Reloading Rifle Rounds

[Joey513pressnell]

I got into reloading about a year ago, and have reloaded a few different pistol rounds, but now i am wanting to start reloading my rifle rounds. Is there any major differences? I can't imagine there will be, but thought i would check with you all just to see if you know of anything i might run into. What powder do you guy like for rifle loads?

I'll be reloading 30-06 for a Marlin XL7. Any suggestions on what grain and load for this rifle specifically would be appretiated.

[five.five-six]

Necked cartridges tend to be more finicky. You should read the first 100 or so pages of a published reloading manual.

[JackEllis]

Necked cartridges tend to be more finicky. You should read the first 100 or so pages of a published reloading manual.

Agreed. What kind of shooting are you planning to do: hunting, long range, targets, ...? Once you've read the reloading manual that kind of information will help us point you in the right direction.

[Howitzer1987]

[Rusty Scabbard]

Rifle brass stretches. Check length every firing and trim as needed.
If you're reloading for a bolt rifle, neck sizing works well. For better brass life and to avoid eventual chambering issues, using a full length die to bump the shoulder back by 0.002" works.
If you reload for a semi auto, full length size every time.
Look for case stretching and cracking. Brass can last 3X - 20X depending on load, brass and resizing methods. Failure is usually case mouth cracking, or crack and separation near the base due to stretching.
Rifle brass needs case lube to form. It may not have been necessary for pistol reloading with carbide dies.
Definitely read the loading books and decide what you're loading for- long range target shooting, hunting, practice ammo... That'll determine the powder and projectile choices.

[ar15barrels]

I got into reloading about a year ago, and have reloaded a few different pistol rounds, but now i am wanting to start reloading my rifle rounds.
Is there any major differences?
I can't imagine there will be, but thought i would check with you all just to see if you know of anything i might run into.
What powder do you guy like for rifle loads?

I'll be reloading 30-06 for a Marlin XL7.
Any suggestions on what grain and load for this rifle specifically would be appretiated.

The major difference between pistol and rifle reloading is dealing with shouldered cases.
You have probably not had any problems adjusting dies to this point because most handgun cases headspace on either the case mouth (380/9/40/45acp) or the rim of the case(38/357/41/44/45colt).
Neither of those are effected by die adjustment.

Measuring your fired case shoulder location and adjusting the sizing die to push the shoulder back around 0.002" is the biggest challenge to most people starting out reloading rifle cases.

IMR4895 is a great powder for 30-06.
Any load manual will give you the charge weight according to the bullet weight you want to load.

[divingin]

Measuring your fired case shoulder location and adjusting the sizing die to push the shoulder back around 0.002" is the biggest challenge to move people starting out reloading rifle cases.

To expand on Randall's comment:

Pushing the shoulder back more can cause case head separation (the case stretches to fill the chamber on firing, causing thin spots in the case just above the web that ultimately fail. This can happen in one firing, or may take a few.) That can release the chamber pressure through the back of the action, where you happen to be.

Not pushing it back enough will cause the case to not fit the chamber (bolt or action won't close.)

[Divernhunter]

If you want to drive down to the Modesto area I would be willing to walk you thru all steps that are needed and some not required for loading rifle rounds.
I could help you set up your dies if you bring your press/rifle or even just the press.
You do not need to crimp the round.
If you are not sure what to buy I can give you some pointers and you can test drive my equipment.
I have been doing this for many years.

[fguffey]

Pushing the shoulder back more can cause case head separation (the case stretches to fill the chamber on firing, causing thin spots in the case just above the web that ultimately fail. This can happen in one firing, or may take a few.)

I chambered a round, and then closed the bolt then pulled the trigger. The round I chambered was .127" shorter from the shoulder of the case to the case head than the chamber; meaning, the chamber was .127" longer than the case when measured from the shoulder of the chamber to the bolt face.

And then I ejected the case, after I examined the case I decided my case did not stretch, that case got shorter. So I chambered another round, aimed and pulled the trigger, same thing; the case did not stretch between the case head and case body.

Another rifle, I chambered a minimum length/full length round into 'another rifle; I pulled the trigger. the case got longer from the shoulder of the case to the case head by .016". The case got shorter from the end of the neck to the case head; anyhow the case did not stretch.

F. Guffey

[MongooseV8]

Put down the coffee youve had way too much caffeine.

[hambam105]

Pistol reloading is High School. Reloading for rifle is College.

[fguffey]

Pushing the shoulder back more can cause case head separation (the case stretches to fill the chamber on firing, causing thin spots in the case just above the web that ultimately fail. This can happen in one firing, or may take a few.) That can release the chamber pressure through the back of the action, where you happen to be.

Not pushing it back enough will cause the case to not fit the chamber (bolt or action won't close.)

Put down the coffee you've had way too much caffeine.

MongooseV8, I have ask ever reloader to explain how is it possible to move the shoulder back?

I said I chambered a round in one of my rifles that had .127" clearance, I said I pulled the trigger, after firing I ejected the fired case. While the case was laying on the ground before I picked it up I knew the case did not stretch, I knew the case got shorter.

I also said I chambered a minimum length/full length sized case in a chamber that was field reject length from the shoulder to the bolt face; same thing, the case did not stretch. How did I know? I knew when I ejected the case the neck was shorter. I do not sweat that stuff because the case got longer from the shoulder to the case head.

I could ask you how that effected trimming the length of the case but I know I would be wasting my time because you do not know. What would I do? I would add .014" to the length of the case. And then there is another 'why?'

F. Guffey

[divingin]

MongooseV8, I have ask ever reloader to explain how is it possible to move the shoulder back?

Yes, we know that you define moving the shoulder as reforming the shoulder, and won't accept that reloaders understand what we're talking about either way. We know, but don't care.

Likewise, you can depress a gas pedal or an accelerator, put the pedal to the metal, step on the gas, or simply step on or hit "it". In any case, the motor speeds up, and if you ask, normal people know what you're talking about. Maybe you won't but normal people do.

[fguffey]

divingin, I can explain to you why it is impossible to move the shoulder back; that is because you can not explain how you move the shoulder back.

Yes, we know that you define moving the shoulder as reforming the shoulder, and won't accept that reloaders understand what we're talking about either way. We know, but don't care.

You are assuming the reloader knows what he is talking about, I am the one that knows he does not. I have tried to get reloaders to back away from the key board, I have suggested the reloader remove their hands from their pockets, I have suggested methods and techniques that can be used to determine if the shoulder moves back or can be moved back; big problem, reloaders have too much time invested in being wrong.

and if you ask, normal people know what you're talking about. Maybe you won't but normal people do.

So you do not have a clue.

F. Guffey

[Cowboy T]

OP, those who have suggested that you read a reloading manual or two are 100% correct. Indeed, do more than read them; study them.

If you're starting out rifle reloading with the .30-06, well, you picked a really good cartridge to start with. There are probably more data for the .30-06 than any other cartridge out there, given the cartridge's long life and amazing flexibility.

To start, since you're using a bolt gun, I'd suggest a 150gr bullet with the starting level charge of H414 and then work up to get the load showing the best precision on-target. Any of the "4895" powders, e. g. IMR4895 as Randall suggested, are also very good.

Learn to reload those well, then by all means experiment with bullet weights and different powders, depending on your desired type of shooting.