All this discussion about removing live primers from the steel cases that you have, are they berdan primers or boxer? Berdan will be hard on a decap pin...
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Primer disposal
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My reasons for doing this isn't relevant to the thread topic. Basically, I'm a tinkerer and my time is my own to waste. I am saying this lightheartedly.
Yesterday it dawned on me that these are most likely Berdan primers so saving the primers is out.
Being a tikerer, maybe I'll make something from the primed steel cases to troll porch pirates. Or do the oil soak.
Thanks for the information here.
Now to thread-jack my own thread as to why I asked about live primers (see, I'm willing to satisfy others' curiosity).
I have an undisclosed quantity (lol) of Tula steel case, non-corrosive, FMJ & soft point, mostly soft point. I also have some brass Remington, but not a lot.
So, what's the biggest negative to Commie ammo? Inconsistent powder charge weights, steel cases, & Berdan primers.
So I'll shoot the more accurate Remington stuff. Then I'll pull the bullets and weigh the powder to find the consistent powder charge. Then reload the spent Remington brass. It's reusing rather than buying more. If I can reuse the primers too then all the better. If not, watch out porch pirates (and everyone else on April Fools Day).
Some may think it's a waste of time. It's my time to waste. I think football is stupid and watching it is even more stupid, but it's your time to do with as you please.
Thank you everyone on the information. Keep life fun, laugh more.
Sent from my SM-N910V using TapatalkComment
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I am reading this thread because I have tried to kill
primers in past .
Shooting them was all that worked for me .
I reload and don't pick up steel cases .
Picking up range brass - The only time I / my nieces /
nephews buy new brass is when one of us buys a new /
different caliber gun .
I have had too many problems with primers , so now I /
we hand prime .
Primers are cheap enough that if they hit the floor , they
don't go into a case .
My / our time is worth more than the cost of an unknown primer [ I have had so many problems with primers that
all I use are CCI primers ]life member - CRPA and NRA
All ways listen - after you can say I new thatComment
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Well, just because it's a "long established method" doesn't mean it is a 100% reliable method. In fact, it is not. The ONLY 100% RELIABLE method is to detonate them. I know several people who are either in the industry or otherwise highly qualified to runs true scientific tests (which they have done) and they all have had primers detonate after being soaked in water, WD40, vegetable oil and just about every other type of oil you can think of and then allowed to dry.Impractical to neutralize them?? Really.... LOL
The long established method to neutralize primers is to just put a drop of vegetable oil in each case, or pop them all out and drop them in a container with a little oil - the vegetable oil soaks into the priming compound and renders them dead for good. Using water is only a temporary solution because when it evaporates and the priming compound completely dries out, it can get active again.
Come hang out on CastBoolits forum for everything you ever want to know about reloading...NRA Certified Pistol, Rifle, Shotgun and Metallic Cartridge Reloading Instructor
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KM6WLVComment
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Why not just leave the primer in the case and use them for something else? I'm not entirely sure about this, but I believe you can reload a steel case, and if not fired they won't need a resize right?
Something goofy like a wax bullet and primer only charge, or just a cheap low velocity powdercoated bullet and a different powder?Comment
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Berdan primer, unknown powder, re-stuff components into brass case with boxer primer = dumbarseidea.
Where'd you get the idea that Tula ammo has some large variance in charge weight and that alone would significantly improve accuracy?Palestine is a fake country
No Mas Hamas
#BlackolivesmatterComment
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I read it on the internet, lol.
Sent from my SM-N910V using TapatalkComment
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Provided that the powder and bullet come from the same ammo lot, then that should not be an issue.
I did this years ago with the early 50s Yugo-surplus 8mm. The cases were brittle and would get an occasional gas vent.
So I pulled the bullets, measured the powder charge and checked if the powder is the same for the lot (all were). Reloaded with PPU brass with Fed 210.
A lot of work but it shot/grouped better than the surplus
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When I first started reloading back in the 80's I soaked several 38spl cases in WD40 for a month and then let them dry out before firing the empty cases in my revolver...and they all went Bang. So as some have noted soaking primers in WD10 does not always (at all?) make them inert.Comment
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So that's the answer.When I first started reloading back in the 80's I soaked several 38spl cases in WD40 for a month and then let them dry out before firing the empty cases in my revolver...and they all went Bang. So as some have noted soaking primers in WD10 does not always (at all?) make them inert.
Take them to the range, chamber them, and then fire them.
All it will make is a loud pop. People will just think you're shooting a .22 and missing your target lol.sigpicComment
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