Brass brand. Does it matter?

[MEGSDAD]

So, I'm going to be picking up a .45ACP 1911. Going to eventually reload for it. Going to run at least 200 rounds of factory ammo for break in and to have brass to reload.Thinking of either Remington PMC or Winchester white box. For reloading .45 does brand really matter?
Primary use will be a range toy/HD.
Thanks.

[Exdc]

If you're just shooting for self defense groups, I don't think it does. That's my experience with 9mm. If you have issues with a brand, or you're shooting a target pistol, it might. Best of luck!


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[rcslotcar]

I've shot thousands of 45acp that I reloaded. As long as the cases are made from brass it has not made a difference. Just separate small primer from large primer before starting.

[Paseclipse]

[Divernhunter]

For me the brand has not mattered. The difference between the small and lage primer brass has. Especially since I load on a Dillon 650 and no longer hand prime the brass. Not hard but you need to separate the large and small primer brass before priming even if by hand.

[hermosabeach]

Match rifles- yes

Handguns- not really a concern.

[trackcage]

Depending on what other calibers you plan to reload for, small primer brass actually isn't a bad thing. That way you can leave the press set up for all your small primer needs instead of switching over. Of course, you'll still need to separate large and small when sorting brass, which is a pain.

But no, generally speaking brass brand does not matter

[baih777]

^^^^^^^^^this

['ol shooter]

Been loading and shooting used pistol brass for many years, some I bought and some is range pickup. It lasts a long time, no matter the brand, 9mm and .45acp is easy on brass.
If I were starting out right now I would buy the once fired police range brass that member Sankor is selling.
It is all Winchester, good brass. He wet tumbles it so all you have to do is knock the primers out and process.
I have bought several thousand of his .223 and it's good quality with only a few bad cases in the mix.
I do use new Starline pistol and revolver brass for defensive loads, just my preference to have virgin brass for what I would stake my life on.

[XDJYo]

[Inkman]

WCC and some others have crimped primer pockets. PITB. Buying factory Federal, Winchester, Aguila, S&B will all be fine unless you pick up Federal NT (small primer pockets) or Blazer which i think these days are all or mostly SPP.

Point on the crimped primer pockets. They're not consistent at all. Some will prime just fine and you'd never know they were crimped. Others may need a little extra force. Then there are some that simply won't accept a primer unless you swage them, which is fine and easy on a 1050 but doing it offline isn't worth the time. I've got to the point where i just toss em.

Al

[jameshenry]

If you go to a "no pick up" range, load up some aluminum cases.

[Revoman]

I have found that it does at times matter. For instance if you happen to get some bullets that are just undersized and the brass is thin wall (the perfect storm), the bullet will slide down inside the case without much pressure from the press or you finger.
I use all one manufacturer brass all the time. I trim my pistol cases to the same length, not many do, most here will tell you that it's just not necessary. I think that it is.
Bottom line, when I'm at the range and a shot goes awry, I want to know that it was me and not the ammunition, so I make the ammunition as good as I can get it, using methods I believe consider that accuracy. Then make MY adjustments at the target.

[tonyjr]

It does not seem to matter .
I have found the silver cases do split more .
Small pistol primers [ SPP ] and large pistol primers [ LPP ] CAN
cause trouble unless you hand deprime and reprime .
Buy a few plastic ammo boxes to store cases in .

[mjmagee67]

Pistol rounds.....naw brass doesn't matter much. Everyone has there pet brass and their hated brass. Me my favorite brass in free brass.

I would agree that nickel cases do split quicker.....but I still use it.