years off and on teaching myself and collecting reloading gear. This place really helped me a lot http://www.lmcammo.com/

I took it all real seriously, and wanted to learn on the .45 round then graduate to others, which I have, to some degree. It takes a lot more time and work to do shouldered cartridges for rifles.

There are quite a few things you are gonna need. So far I've collected die sets for .45, 9mm, .38/357, .30 Carbine, 5.56mm/223, 7.62/.308, 30.06. I have a tumbler, case gauges, scale(s), case trimmer, de-crimper die, tons of ammo boxes/cookie tins/plastic pretzel barrels. case holders for the reloading bench. Powders and primers too!

when you reload, leave your phone on DND. Read read read!!!

Good luck

[rhodesengr]

Also whom makes the most accurate manual Powder Measurer?

When you think about manual powder measures, what you want is consistency because the manual ones don't weight anything. You set a drop volume and then, measure a bunch of drops on a scale. To determine "accuracy" you need an accurate scale.

I looked into this aspect too when I first got started a couple of years ago. There is a common principle that can be summarized as "buy cheap, buy twice". That said, I ended up buying the relatively lower cost Lee Perfect Deluxe Powder measure and it turned out to be pretty consistent. The other one talked about a lot is the one by Redding. It also depends on whether you are loading small charge weights like 5gr or less. Lee and Redding both do reasonably well with small charge weights.

You can also just use a manual trickler and scale. Since a Hornady manual trickler is only about $12, this could be my lowest cost "manual" powder measure method with high accuracy. This method will be as accurate and consistent as your scale and patience to slowly trickle. A few months back, I was working up a powerful home defense buckshot load. Since i was sending loads off for testing, I wanted as accurate as I could get without buying an $400 electronic powder measure. So I used the trickler method. I only do about 10 of these at a time so its not a big deal to use this method. I wanted to get 28gr of Longshot. I used a Lee Spoon to get 26 to 27 grains and then trickled up to 28.

[AdamVIP]

I started with a Dillion and envisioning just churning out ammo. What I ultimately decided for me after reloading for a few years is that its probably best to single stage it but using a single stage press with quick swap. I think the best grow with you beginner press is something like the Forster Co-ax. You get the ability to be thorough with a single stage and have quick swap dies that are able to be preset for lengths for less fiddlyness. Plus even if you get a progressive later you can use it as a partner press.

[stevosmith]

Thanks, that is true, consistency using a power measurer which I don't have yet. And true, as a beginner, use a power measurer to be slightly less then use a trickler on a beam scale.

[divingin]

RCBS 9460 Auto Priming Tool <--- is this a good primer tool I should buy?

I have one. It works OK; certainly as advertised. I only use it if priming over 100 cases at a time (and generally only for rifle.) Pistol stuff gets primed on the press, and smaller batches of rifle brass gets done with an RCBS Universal hand primer.

I have mine mounted on a piece of plywood; it gets clamped to the bench when in use. Takes up quite a bit of usable bench space if mounted and idle.

IMO a really good resource is a knowledgeable and experienced shooting buddy. Gives you the opportunity to say "Hey I did this, and I'm not sure it's correct" or "I'm having problems with this" and get actual feedback. Most experienced shooters are willing to help.

[Cowboy T]

When you think about manual powder measures, what you want is consistency because the manual ones don't weight anything. You set a drop volume and then, measure a bunch of drops on a scale. To determine "accuracy" you need an accurate scale.

I looked into this aspect too when I first got started a couple of years ago. There is a common principle that can be summarized as "buy cheap, buy twice". That said, I ended up buying the relatively lower cost Lee Perfect Deluxe Powder measure and it turned out to be pretty consistent. The other one talked about a lot is the one by Redding. It also depends on whether you are loading small charge weights like 5gr or less. Lee and Redding both do reasonably well with small charge weights.

Lee's Pro Auto-Disk Powder Measure is also, I've discovered, quite consistent, be it with small or large charge weights. My lightest charge weight is currently 3.9gr of Bullseye powder, used in our light .38 Special loading with a 105gr cast bullet.

The Perfect Powder Measure is also rather consistent.

Dillon's powder measure as included with their XL650 press is likewise pretty good, about as consistent as the Pro Auto-Disk Powder Measure, so you'll be fine with Dillon's as well.

[stilly]

This is solid advice, Brain is a wealth of knowledge and can set you up right there.

I take exception to this.

Without my knowing, my sister went to his shop and he loaded her up with a Dillon XL-650 in 9mm and who knows what else.

I did not find out about this until after she bought the setup and I told her multiple times that she had no business using it until she learned about reloading first. Well, she made about 200 rounds and somewhere in there, they started being bad. She had to have the guy at the range pound em out of her guns with a mallet and a Dowel rod.

She has not touched it since and this was about 4 or so years ago. I told her she needed to learn to crawl and then walk before she ran.

Now she is afraid of making bad ammo. So, when it comes to ol' Brian there at the shop, he is a salesman first and is there to move product.

This is yet another reason why I always tell folks to start with a slower press, the fastest you want is a Lee Classic Cast. The slower presses are not very expensive (compared to what she got anyways) and they usually have utility value besides loading ammo. 9 and 45 are go fast ammos. They are best made in go fast presses, but the safest/fastest is the LCC in my opinion.

Just sayin...

[BIGOX]

I've been into Brian's shop more than any other reloading suppliers and even most gun shops. In all honesty he has only tried to sell me on one item and secretly I wanted it but didn't want him knowing that (I'm weird that way). So he made me an offer I couldn't refuse and I happily accepted. Honestly I've never seen him try to up sell one single thing. I have over heard people whom seem very educated on reloading but turns out they were only educated in a brand name. When people come in asking for the best, he will point you in the right direction dose not matter if it's brass, dies or a press. It's unfortunate when people have buyers remorse but I'm more than positive Brian would have offered support but it's up to the individual to ask.

[stevosmith]

Guys, what's the purpose for the one's that needs to purchase this part?

Lyman Stuck Case Remover

I mean what would make a case stuck in the die to need this?

[BIGOX]

Guys, what's the purpose for the one's that needs to purchase this part?

Lyman Stuck Case Remover

I mean what would make a case stuck in the die to need this?

Improper or not enough lube can cause a stuck case and it can be a big pain to remove

[Flouncer]

Don't be web nobbed out of a Lee Single stage press or their kit. Lee removed about half the useless bulk and the price on the single stage press and did more to advance the reloading sport than the others combined. Same with their turret press. Their dies are as good as any for loading your 9x19 and 45 ACP. I say this as you can get into it for $200 instead of over $1K and ammo that is just as good as anything. If you have the $$$ and appreciate having the best that you can get, go with Dillon and RCBS.

[Canucky]

Guys, what's the purpose for the one's that needs to purchase this part?

Lyman Stuck Case Remover

I mean what would make a case stuck in the die to need this?

YouTube has many instructional vids on removing stuck cases. Good luck on your foray into reloading.

[bigbossman]

YouTube has many instructional vids on removing stuck cases. Good luck on your foray into reloading.

Yes, and that tool is pretty easy to make with a long socket/pipe nipple, a 1/4-20 bolt, washer, and 1/4-20 tap.

[GunslingerGuruDan]

When it comes to hand loaders versus auto loaders, there are some differences to consider. Hand loaders, or single-stage presses, offer meticulous control over each step of the reloading process. This precision makes them popular among precision shooters and those who prioritize attention to detail. On the other hand, auto loaders, also known as progressive presses, automate multiple stages simultaneously, increasing production speed. While they may sacrifice some precision, they're great for high-volume reloading.

In terms of avoiding duds or dangerous situations, both hand loaders and auto loaders can produce reliable ammunition if used correctly. Precision and safety depend more on the skills and carefulness of the reloader rather than the type of equipment used. So, make sure to follow reloading manuals meticulously, double-check measurements, and inspect each round for defects.


Remember, reloading ammunition requires knowledge, attention to detail, and strict adherence to safety procedures. So, take the time to learn the process thoroughly, consult reloading manuals, and seek advice from experienced reloaders. Also, never forget to prioritize safety by wearing appropriate protective gear and following recommended safety practices. Happy reloading!