Been reloading for about 2 years. I had loaded several batches (100 per batch) of 38 Special using Silhouette, Win primers, and 148 grain plated wadcutters. The last batch had a squib, and stuck in the barrel of the Manurhin, about 1.5-2" in the barrel. There was unburnt (I think!) powder sprinkled in the barrel behind the squib, and it was a light yellow color. I'm weigh each 5th round after getting the powder feeder set, and before putting the bullets in, I use a flashlight to check for visual uniformity inside the cases. I have no idea what caused this squib, and because of the "off" color of the powder, I'm wondering if it was a failure of the primer. What say the masses?
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Question re: 38 special squib.
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Question re: 38 special squib.
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WTB: , TLR-7A or 8A, Smith K22, Colt Officer's Model Revolver in 22LR, , Manurhin MR73, Lever gun in 44 Mag, ZKR 551, and CZ 453 22LR
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The Lee manual, 2nd edition shows 4.4 to 4.9, and I was using 4.5. I had done a ladder test with the before the first batch, and even though there was no problem with 4.4, I settle on 4.5. I got the data from the latest Lee reloading manual, Berry's website, and the Ramshot website. It's been good for about 500 or more rounds. Just that one lone squib, aside from one other when I first started, and I wasn't triple checking the charges! That first squib was probably no charge. The Western powder folks said start at 4.5, as I phoned them and asked that question.OLD iTrader Rating: iTrader Rating Here (click)
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WTB: , TLR-7A or 8A, Smith K22, Colt Officer's Model Revolver in 22LR, , Manurhin MR73, Lever gun in 44 Mag, ZKR 551, and CZ 453 22LR
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The primer did its job but did not ignite the powder. It happens in .38 specials the most from my experience. Large case and small powder charge laying at the bottom of the case...? Wooden dowel and a small hammer will fix your issue. Then keep shooting! Not your fault if using standard load data.Originally posted by smashycrashyDamn, you are right, I suckOriginally posted by OleCussI despise Trump.Comment
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My shooting buddy and I tried a 1/4" brass rod at the range, but that sucker was in there tight. I ordered a 5/16" rod, cut a piece off and "pounded" it out at home. I also put some Rem Oil in front of, and behind the squib and let it sit for about 20 minutes before beating on it. The larger rod was a much better fit.The primer did its job but did not ignite the powder. It happens in .38 specials the most from my experience. Large case and small powder charge laying at the bottom of the case...? Wooden dowel and a small hammer will fix your issue. Then keep shooting! Not your fault if using standard load data.
Are you thinking that the light load, about half a case full, was laying mostly towards the bullet? AND, why did the powder turn yellow?OLD iTrader Rating: iTrader Rating Here (click)
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WTB: , TLR-7A or 8A, Smith K22, Colt Officer's Model Revolver in 22LR, , Manurhin MR73, Lever gun in 44 Mag, ZKR 551, and CZ 453 22LR
Lifetime Member NRA
Member CRPAComment
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Warm and windy. Were you using the H110 for .357?OLD iTrader Rating: iTrader Rating Here (click)
???
WTB: , TLR-7A or 8A, Smith K22, Colt Officer's Model Revolver in 22LR, , Manurhin MR73, Lever gun in 44 Mag, ZKR 551, and CZ 453 22LR
Lifetime Member NRA
Member CRPAComment
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I like using Trail Boss for some loads to fill case better.My shooting buddy and I tried a 1/4" brass rod at the range, but that sucker was in there tight. I ordered a 5/16" rod, cut a piece off and "pounded" it out at home. I also put some Rem Oil in front of, and behind the squib and let it sit for about 20 minutes before beating on it. The larger rod was a much better fit.
Are you thinking that the light load, about half a case full, was laying mostly towards the bullet? AND, why did the powder turn yellow?
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Don't know how position sensitive "Silhouette" powder is, but, this seems like a weak primer ignition just didn't have enough flash to burn the powder properly.Comment
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