What I do is to first de-prime with a Lee Automatic Case primer. I have the collator. It moves very fast once adjusted to the case height. Then I clean the brass in either wet pins or a large ultrasonic cleaner. I could also prime with the Lee, but I leave it set-up to de-prime as priming on the Dillion works OK. With the Lee, the only thing that screws it up is if I have a 40 SW mixed in with 9mm and if any of the 9 is Norma brass that stops the process. I really hate Norma brass. I have also used it to de-prime a large batch of 308.
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Automatic or semi-auto Primer Decapper recommendation
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Regarding better or more versatile - not really.very interesting about the dynamics and differences of the 750 vs 1050. does that mean .......possibly, that the 750 is better or more versitile since it utilizes both the "push" and the "pull"?
regarding neck expansion. is this for just pistol or is it recommended for rifle as well?
They designed the smaller versions like that to eliminate the need for another station/hole in the tool head. Also easier to feel priming when done by itself.
Another good thing about the 1050 is one can adjust the primer seating depth. not an option on the 550/650/750.
Being able to swage primer pockets is pretty cool. I have about 20K once fired military 9mm I bought long ago, and the 1050 would make easy work them. Same thing for the 5.56 as Randall noted.
There are devices to enable primer pocket swaging on a 650/750. A company in Az makes a part that replaces the primer slide. Has to be a separate cycle through the machine though.There are some people that it's just not worth engaging.
It's a muzzle BRAKE, not a muzzle break. Or is your muzzle tired?Comment
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