Processing bought range brass

[hambam105]

Separate ~100 cases by headstamp.
Full length resize and deprime only.
Then measure.
Write down what headstamp was how long.

.380acp and .32acp can be a real pain, but it is worth it.
Single stage press, standard primers, fast powder.
A quality bullet, real FMJs preferred.
No plated bullets.
Most all steel .380s & 32s pistols are real strong so you don't have to use wimp loads.

[ar15barrels]

The long and the short of them

Are these cases deprimed before you measured them?

Measuring like you are showing will INCLUDE any length of fired primer that is sticking out of the primer pocket.

[bob.dakeelstripe]

Are these cases deprimed before you measured them?

Measuring like you are showing will INCLUDE any length of fired primer that is sticking out of the primer pocket.

Deprimed and resized

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[mjmagee67]

I don't think I have ever measured a piece of straight walled pistol brass, and I've probably loaded over 50K. Load and go....

[arrowshooter]

So I would setup your expander die to slightly favor the shorter brass and go. I would also use a separate taper crimp die setup right between the short and long cases.

I have had a similar issue with 9mm, but the "wrinkling" was caused by the case not being pushed completely into the case holder.

[Sailormilan2]

I will assume that the brass is mixed brand. If that is the case, have you measured the brands to see if the brass length of a specific manufacturer is relatively consistent? If there is consistency, then sort the brass by head stamp. That way you can deal with issues in a batch, rather than one at a time.

[tonyjr]

hambam105
I don't shoot or even pick up steel cases .
steel cases are harder than brass ones . Take a steel case and rub / scratch
a brass one .
I see to many stuck steel at range - yes a couple of seconds and they generally come out with cycling .

[bob.dakeelstripe]

I will assume that the brass is mixed brand. If that is the case, have you measured the brands to see if the brass length of a specific manufacturer is relatively consistent? If there is consistency, then sort the brass by head stamp. That way you can deal with issues in a batch, rather than one at a time.

Pretty much what i have done was hoping there was a smarter way.

.380 case marking are hard to read its just faster to make a pile of similar lengths couple thousands +- and re set the dies for each batch.

Or i could trim them once and just load and go next time around.

Yea yea yea i know ya don't need to trim pistol brass But it looks like this bag might be the exception.

.40 9mm and .45 have been zero issues because its all my brass Fedral and win only.

If i were to trim them which brand is the fastest/easyest

.380 is so expensive i plan to load a lot.

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[tonyjr]

Pistol brass generally does not need trimming .
People that say it does not either buy unfired cases , have a very good
barrel , and / or don't load " hot " .
My 25 ACP , 32 ACP and some 9 mm are loaded hot for hiking / snakes .
For range - pretty close to minimun load .
I don't bother keeping the cases from range different from hot ones - just
takes up too much room and I would rather check every case [ lots of range
brass ]
Most of you don't have the amount help I do [ 6 nephews - 2 nieces ] and
between us there are 15 calibers

[robert101]

I have to agree that, I don't trim pistol brass either. If it fits in your chamber then why trim? I don't crimp semi-auto brass but simply remove the bell to spec and fit my chamber as well.

The .380 is more sensitive to measurements than the 45 Automatic but it is very manageable. I have trimmed 44 Magnum brass for hot loads that were to be crimped into a cannelure. I say no need to trimming otherwise.

Yes, I do trim and anneal my rifle brass as needed but not pistol brass.